Sure it doesn't look quite as romantic when trying to storm-off on your Harley-Davidson in a fury as it did in the days of stomping down on a kickstarter. Truth of the matter is that the electric start has found a valuable and permanent place within the halls of motorcycling. The downside of course to the convenience of push-button starting is that like anything that requires a battery, life is finite and the day of replacement is inevitable.
The good news for Harley-Davidson riders everywhere is that the
process of battery replacement is a relatively simple one. In this
article, we'll break it down into steps so easily digestible that even
the grandest of procrastinators should be inspired. Without further ado:
Step 1: Check your Current Battery
Just like with automobiles, lawnmowers, and your kid's Gameboy, not all motorcycles take the same battery. Differences between physical dimensions, charging time, and cold cranking amps result in a wide variety of choices. The best way to ensure that you're going to replace the dead battery with the proper unit is to take a look at the battery itself. Write down the brand and code number before beginning your search. Many online sites and physical stores offer conversion tables that will allow for the equivalent battery from a different manufacturer. If in doubt, detach the dead battery and bring it with you to the store. Not only is this a surefire way to insure that you'll get the proper replacement, there is usually a core charge that is credited at the time of purchase when you return the old battery.
If you completely doubt your abilities in this area, your motorcycle's owner's manual should point you in the right direction. A knowledgeable dealer should be able to tell you over the phone which battery came stock on your particular model.
Step 2: Disconnection
Assuming you haven't yet disconnected the old battery as was recommended for some in Step 1, take this opportunity to disconnect the positive and negative terminal from the battery's posts. Mounting designs may very from requiring a small wrench to loosen a retaining nut to a Phillips head screw. Pay special attention to the condition of the terminals (at the end of the wires). Corrosion due to the acidic nature of batteries is quite common and compromises the wires' ability to flow electricity. This is the perfect opportunity to sand away any such corrosion using steel wool or a wire brush.
Step 3: Juice It Up
Most motorcycle batteries require the addition of included electrolyte solution before functioning (that's the small white plastic container filled with a clear to yellow liquid). Filling the battery typically requires that you remove the battery's plastic top cap then "punch" the electrolyte dispenser down onto the plastic posts. From there the solution will drain into the battery's individual cells. Replace the plastic top cap and move on to Step 4. However, occasionally motorcycle batteries are sold as sealed units which means that the cells already contain the required chemical mixture from the factory. These typically require little more than installation into your machine.
Step 4: Charging
Before installing the unit into your bike, place it on a battery charger for the recommended duration (which will be disclosed in the literature that came with the battery). Typically this takes 3 to 5 hours. Remember that batteries suffer from an effect called "cell memory" which means that the battery will never function properly if you improperly (meaning not fully) charge it initially.
Step 5: Installation
Reverse the order of the removal process to install the new battery, connecting the positive cable first (which is usually indicated by the red wire). Reversing the polarity of a battery cannot only cause damage to the electrical system of your motorcycle but could potentially make the battery explode.
Tips
Always wear gloves and eye protection when working with or around battery acid.
Have a paste of baking soda and water handy to apply to your skin should you come in contact with acid as the base will neutralize its burning effect.
Easy, right? We know, but we also know how hard it can be to just take the trash out. Have any tips and techniques that shaves 10 or 15 minutes off the task of replacing a battery? Anything that happened to you that other members should be cautious of?
Looking for a quick link to battery discussions on the forums? Click here!
Step 1: Check your Current Battery
Just like with automobiles, lawnmowers, and your kid's Gameboy, not all motorcycles take the same battery. Differences between physical dimensions, charging time, and cold cranking amps result in a wide variety of choices. The best way to ensure that you're going to replace the dead battery with the proper unit is to take a look at the battery itself. Write down the brand and code number before beginning your search. Many online sites and physical stores offer conversion tables that will allow for the equivalent battery from a different manufacturer. If in doubt, detach the dead battery and bring it with you to the store. Not only is this a surefire way to insure that you'll get the proper replacement, there is usually a core charge that is credited at the time of purchase when you return the old battery.
If you completely doubt your abilities in this area, your motorcycle's owner's manual should point you in the right direction. A knowledgeable dealer should be able to tell you over the phone which battery came stock on your particular model.
Step 2: Disconnection
Assuming you haven't yet disconnected the old battery as was recommended for some in Step 1, take this opportunity to disconnect the positive and negative terminal from the battery's posts. Mounting designs may very from requiring a small wrench to loosen a retaining nut to a Phillips head screw. Pay special attention to the condition of the terminals (at the end of the wires). Corrosion due to the acidic nature of batteries is quite common and compromises the wires' ability to flow electricity. This is the perfect opportunity to sand away any such corrosion using steel wool or a wire brush.
Step 3: Juice It Up
Most motorcycle batteries require the addition of included electrolyte solution before functioning (that's the small white plastic container filled with a clear to yellow liquid). Filling the battery typically requires that you remove the battery's plastic top cap then "punch" the electrolyte dispenser down onto the plastic posts. From there the solution will drain into the battery's individual cells. Replace the plastic top cap and move on to Step 4. However, occasionally motorcycle batteries are sold as sealed units which means that the cells already contain the required chemical mixture from the factory. These typically require little more than installation into your machine.
Step 4: Charging
Before installing the unit into your bike, place it on a battery charger for the recommended duration (which will be disclosed in the literature that came with the battery). Typically this takes 3 to 5 hours. Remember that batteries suffer from an effect called "cell memory" which means that the battery will never function properly if you improperly (meaning not fully) charge it initially.
Step 5: Installation
Reverse the order of the removal process to install the new battery, connecting the positive cable first (which is usually indicated by the red wire). Reversing the polarity of a battery cannot only cause damage to the electrical system of your motorcycle but could potentially make the battery explode.
Tips
Always wear gloves and eye protection when working with or around battery acid.
Have a paste of baking soda and water handy to apply to your skin should you come in contact with acid as the base will neutralize its burning effect.
- Jason Giacchino
Easy, right? We know, but we also know how hard it can be to just take the trash out. Have any tips and techniques that shaves 10 or 15 minutes off the task of replacing a battery? Anything that happened to you that other members should be cautious of?
Looking for a quick link to battery discussions on the forums? Click here!