First the clutch release adjustment must be done.
1) Turn the cable adjuster at the primary case in enough to obtain a lot of slack in the cable at the clutch lever.
2) Remove the access plug at the center of the primary case.
3) Using a 13/16 socket loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting screw inward until it becomes harder to turn, then turn it in further (2 full turns). This disengages the clutch.
4) Adjust all play out of the clutch cable by turning the cable adjuster on the primary case. Stop when all slack is removed, but with no load on the cable.
5) OK, cable is adjusted properly. Tighten down the cable adjuster locknut.
6) Back to item (3)....This is called the clutch release adjustment. Back off that adjustment screw until it moves freely. Then turn it inward until there is no freeplay. Stop. Back out the screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn and tighten down the locknut.

After the above has been done, does the clutch still drag? If not you are ready to go. If it does drag, then you need to proceed to the next step which is Adjusting the Clutch Spring Tension.

Clutch Spring Tension Adjustment:
1) Pull the primary cover and left footpeg off.
2) The very outer steel plate with the 6 adjusting nuts (7/16 size) is called the clutch releasing disc (CRD). When you tighten the 6 nuts, this moves the CRD
in closer to the outside surface of the outer drive plate and increases the clutch pressure.
3) The outer surface of the CRD should measure 11/32 inch from the outer surface of the outer drive plate. This dimension is to be maintained at all 6 adjusting nuts to keep the CRD true. This will result in normal clutch spring tension, which is what you want.
NOTE: When establishing the spring tension, do not make the dimension less than 5/16 inch or the clutch may not release. See, you have a whole 1/32 inch to play with!

A long, long time ago I modified my clutch so that I do not have to go thru this pickey alignment procedure. This is done by carefully cutting 6 pieces of steel tubing to the exact same length (1.490 long) and slipping them over the 6 studs on the clutch hub. Then assemble the clutch plates into the shell, install the CRD and use your clutch spring compresspr tool to compress the springs, and tighten all 6 nuts down against these spacers you just made. Automatic alignment and the correct spring tension, all in one step. This is how the Sportster clutch was modified by the factory in 1974 and newer models.


I know this may sound confusing but I tried to make it as plain as possible. I have included an exploded view of the clutch, so maybe that will help. If anyone has any questions and needs more info please email me and I can send you a PDF of what I have on the subject.
Also, if I have not explained a step correctly I am sure I will hear about it for one of you out there........pg




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Piniongear, thanks for starting a new thread after I so rudely hijacked the other one.

I will try a readjustment on the clutch/cable again to make sure that isn't the problem. I do have a tool similar to the one shown on the bottom of the sheet you provided, however I don't have anything close to the top one. I will work on making one.

I love your idea of using short sections of tubing to ensure a proper releasing disc alignment. I think I may give that a whirl too.

Thank you so much for the info!

Chris

 

yes Chris, the tubes are certainly worth the time it takes to make them. You will see on one of the sheets I attached that different dimensions are given for the tube lengths on a 1974 and newer clutch. I have just always used the 1.490 inches and it has worked fine. Much easier to put the clutch together using the tubes.
I am glad you have the spring tool. If you could get one steel plate and one fiber plate from a shop's discard pile you can easily make the hub/clutch basket locking tool. Let us know how it all goes.
I am hoping doing the clutch adjustment on the cable will eliminate the drag. Still, it would be good to go into the clutch if you have the tools to check things out and install the 6 tubes.
The tube ID needs to be 1/4 inch (plus) to go over the studs, and the OD must pass freely through the holes in the steel plates, which is about 3/8 inch as I recall....but don't quote me on that one. I had found some standard size tubing that worked fine, I just had to cut and finish grind it to the desired length......pg

 

Those "spacer tubes" can purchased from HD dealer OEM # 5995 for standard lenght 1,530" tube (need 6)
and as PG suggested -0,04 OEM # 5996, next option -0,08 OEM # 5997