I have a 2006 ultra classic 30000 miles needs new oil pump has anyone been there done that that could tell me the steps i do have a HD manual

Thanks Big-E

 

I'd be wondering why it needs an oil pump, myself. My 99 had the original pump up to 65K miles or so with no problems. There is/was an issue with the inner cam bearings failing, causing a catastrophic failure of the oil pump also, not sure if you had heard any of that for your specific model or not. Also have a good look at the cam chain tensioners, both inner and outer, they too are a common cause of catastrophic failure in these engines.

Anyway, the oil pump is located behind the cam support plate so you'll need to drain the engine oil, and remove spark plugs, exhaust, push rods/tappet blocks and lifters, cam/timing cover in order to get to the cam support plate and the oil pump itself.

Once you are inside, you can see the cam support plate with the cam gears and chain. After removing the lifters and tappet blocks, you will need to remove the cam drive gear from the crankshaft, and the cam chain.

You can use a short piece of 1/8" rod or even a cut wire hanger to hold the cam chain tensioner back from the chain. Simply depress the tensioner away from the chain to align the hole with the back plate and insert the 1/8" rod. They make a $35 tool for this if you like to spend money needlessly. I used a cleaned 1/8" welding rod.

After you have the cam chain and cam drive gear removed from the crankshaft, the cam support plate can be removed from the engine along with the cams all at one time, as a unit.

The oil pump is behind the cam support plate, on the crankshaft. There are four bolts holding the oil pump to the cam support plate, which should have been removed with the other bolts holding the cam support plate. When you remove the cam support plate, be ready to catch the oil pump planetary gears, (there won't be anything but your hand to stop them from dropping on the floor).

There is also a 'special tool' for positioning the oil pump properly on the cam support plate during re-installation. This 'tool' is actually a tapered shaft which is threaded on one end to fit into the bolt holes holding the oil pump to the cam support plate. The tool consists of two pieces, and they insure that the oil pump is aligned with the crankshaft. This is the same as the tappet block alignment tool.

Prior years, before the introduction of this special tool, installation instructions said to install the oil pump and cam support plate, leaving the four bolts just slightly more than finger tight, to allow the oil pump to move while it is being forced into a central position on the cam plate and still keep it in place once the alignment process is completed. Then rotate the engine several revolutions, aiding in centering the oil pump on the crankshaft and cam support plate. This is the method which I used, since I have a pet peeve concerning the 'special' tools suggested by HD. (The only thing I find special about them is their unbelievably high prices.)

Anyway, that's pretty much it, then reinstall everything according to the manual.

Other than that, you might want to look into up grading the cam chain tensioners while yer in there. I up graded to the SE Cam Support Plate with Hydraulic Tensioners, and High Volume Oil Pump. I also installed a Baisley spring into the cam support plate to give me better oil pressure. Again, I'm not sure if your '06 will need all this or not, but I'm sure some one else on the forum will probably be able to answer that...

 

Very good post CroK!

 

I'm with CroK.

I'd be waaaaay more concerned with the cause of failure than the repair itself.

Did you happen to find that out?

 

The only one I ever saw fail was on an EVO. A peice of something something went through the tube from the primary and jammed it. It broke the shear pin on the pump. One of the reasons the moco went to a sealed primary and kept the motor oil out of it.
The pump itself couldn't be simpler. Seems like it would have to be with the pump drive. ???

 

Tensioners falling apart, or excessive crank run-out could be devastating to the motor.

 

If I were going to open up the cam chest to replace my oil pump I would would buy the Screamin' Eagle® Hydraulic Cam Chain Tensioner Plate Upgrade Kit. This kit includes an oil pump and the necessary parts to swap out your chain tensioners. The kit is 25284-08. You would be taking care of 2 problems at once.

BTW, I am doing this mod this winter for peace of mind as far as the tensioners go.

 

To add, at 30k I'd replace the lifters while in there for peace of mind as well. There are also other things that can cause low oil pressure. Who was it that stated you need a new oil pump? A faulty/pinched o-ring can cause some symptoms. Wavy washer needing replacing can cause symptoms, needs to stand proud of gerotors, etc.

 

Thanks Crok you have been very helpful i am going to do it myself.Just to let you no i was about 2 blocks from home when it went to 0 oil presser i took it back home went and got a new oil sending unit put it on same thing 0 so i started the bike pulled the dip stick and no oil was coming back from the engine i new i was in trouble. Thanks Ernest From Cape Coral FL

 

Yep, sounds like you just might be looking at more than just an oil pump to me. I'll keep my fingers crossed for ya tho...

Hopefully, it's just a busted 0-ring where the oil pump connects to the engine casing behind the cam support plate. I'm not going to say anything further on that, hoping you have better luck than me.

Just make sure you check everything mentioned above, plus look for any play in the cam shafts. Once you take the cam plate off with the cams, look at the inner cam bearings to see if they have dropped any pins out. That's what I was talking about in my first post about inner cam bearing failure.

Also, as FastEd said, if you have a dial indicator available it wouldn't hurt to check your crankshaft runout. That is checked on the crankshaft where the cam support plate bushing rides. If I remember correctly, the limit is 0.003".

And after having read over my first post, I forgot to mention that the rocker boxes will need to be removed also, to release tension on the push rods. This will require you to remove the bolts holding the fuel tank in place. You don't have to completely remove the tank, just the bolts. Then raise the tank up being careful how the fuel lines are positioned, and use a 2x4 about 4-6 inches long to hold the tank up enough to allow removal of the rocker boxes. Once you get the top rocker box cover off, remove the two bolts from the breather assembly, and then the four bolts from the rocker supports to release the tension on the push rods.

Do keep us posted. I'm sure everyone else would be just as interested as I am to hear the results after you get it opened up for inspection.