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New (for me) 06 Road King Standard - Handlebar questions...

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Old 06-17-2013, 11:27 AM
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Default New (for me) 06 Road King Standard - Handlebar questions...

Hey guys. Just came off of a Honda VTX 1300C into a 06 Road King Standard FLHRI. It still has the stock seat and handlebars on it. This bike is obviously a completely different beast.

I'm 6'2" and about 275 pounds and can feel myself leaning forward enough that after about 30 miles it gets a little uncomfortable in my mid to upper back.

On my VTX I replaced the stock seat with Ultimate Mid Riders and also had a 2 inch riser. Can't do risers with the RK from what I'm told so....

I "do" plan to eventually get Ultimate MidRider Seats for my RK but for now am keeping the stock set. With that said, my next purchase is probably going to be new bars.

I was thinking of getting the Reduced Reach Road King Handlebar-56166-08 which will supposedly give me 2 inches back but more and more I am wondering what will happen when I switch my seats. I would imagine I will sit down lower in the seat than with the stock seat which means I'll lose some or all of my pull back again.

After reading through about 10 threads on this topic I am thinking of also considering the wild one mini 12.5s or maybe 14s. I DO NOT want my hands higher than my shoulders and I don't like having my wrists turned out like I've seen some bars do.

The reduced reach bars are $90 and the WOs are about $220 and while I don't mind spending the extra cash if it's worth it I can always go for saving cash where I don't need to spend it. (If that makes any sense at all!)

Was wondering if anyone with my size build has some feedback that can help me go in the right direction. Sorry for bringing up yet another thread about handlebars. I "did" search first and "did" read about the many different types of bars. Just looking for a little custom feedback to help put me in the right direction now.
 
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Old 06-17-2013, 11:31 AM
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If your pretty sure you are going to change out the seat if there is any way you can wait and do it together you will stand a better chance of getting it right the first time.

I always fit the seating position first, get a seat that puts me where I want to be on the bike, with good leg position then figure out what you need for handlebars. otherwise what fits sitting on the stock seat wont fit and be comfortable when you change seats and are 1" back and 2" lower etc.

Im 6'3" with a 34" inseam and Ive always been more comfortable on a Touring frame back an inch or so from stock and I like to sit a little lower / into the bike, plus moving floorboards forward and out 1" makes the seating relationship to the handlebars a lot different
 

Last edited by XARAN; 06-17-2013 at 11:34 AM.
  #3  
Old 06-17-2013, 11:36 AM
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I hear ya. I guess it's a matter of economics for me right now. While I want to get the seats first I just can't afford them right now ($845) and I'd guess it will be at least 6 to 8 months before I can. I do need some relief though because of the leaning forward thing so I figured bars are cheaper than seats so I thought I'd go down that road first.

Thanks for the response.
 
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Old 06-17-2013, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by MrIncredible-NJ
On my VTX I replaced the stock seat with Ultimate Mid Riders and also had a 2 inch riser. Can't do risers with the RK from what I'm told so....
You can install handlebar risers, if you replace your handlebar cover with the "Street Slammer" riser cover (55854-07).
 
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:46 AM
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Thanks for the feedback guys.
 
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:56 AM
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Look into Santee handlebars as well... I had a set of the 11" (mini) apes a year ago, but wanted to go a bit higher.
They also make a set of 14" Apes too.... and these run for about $100-110 a set.

I liked the Santee bars, and they were very good quality. (Got mine thru J&P Cycles.)

Good Luck!

.
 
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:07 AM
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So here's what I think I am going to do for now.

Considering my somewhat limited current budget, I am going to get the Reduced Reach bars. They are $90 new (was hoping to find a used set) and don't need any cable changes. Just swap for stock and get 2 inches back.

While I think I am will eventually end up with Wild 1 12.5 chubbys they will require new cables which will add about $300 to the overall parts cost.

$500+ or $90. $90 wins and gives me some immediate relief. Who knows, they may be enough for me to keep too. Then I can finally get the Rumble Road speakers I've always wanted....that's a whole different topic though.
 
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