two ironhead questions...
#1
two ironhead questions...
OK, I have two questions...hopefully easy to answer. First, my engine is burning oil...most ly when accelerating and changing gears...is this more likely the valve guides or the rings? If it is the guides, is there a seal I can install rather than changing the guides? Second question...for those in an E85 methanol area, have you noticed flat spots on accel? It's only been the last 2 months or so, and without fuel injection, I've really noticed a decrease in power. An help is appreciated, thanks!!
#2
RE: two ironhead questions...
Is it burning large amounts of oil?
While I'm not an Ironhead expert, I have logged over 40k miles on mine. I had a top end job done on it 3 days after I got it. My buddy is an Ironhead guru and did the job. He does not put valve seals on the exhaust guides. He claims the little bit of oil that trickles down helps prevent galling. My bike puffs a bit at an idle and gives off a puff between gears. However, it does not use enough between changes to ever need any oil added.
IMO, if you are using oil and have a decrease in power, you need to be doing a compression check and be considering the possibility of needing a new top end job.
While I'm not an Ironhead expert, I have logged over 40k miles on mine. I had a top end job done on it 3 days after I got it. My buddy is an Ironhead guru and did the job. He does not put valve seals on the exhaust guides. He claims the little bit of oil that trickles down helps prevent galling. My bike puffs a bit at an idle and gives off a puff between gears. However, it does not use enough between changes to ever need any oil added.
IMO, if you are using oil and have a decrease in power, you need to be doing a compression check and be considering the possibility of needing a new top end job.
#3
RE: two ironhead questions...
It most likely is a bit of each. The rings wear with the milage build up along with the guides. When your guides are worn to the point they let excess oil by, then there is not a seal in the world that will remedy that problem.
The only way you are going to know where the wear has happened is to pull the heads, remove the valves and measure the guide wear. This is of course the time to inspect the valve seats. Chances are better than average that it nees a valve job done.
In fact, if you want to do this inspection, plan on a valve job as part of the operation. You really should not remove the valves without refacing both the valves and the seats before putting it back together.
If you are concerned with the rings, again...the only way to check this wear is to pull both cylinders off and measure. You are not looking to measure the rings, but the cylinder wear. I would stick an ID mike in the bores (top and bottom) to see what the difference is. At a certain point of wear, the only solution is to rebore and install new pistons. If you pull the heads and can feel or see a ridge at the top of the cylinders, then it is not a question of do you need to bore, but rather how much will it take to clean up the cylinders?
We are getting serious here I know, but I am just telling you the way it is. On the otherhand, if you are not in a position to do this inspection now I recommend you just ride the bike and enjoy it. Ironheads can run a long, long time before a little burning oil stops them.
As to your question of the E-85 fuel.......I can only say I can easily live without that stuff. The alcohol destroys O rings and seals in the carb over time. Gimme back the MTBE anyday. Just my 2 centavos here...............pg
The only way you are going to know where the wear has happened is to pull the heads, remove the valves and measure the guide wear. This is of course the time to inspect the valve seats. Chances are better than average that it nees a valve job done.
In fact, if you want to do this inspection, plan on a valve job as part of the operation. You really should not remove the valves without refacing both the valves and the seats before putting it back together.
If you are concerned with the rings, again...the only way to check this wear is to pull both cylinders off and measure. You are not looking to measure the rings, but the cylinder wear. I would stick an ID mike in the bores (top and bottom) to see what the difference is. At a certain point of wear, the only solution is to rebore and install new pistons. If you pull the heads and can feel or see a ridge at the top of the cylinders, then it is not a question of do you need to bore, but rather how much will it take to clean up the cylinders?
We are getting serious here I know, but I am just telling you the way it is. On the otherhand, if you are not in a position to do this inspection now I recommend you just ride the bike and enjoy it. Ironheads can run a long, long time before a little burning oil stops them.
As to your question of the E-85 fuel.......I can only say I can easily live without that stuff. The alcohol destroys O rings and seals in the carb over time. Gimme back the MTBE anyday. Just my 2 centavos here...............pg
#4
RE: two ironhead questions...
You should not run E85 unless you have a carb. made for it. S&S has a alcohol carb. although it is a "B" type. E85 has less BTU's so you will run very (VERY) lean unless you jet for it. E85 will not save you any money as once you get jetted, your milage will be in the area of 18 mpg. Until the cost comes down, its just not worth the effort.
#5
#6
RE: two ironhead questions...
A compression test will tell you whether your rings are leaking. Run a test after the bike has been sitting for at least 24 hours, and note the pressure. Then put about a tablespoon of oil down each sparkplug hole and test it again. If the second test gives a significantly higher reading, you need rings.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
RE: two ironhead questions...
Better than a compression test is a cylinder leakage test. It will tell you right away if it's your rings, intake
or exhaust valve. It'smore informativethan a compression test, which will only tell you that you have a
problem. Very easy to do with a leakage tester. Cheap at HF Tools.
or exhaust valve. It'smore informativethan a compression test, which will only tell you that you have a
problem. Very easy to do with a leakage tester. Cheap at HF Tools.
#9
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post