How to Change the Brake Pads for your Harley Davidson Touring

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How to Change the Brake Pads for your Harley Davidson Touring

One of the most important maintenance procedures for any Harley Davidson Touring is the brake pad replacement. Brake pads on the Touring, like those on other vehicles, are designed to help the brakes to stop the vehicle efficiently and quickly. Without proper brake pads, the Touring becomes a dangerous vehicle on the road, both to the driver and to the other drivers in the area as well. In order to maintain proper safety levels, plan to change out the brake pads on your Touring every 2000 to 3000 miles. The procedure is easy and can be completed at home with a few basic tools and a brief period of time.

Step 1 -- Gather Materials

Collect the following tools and materials in order to change the brake pads on a Harley Davidson Touring:

New brake pads
Allen wrench
Screwdriver set
Cleaning spray
Pliers

Step 2 -- Prep and Mount the Touring

It's important to wait for a few hours after riding until after the bike has cooled down in order to mount up the Touring for this project. Failing to do so may mean that the bike will be overheated, and you could cause injury to yourself trying to access the brake system at this time. Once the motorcycle is entirely cool, put it up on the mount such that you'll have access to both sides easily.

Step 3 -- Remove the Caliper Bolts

Use the Allen wrench to carefully remove the caliper bolts from the outside of the brake system. Set them aside in a safe place to be replaced and reinstalled on the bike later on. If your Touring has a retaining clip setup to hold the calipers in place instead of bolts, turn the clips by hand until they line up such that the ends of the clips stick out. Next, use the pliers to remove the clips and set them aside as well.

Step 4 -- Remove and Clean the Calipers

Pull out the calipers by hand and examine them for signs of damage. This can include cracks, general wear and tear and any other signs of abuse. If you detect any damage, discard the calipers and purchase new ones to replace on your vehicle. Otherwise, use the cleaning spray to clean the calipers of any dirt or debris that may be on them.

Step 5 -- Remove the Brake Pad and Clean the Pistons

Take out the brake pad on either side of the brake system by hand and discard it in an appropriate place and manner. Depress the brake pedal until all of the air has been forced out of the pistons and they're fully collapsed. Next, use your cleaning spray to clean up the brake caliper pistons and the spring setup. When you're done, use the screwdrivers to push the pistons back into the brake caliper set.

Step 6 -- Replace the Brake Pads and Close Up the System

Replace the brake pads with new pads and then place the calipers back in place. Put the caliper bolts or retaining clips back in place to hold the calipers steady. Use the Allen wrench to tighten up the brake pad calipers once again. Before you remove the bike from the mount, test out the brake pedal to be sure that it will depress properly.

Remove the bike from the mount and test out the brakes by driving it at a very slow speed and in a controlled way.

The parts necessary for this project are available at motorcycle repair shops or hardware stores.

Jim Howell (Fri, 02 Dec 2011 13:04:43 -0800): If brake pads only last 2 to 3000 miles I'm going to get a honda.

Hank Hamelin (Fri, 23 Mar 2012 10:32:01 -0700): Step 5 "depress the brake pedal until all the air is forced out of the pistons" hmmmm, isn't that asking for trouble? I would never depress the brake pedal with the caliper removed from the rotor unless I want "practice" bleeding the brake lines.

Michael Meadows (Sat, 28 Jul 2012 15:52:33 -0700): I'm confident that was a typo. I've got at least 6k on my rear now. I don't know how many mile were on the front when I got my bike, but I've added about 12k to that. (your milage may very... LOL... a buddy of mine will, literally, destroy a set of brake pads and rotors in 3,000 miles on a car. He will just never understand that you don't drive with one foot on each pedal !)

Mike Benzon (Sun, 11 Dec 2011 07:47:09 -0800): I'm hoping they meant 20,000 to 30,000.

