Noisy Tappets
#1
Noisy Tappets
Hi, Can anyone tell me why my tappets on a my Road King 103 cube, 2012 model seems to have noisy tappets?
My bro has a Electra Glide 96 cube, and his engine is lovely and quiet.
I have only done 2500 miles.
My dealer has not given me a satisfactory answer,(they are all like that?)
Will a heaver oil quieten them or could they be a problem?
Cheers Phill.T
My bro has a Electra Glide 96 cube, and his engine is lovely and quiet.
I have only done 2500 miles.
My dealer has not given me a satisfactory answer,(they are all like that?)
Will a heaver oil quieten them or could they be a problem?
Cheers Phill.T
#2
Mine are pretty noisy too, I run mobil 1 20 w 50 synthetic and still noisy. I was told Harley switched lifters ( tappets) in 103s. Dealer told me same thing its normal. I was hoping when put new Vance and Hines on will hear exhaust instead. If and when I do cams I will go with new lifters.
#3
Different engines. If you do not like your dealer find an indy that is knowledgeable & have them check it to ease your mind. What ever you do, DO NOT try to cover up the noise by going to heavier oil, additives, etc. My gear drive Woods cams & SE lifters sound like they are coming through the gas tank but it's all good & it runs great.
#4
I think your bike was built with the 'c' lifters, if so, they are sure to fail. If they do, the results will be nothing short of catastrophic. Your dealer will likely want you to wait until your engine grenades, as warranty isn't supposed to fix 'noisy' parts, only 'failed' parts. If you wish to circumvent your warranty, try locating a set of 'b' lifters or go aftermarket with gaterman or s&s. Woods cams are the exception to this, no amount of expense will make them quiet. They work well but the ramps are steep = more noise. You can find a lot of pictures and stories on the Web about failed 'c' lifters. Typically, the bearings in the roller come out and then the roller starts skating on the cam lobe. This scenario typically requires a complete teardown and many many parts. Good luck....
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#9
Something else to consider. When I had my indy put cams in my 2013, he told me he's finding the push rods too long. It takes all the adjustment out of the lifters. I'm remembering off the top of my head so the numbers may be wrong but I think he said my push rods were 20 thou too long and that the lifters only have 30 thou of adjustment. That reduced mine to only 10. Instead of adjustables, he takes the time to open the rocker box and use the stock rods and he modified them to the correct length. This guy is extremely meticulous and would have recommended changing the lifters while he was in there if he thouhgt they wouldn't last.
Hopefully someone here is more knowledgable on that then me and can confirm or deny what I just said.
Hopefully someone here is more knowledgable on that then me and can confirm or deny what I just said.
#10
Some interesting opinions and comments above. In any case, the "C" lifter quality and longevity is pretty suspect. I swapped mine out at 8K mi. and the plating was flaking off the rollers and they felt pretty rough. Installed Gaterman 1023's, adjustable pushrods, and Andrews 48 cams.
Most lifters for this application have .200" of pre-load adjustment travel available. The generally accepted practice, and what the stock design does, is set them too .100" depth, or the middle of the travel envelope. A lot of builders go deeper than that for more pre-load on the valve train, and so do I. Mine are set at .140" depth, and the valve train is much quieter than it was stock.
Most lifters for this application have .200" of pre-load adjustment travel available. The generally accepted practice, and what the stock design does, is set them too .100" depth, or the middle of the travel envelope. A lot of builders go deeper than that for more pre-load on the valve train, and so do I. Mine are set at .140" depth, and the valve train is much quieter than it was stock.