I picked up a shovelhead, kick only,about 2 months ago, the first few days it ran great then the accelerator pump went, so I had the card rebuilt (s&s E), then it would run okay for a few minutes then shut down, so I installed a accel electonic ignition and coil, still the same problem. I thought maybe it was a carb problem we jetted the carb,my buddy took it for a ride and when it sputteredhe shook the key and it clearedout 2 or 3 times, so we replaced the ignitionswitch, and the rectyfierfor the hell of it and the problem was still ongoing, so I put the points back in, for the most part it starts on the 1st or 2nd kick, every once in a while it'll take 10 to 20 to get it going, it seems as though it's not getting enough juice but everything is getting power, and around 40 to 50 mph it'll hesitate a little bit the clear out, any help would be appreciated, thanks, Mark

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Nice bike Mark,
you may have one or more things going on which I am sure you are aware of, this make the challenge that much more fun to figure out. hope we can help.
what kind of modifications have been done to the engine? cam & cubic inches ?
Wiring can give interment problems:
good ground to the frame
really pay attention to details.
good quality battery and charging system good working order.

When starting a kick only engine you need to get down the sequence of how to start your particular engine.
hope I'm not boring you with things you already know.
after I got my shovel running I had to change my starting procedure by using no enricher or it would flood real fast. I'd probably still be kicking on it if I didn't have electric start.

 

Thanks Rodney, I was actually looking for something a little ratty looking till I stumbled across this one it struck me as different, it has anArlenNess Digger frame it's 6 out and 4 up, with a 6 over front end. I purchased the bike out of Florida,the top end was redone about 4,000 miles ago 74" and stock compression, the cam isabout one size over stock but the guy didn't have any paperwork on it, the work was done before he prchased it, I asked if there was a certaintrick to starting it, the guy told me no, a few of my buddies told me twist the throttle 2 to 3 timesthen kick it twice with the key off, then turn the key on,so far I keep the choke in the off position,most of the time it kicks right over, then there's the times it doesn't, I replaced the wires to and from the on/off switch on the bars, to the coil and to the points, the battery is also new, I cleaned the ground at the frame under the seat, that's pretty much the only one I could find, I'm really not too sure what else to try, thanks again , Mark

 

Since you have the electronic ignition and feel it wasn't the problem I'd install it for a more constant spark.
time the engine.
Check to see that the correct spark plugs and wires are being used for your system.
if you haven't already read up on the S&S carburetor and put it back to base line jetting and settings if not already.
follow and tune the carb as as described by S&S.
if you don't know take a look at the valve adjustment and if they are solids or hydraulic
tighten head bolts and check for intake leaks.
good fuel supply
vented cap
bowel vent installed on the Carburetor
use a volt to be sure your getting 12.6 volts or more when running the engine or at least see that you are charging the battery.

 

Actually it runs more consistant with the points for some reason, I also noticed with the timing almost all the way advanced it seems to start more often on the first or second kick, I tried to set it with a light but no luck, when I set the points I left the backing plate in the center of the 2 set screws and kept advancing it until it started, so I'm not really sure where it's set at, I checked the batt, it's charging correctly, the cap is vented, I checked the head bolts(OK), my buddy checked the valve adjustment when I first started having the issue, the weather has been pretty shitty here so I'm gonna check the carb adjustment again this weekend.

 

For base line timing I bring up TDC for # 1 by the timing plug hole and marks
then with the points adjusted {with electronic no problem} have the distributor plate loosed.
have a test light to the coil -{minus} side and starting from the retarded side of the timer turn the distributor plate just until the light comes on and tighten down the plate.

 

I don't want to sound like a jackass, I checked my coil there's no pos or neg side, with the pointsset up, as long as thekey is on they both have power to them, unless I need to retard it more, or maybe I'm just retarded.

 

Not a problem I have to rethink the timing settings every time I do this.
I may have to actually go through the steps to give an accurate description how I do this. Its been a month since I set up my 68.
I'll be doing the cone engine soon and pay close attention to the procedure.
have you checked to make sure the advance weight and springs are working correctly?
The manual I have doesn't go back to 76 it only is describing the breakerless system so someone down the line has change this 1980 engine I'm working on to points.
when I do time an engine I have the bike on a lift
the spark plugs out
trans in 4th gear and use the rear wheel to turn the engine over {unless the primary cover is off then I would use a socket and breaker bar on the engine nut to turn the engine}.
intake push rod tube lifted to see the intake valve open and close. this way I know for certain I am using the correct timing mark for TDC # 1.
then set the timer. {when setting my 68 I need to twist the timer cam to full advance}
their is also an plug offered that is screwed in the timing hole which also acts as a wiper to keep the oil off the wheels so one can see the timing mark if using a light. I've never used tho.
once I am confident the timing is nailed down and I am trouble shooting a problem with the running of an engine I leave the timing alone and look else where for the problem. but ya got to be sure the advance weights are functioning correctly.
This is easier that I am making it sound I'm sure

 

 

I've had a similar problem that I traced to the petcock, replaced with a pingel and the hesitation was gone. Just a thought.