Wayne Walters (Fri, 18 May 2012 06:39:03 -0700): I think someone really needs to proof read the articles before posting. You know as well as I do pads will last a lot longer than 2,000 to 3,000 miles

Michael Meadows (Tue, 10 Jan 2012 12:27:19 -0800): I changed the rear pads on my '08 ElectraGlide last summer. Once the bags were off, it took less than three minutes. I have to agree with the writer's saying "a brief period of time". As I recall it took a 5 and an 8mm allen wrench. Pretty sweet!

(Sun, 12 Feb 2012 20:29:40 -0800): I thot this was good info. Thanks

Bill Moersch (Fri, 17 Feb 2012 07:49:10 -0800): Thank you for sharing and saving people a ton of monrey!!

Matthew Johnson (Sun, 08 Apr 2012 20:34:16 -0700): My owner's manual says to inspect the pads for wear every 5000 miles. Mike Benzon, I hope you are right. Also, as Hank Hamelin said, I, too, would feel uncomfortable depressing the brake pedal without the calipers loaded and in place. Admittedly, I have not changed pads on a motorcycle before. Much less a Harley. But, my car experience has taught me that pressing on the brake paddle pushes the pistons out of the calipers. Not that the air will escape and allow them to collapse. And, that air in the system is not a good thing. I just looked at my manual and on page 1-36 of section 1.16 "Brake Pads and Disks" there is a note between steps 4 and 5 saying specifically to "not operate the brake pedal". Though the article looks very official I would have some questions. Such as, do you compress the brake handle for the same result when doing the front brakes? Again, the manual says not to do so.

James Sokolovic (Fri, 04 May 2012 17:00:41 -0700): It is about 30,000 per change depending on how you ride.......I am about to turn 60,000 on mine (on a 2008 Ultra, LOL) and need to add another set. My last ones were changed at about 30,000. Also, the comment made about pressing the lever to get rid of air bubbles, there's not going to be any air bubbles unless you run the brake cylinder dry or open it up. DON"T DO IT! Adding air to a brake system, especially when it wasn't there before, is very dangerous. Air compresses, brake fluid does not. Brake changes on the ultra is a snap.

Janie Salz (Tue, 05 Jun 2012 15:19:22 -0700): A picture of each step would be helpful

Tony Baceski Sr. (Thu, 21 Jun 2012 11:13:03 -0700): first of all if you need pictures, you need to take it to a shop. I would love to know how to find out WHO wrote this. I think the bleeding part was brought up if you replace the caliper? just saying

Bill Mitchell (Sun, 24 Jun 2012 06:17:05 -0700): Allen bolts? How about 12 point bolts? What bike are you working on?

Steve Chambless (Wed, 11 Jul 2012 15:43:14 -0700): My same sentiments.

Michael Napier (Tue, 07 Aug 2012 16:31:33 -0700): My last Roadglide my pads lasted an easy 20,000 miles my first change second change front lasted 25,000 and rear lasted to 30,000

Stewart Lee Bowles (Thu, 06 Dec 2012 16:17:35 -0800): Well, DO NOT EVER depress the pedal or the brake lever when the pads are not in and on the rotor. You will be doing more than bleeding the brakes, you will be trying to rebuild the calliper as this WILL push the pistons out of the calliper, not a good thing. On the Ulra Classic and such bikes, the bolts are 12 point bolts not allen bolts. And the brake pads will last you about 30 to 40 thousand miles if you ride your bike like you have some sense. Just saying. Mine have lasted about 30,000 so far. I am changing them out this week. Hope this was of help to some.

Joseph Coburn (Sun, 20 Jan 2013 14:34:22 -0800): How do u replace the pads on a 2007 Road glide? The caliper is built into the swing arm, this is a tough task!

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Nick Palmeter (Thu, 09 May 2013 02:36:35 -0700): can someone please help me with something I was looking at doing my back brakes but I could not figure out what size of wrench or socket I will need for the 12 point pad pins (known as the pad pins) they seem to be half reesed into the caliper is it a regular tool or is it a harley tool it is on a 2003 classic?