What's up guys I have a 2003 harley davidson softail custom 14,500 the starter sometimes won't engage and crank the motor when I lean the bike to the right or give it a quick jolt to the right she starts right up also when the bike is on the kick stand leaning left in neutral it make this noise like somethingis grinding not engaging scaling just a real fu&$(36 up noise but when I do the same thing jolt the bike to the right the noise goes away or whatever it is engages It is really freaking me out please let me know what I can do or what it can be thank you EXPOZ85

 

Open the primary, in the upper right hand corner you will see the starter jackshaft that comes out from behind the starter. This is where the starter engages the clutch basket. This is where you will see your problem.

 

thanks dawg but what is exactly the problem where can i find diagram of the whole primary im gonna pull that primnary off and see whats up in there

 

The best thing you can do is pick yourself up a 2003 HD softail service manual and it will explain how things are taken apart. Below you will see a pic of the inside of a primary and in the upper right you will see where I circled where the starter comes out and engages the clutch basket. If you are hearing grinding and no engagement, then you will see it here. You may need a new starter clutch (you can get a nippondenso that is used in some Toyotas which is identical, but cheaper than HD).

92 - 98 Toyota Corolla/Celica/camry

Nippondenso OSGR starter

WAI number 54-82401

http://www.wai-wetherill.com/product...i_num=54-82401

The manual will explain how to remove the lock tab and sleeve to remove the starter jackshaft and explain all the other steps on starter removal, inner primary removal, etc.

 

Not in my Harley-Davidson! Where were you 2 months ago when my starter clutch went out (but think my HD cost $180)? LOL Sounds like a clutch but so little mileage... mine went out at 85K. If "does not engage" means it will not turn but does one big CLACK and nothing or a bunch of tiny click-clicks, then I would be looking at a power source (battery or conn) problem first (I can't hear what's going on through the net!). Below are so T/S steps to check starter system:

*All tests performed with ignition disabled and run/stop switch to “run”: pull ignition relay from fuse box or isolate spark plugs {engine will rotate but not start as required}. Relay terminal numbers are stamped into the relay.
**Tests #1 through 4 performed with starter relay installed: readings taken at relay pin locations installed into connection.

Must be known "good" battery and all connections sound!
PRE-TEST: BATTERY VOLTAGE WITH KEY ON___________VDC (LOADED BATTERY VOLTAGE) MULTIMETER LEADS TO BATTERY TERMINALS RECORD VALUE {Better to remove and have tested using load tester; voltage does not = cranking amps!}

1. 86 Terminal checking starter switch operation: red multimeter lead to battery +, black to relay pin #86
key on/depress start switch should read 1VDC, 2.0VDC for FLT max.

2. 50 Terminal checking starter relay: red multimeter lead to battery +, black to starter “50” terminal (green wire) key on/depress start switch should read 1VDC max.

3. Motor Terminal checking starter solenoid: red multimeter lead to battery +, black to starter terminal “C” (short silver wire) key on/depress starter switch should read 1VDC max.

4. Starter Motor Ground: red multimeter lead to starter mount bolt, black to battery –
key on/depress start switch should read zero volts

*The following tests are performed with starter relay out and readings taken at fuse box relay location. Engine will not rotate.

5. Power to Relay @ Terminal 86: red multimeter lead to fuse box pin location #86, black to battery –
key on/depress starter switch should read battery voltage

6. Power to Relay @ Terminal 30: red multimeter lead to fuse box pin location #30, black lead to battery –
key on/depress starter switch should read battery voltage.

7. Starter Relay Ground in OHMS: red multimeter lead to pin # 85, black to battery –
key OFF depress start switch should read 300K OHMS with TSSM or “continuity” for all others

*Starter relay back in fuse box.

8. Power to Terminal 50 (Green Wire at starter): read multimeter lead to relay terminal 50 (green wire), black to battery - key on/depress starter switch should read battery voltage

A+ on service manual! The above is "simplified" service manual tests I used at school.

 

Once had the same problem, if I leaned the bike to the right it would start?? I later found the jackshaft bolt had loosen, it was the locking tab was not bent enough to keep the bolt from spinning loose, new locking tab and its been good since.

 

I read about using the starter clutch from a 1998 Toyota Camry and liked the idea because most auto parts come with a lifetime warranty. I ordered and received one from Advance Auto Parts. The clutch is the same but the bushing that the clutch and bearings are pressed to is about an inch longer than the one for my Harley. I removed the bearing and clutch from the Harley bushing and found that the bushing had .004" of wear, this is why the clutch was slipping. So it is pointless to remove the Toyota clutch and press to Harley bushing. I have a 2003 Softail Deuce with starter clutch 31663-90, it is possible that the Toyota starter clutch replaces other Harley starter clutches.

 

Really.....

Harley has been using electric starters made in Japan since `88 or thereabouts...