I've been searching all over the forums here as well as the xlforums and there is a lot of talk about people who have done it but I haven't seen any build threads or real discussion about the mounting of the Buell into the sportster frame. Seems like most of them are putting them in older sportster frames 90'-00'. Do any of you guys know of a build thread or where I could find some actual info on this? I was thinking about going with the NRHS 1250 kit for my 2013 Iron but from what I've read while looking for info it seems that the stock Buell 1200 engine essentially starts you out at 90 hp at the crank. Any info is appreciated.

 

You should be asking over on xlforums also, that is a whole forum dedicated to XL models and they may know more.

All I know is that what you are proposing is a MAJOR major undertaking to a brand new bike.

I hate to say it, but I wonder if you would not be better off starting with a dyna and working backwards (chop the tank, etc...).

It would be a guaranteed warranty ender, and also it might be hard to find a MoCo dealer who would even work on it. And now that Indy dealers apparently can't get MoCo parts (you have to get them from the MoCo and deliver to your indy mech is what I heard)....man you might be putting yourself into a strange situation unless you are very skilled with a wrench.

What is your goal here? The fastest sportster on the planet?

You had better prepare to put $1500 into the suspension and a HUGE brake upgrade while you are at it, or that HP will be lost on your Iron.

 

no need to switch the entire engine at all....that would be foolish in my book.

check out hammerperf.com. the are sportster crazy for performance.

They can get you to a 100 hp at the rear wheel pretty easy with the correct components.

they port your heads or you can run rubbermount 1200 heads or you can run buell xb heads. I have buell xb heads on my 1992 and its making great power from hammer performance.

 

Also, lets not forget the massive, massive effect that gearing can have on a bike.

You can turn a modest bike into a wheelie machine with just gearing, as long as you are ok not going 90mph on the highway (else you will be running high rpm).

Add a speedo healer and you can even keep the odometer and speedo correct.

Gearing has the biggest, best "butt dyno to dollar" ratio amongst all mods IMVHO.

 

http://hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml

lots of info in the above link. The hammer guys are second to none!

 

put a 100hp to the ground and it doesnt matter what gearing is in it. gearing is a crutch. I will disagree with your gearing has the biggest but dyno to dollar ratio amongst mods. My info is based off of timed 1/4 mile passes......to me....thats the only way to tell if the gearing made the bike quicker of slower.

 

The meaning of butt dyno is exacty the opposite of measuring 1/4 mile times.

No one would ever say that gearing is a substitute for power in a drag race.

"Butt dyno" means "how fast it FEELS in normal riding" not how fast its 1/4 mile times are.

Does that make sense?

Talk to any normal street rider who is not ripping 1/4 miles on the weekend who has dropped a tooth from their front sprocket, the felt effect is amazing even though your bike is NOT ACTUALLY FASTER or making more power.

 

gearing a stock 1200 down past 883 gearing doesnt do much but make you have to shift faster and have high rpms at highway speeds.

 

im picking up what your putting down.

 

I agree.

I think it makes as much sense as buying a brand new 2013 Iron 883 and then turning around before its even broken in (probably, just guessing) and talking about doing a very rare engine swap that maybe 100 other guys in the world have actually done.

OP seems to have a case of "I bought the wrong bike" syndrome, so I was trying to suggest a solution that might be very cheap to try, and if all he wants is for the bike to FEEL faster....that might do the trick.

Surely, it would be worth considering before he goes and tries to do this crazy *** engine swap on a brand new bike.