I went with the S&S 570 gear driven cams in my 2009 FLTRSE3.

With the stock low compression ratio it looked like from all I could read and the recommendations of the installer that this would be the cam of choice.

After the dyno I have 104 foot pounds torque and 99 horse power.

The problem, if you can call it a problem, is that I read the cams would give low and mid range torque. Well from idle it starts out at 75 lbs and drops to 70 lbs at 2500 rpm. It then starts to slope up slowly until you hit 3500-4000 rpm with 104 lbs. The dyno guy has a very flat fuel curve of 13.7. I have removed the CAT and installed CFR slip-ons before the dyno.

After riding it now for over 2500 miles I find that it hesitates about 2850 rpm then once you’re over 3100 it explodes and pulls away. Anyway I find that the low end torque was better with the stock cams. The mid range is where the big change happens. I also own a 2007 FXSTSSE with the 110B. It is stock outside of pipes and a dyno with the SERT. Although the Dynojet reading is in STD not SAE like the Road Glide, the curve is near straight up from idle and holds then drops off slowly as rpm increases. This bike could throw a passenger off the back. The Road Glide is doggy under 3000 rpm. The best way to understand how it affected the bike, "it now has longer legs". Seems like you want the rpm to run between 3000 and 4000 all the time and the bike doesn’t seem to sound rapped out like the stock cams did.

The question I have is, do you think the dyno guy did a good job or could I get better low end torque with a better dyno? I was recommended to take it to Jarrs in Canada for the best dyno.

 

please post your dyno sheets to get a better idea. It shouldnt hesitate. It will be somewhat doggy below the curve but shouldnt hesitate, pop, jerk, etc...

Obviously with milder cams the curve would be more "cruiser friendly". I personally have always liked the S+S 570G's and have installed them in many 88ci TC's along with 95ci big bore kit, ported heads, power commander, and pipes. Ive never had a situation where it was hesitant below 3k rpm. I mean you cant lug it like bone stock bike but at 2-2500rpm it felt good. of course power is a lil farther up but that is the nature of high lift, long duration cams.

 

Jarz Performance can ace the tune, as we know of their ability, BUT that should be at 10.4 compression for that cam grind, but it'll still be semi-sluggish.
IF 10.25 cr was used, with a Wood 7H, then it would act like turning on a light switch.
Scott

 

Scotty is correct the compression and stock restriction of the heads are holding you back. if the pull was in std do you have one in sae to compare it too.
. i bet the sae # are well below 100. the 570 is a good cam. needs some compression tho.
with those stock heads and that compression a 37 or 26 andrews would of been better.

 

Here’s the dyno chart.

I guess what I’m looking for is that smile that comes with the rush that comes after cracking the throttle. I think most of you know what I’m talking about.

I would have stayed stock except I heard so many good things about the gear driven cams. No time delay at higher rpm, less energy loss than the chain, less moving parts to go bad and so on. Upon deciding to go with the gear driven the next thing was what cams being the stock ones will be removed? So like I said earlier the 570s had a lot of things written about them. I’m not sure I would want to change to higher compression pistons and high flow heads. Maybe after I have 50K on the bike or so I might consider it. I like the way my Springer performs. With the slightly lower gearing in the Road Glide and reading about the 570s I thought that it might have the same neck breaking torque. I wouldn’t say I am dissatisfied with it now just thought it would be a steeper curve like my Springer.

As to the dyno SAE or STD. I’ve read about this reading also and not that I fully understand all that I know about it I would say the SAE is more accurate. Also I noticed I read vertical instead of horizontal and it is 88 hp and 104 ft-lbs. My Springer is in STD with 95 hp and 110 ft-lbs. You can see on the charts how much steeper the Springer curve is.

Here’s one more thing I’ve heard and would like to know if it’s true. The fly by wire throttle control does not allow full throttle in first and second gears? The dyno tech did say that he had a very hard time with the electronic throttle.

Yes I have considered buying a Buell or a V-Rod and if I could find a good 2005 Screaming Eagle V-Rod in the orange and black I’ probably buy it.

 

The dyno tune was not done properly
I live and my shop is in the PNW, Edgewood, WA
feel free to call or email me for tuning advice.
Jarz is good and there are a few others.
The FBW need tuning as well as the AFR and timing.
The hesitation is a tuning issue
The sluggish low speed when compared to the stock cam off idle will be that way with any cam. the stock cam is just super short, and it is all done at 4,000. If you want the everything cam then you can make the 570 look a lot better with headwork (including milling to bring the CR up) and a proper tune

 

10.5:1 CR with porting and re-tune. Run like a bandit!

 

the fbww does not let the t/b open up until 3000 rpm the tech is correct but with proper tuning the lower rm range can be tuned better.
as far as your numbers go they are pretty good altho a bit choppy i beleive more time on the dyno would of smoothed it out .
i have seeen 09 bikes with better heads cam and a tad bit more compression not do as well as the numbeers you have but then the bikes were tuned and the lines were smoother.
thats why Dave at JD's had doc come back last summer was to go over the fbw dyno tunes.

 

FBW presents no real obstacles for good tuners. Dave @ JD's does not have a problem with them, nor does Joe's Cycle Repair.
Scott

 

heres my 95" with head work 9.6:1 compression stock rejetted carb and v and h 2-1, just a basic run no real tuning (still needing to do that) with ss 570gs of course!!