You've heard it said time and time again that the oil is the lifeblood of your Harley Davidson engine. Indeed, when you stop to consider that the fluid's roles include vital lubrication, engine heat dispersal, and collection of harmful particles/ metal shavings, it starts to make sense. The key to engine longevity is frequent oil changes. The following article will break down the oil-change process to inspire even the most mechanically inept to freshen up their Harley Davidson's livelihood.
Step 1: Sit Idle
It's not a bad idea to fire up the bike and let it run for a couple minutes before beginning the process. The key word here is to warm the engine, not to make it hot. Warming the oil will get it circulating through the system and make it flow freer. Making the engine hot will increase the risk of burning your skin. If in doubt, let the engine cool before attempting the oil change.
Step 2: Brain Drain
For this task, companies have developed motorcycle change stands that hold the bike firmly in place, hence allowing you access to the machine's underbelly. While we recommend using such a device for safety reasons, the reality is that many are forced to simply conduct their oil change with the bike leaning in its kickstand. Should you fall into this category, be sure to place blocks or bricks before and behind each wheel so as to prevent the bike from rolling once you are beneath it.
Locate the oil drain plug (at the bottom of the engine casing) and slide an oil pan below the drain bolt. Remove the drain plug (with a socket) and allow the engine oil to drain completely. This is a process best unrushed as it could take up to a half hour for the oil to completely drain. Don't replace the bolt until even the smallest of trickles stops completely. Additionally, if your bike is leaned over on its kickstand at this phase, grab it by the bars and stand it up vertically to free up oil that has likely pooled in the reservoir's low side.
Once all of the oil has been drained, replace drain plug with said socket.
Step 3: Filter Fun
Dig out the old owner's manual and locate the oil filter on your particular bike. A cover and several small bolts usually secure the filter. Underneath the cover you will find a rubber o-ring (gasket) and the filter itself. Replace the filter then rub a little new oil on the o-ring before reattaching the outer cover.
Step 4: Refill
Locate the oil fill plug (which is sometimes doubled as a dipstick with which to check the oil level). Remove plug and refill the engine with the recommended volume and type of oil as found in your bike's owner's manual. If in doubt, a knowledgeable dealer should be able to tell you over the phone what type and how much oil your bike takes based on the year and model.
Once filled to the proper level, replace oil fill plug. Check oil level again after the bike has been warmed up -- add oil as needed.
TIPS
Many automotive stores/ shops will accept the used oil at little to no cost so be sure to dispose of properly.
If you spill oil on concrete, sawdust makes for quick absorption/ easy cleanup with a broom.
Be sure to purchase oil designed for use with a wet clutch. Automotive oil (even if it's the recommended weight) is not designed to work with a wet clutch (one in which the transmission is lubricated by the same oil as the engine). Using improper type of oil will result in clutch slippage and inadequate transmission lubrication.
It's not a bad idea to fire up the bike and let it run for a couple minutes before beginning the process. The key word here is to warm the engine, not to make it hot. Warming the oil will get it circulating through the system and make it flow freer. Making the engine hot will increase the risk of burning your skin. If in doubt, let the engine cool before attempting the oil change.
Step 2: Brain Drain
For this task, companies have developed motorcycle change stands that hold the bike firmly in place, hence allowing you access to the machine's underbelly. While we recommend using such a device for safety reasons, the reality is that many are forced to simply conduct their oil change with the bike leaning in its kickstand. Should you fall into this category, be sure to place blocks or bricks before and behind each wheel so as to prevent the bike from rolling once you are beneath it.
Locate the oil drain plug (at the bottom of the engine casing) and slide an oil pan below the drain bolt. Remove the drain plug (with a socket) and allow the engine oil to drain completely. This is a process best unrushed as it could take up to a half hour for the oil to completely drain. Don't replace the bolt until even the smallest of trickles stops completely. Additionally, if your bike is leaned over on its kickstand at this phase, grab it by the bars and stand it up vertically to free up oil that has likely pooled in the reservoir's low side.
Once all of the oil has been drained, replace drain plug with said socket.
Step 3: Filter Fun
Dig out the old owner's manual and locate the oil filter on your particular bike. A cover and several small bolts usually secure the filter. Underneath the cover you will find a rubber o-ring (gasket) and the filter itself. Replace the filter then rub a little new oil on the o-ring before reattaching the outer cover.
Step 4: Refill
Locate the oil fill plug (which is sometimes doubled as a dipstick with which to check the oil level). Remove plug and refill the engine with the recommended volume and type of oil as found in your bike's owner's manual. If in doubt, a knowledgeable dealer should be able to tell you over the phone what type and how much oil your bike takes based on the year and model.
Once filled to the proper level, replace oil fill plug. Check oil level again after the bike has been warmed up -- add oil as needed.
TIPS
Many automotive stores/ shops will accept the used oil at little to no cost so be sure to dispose of properly.
If you spill oil on concrete, sawdust makes for quick absorption/ easy cleanup with a broom.
Be sure to purchase oil designed for use with a wet clutch. Automotive oil (even if it's the recommended weight) is not designed to work with a wet clutch (one in which the transmission is lubricated by the same oil as the engine). Using improper type of oil will result in clutch slippage and inadequate transmission lubrication.
- Jason Giacchino
An oil change isn't that bad, it's sort of non-intensive engine work. How many of you guys take it to the shop and how many like to do it yourself? Worth your time? Have any tips to make it easier and quicker?
For additional oil changing specifics for your particular model, please visit the following resource: http://hdforums.com/forum/tags/oil.html
For additional oil changing specifics for your particular model, please visit the following resource: http://hdforums.com/forum/tags/oil.html