How do I Flush Out All The Oil In My Engine?
#1
How do I Flush Out All The Oil In My Engine?
I know I got alot of posts on the fourm,can't ride till I go to the safty course THIS WEEKEND (monday DMV and get on my bike and ride)
Got the bike Feb 9th 2010 had nothing but time till now.
So I'm doing alot of maintence to start at a date I can log from.
I heard that it's hard to get all the oil out of the engine,I remember something about a scavanger tool do I need that, if not how would I go about the task of getting all the oil out,or just drain it and refill.
The bike is in my sig picture the 2002 FLSTF,the engine is still breaking in from the 95 ci kit so the used oil worries me .
The bike got the 95ci kit done and went bad (ring cracked and scored the jugg)that happened before I owned it.(no warranty on it the shop he used is O.O.B) they treated alot of people here Vegas the same way.
The owner had new juggs & reringed now it has about 2k mi on the redo....The bike runs great....I want to try to keep it that way.
Thanks SPUD
Got the bike Feb 9th 2010 had nothing but time till now.
So I'm doing alot of maintence to start at a date I can log from.
I heard that it's hard to get all the oil out of the engine,I remember something about a scavanger tool do I need that, if not how would I go about the task of getting all the oil out,or just drain it and refill.
The bike is in my sig picture the 2002 FLSTF,the engine is still breaking in from the 95 ci kit so the used oil worries me .
The bike got the 95ci kit done and went bad (ring cracked and scored the jugg)that happened before I owned it.(no warranty on it the shop he used is O.O.B) they treated alot of people here Vegas the same way.
The owner had new juggs & reringed now it has about 2k mi on the redo....The bike runs great....I want to try to keep it that way.
Thanks SPUD
#2
If you warm up the engine before you change it, you should get virtually all the oil out. Harleys are dry sump engines so there is very little oil in the crankcase, especially when the engine has just been shut down. Any particles that remain should be picked up by the filter.
I've heard of running the engine while adding oil and letting it drain all at the same time. That pumps the old oil out until it's 100 percent replaced by the new oil. I've never had the need to do that, though.
I've heard of running the engine while adding oil and letting it drain all at the same time. That pumps the old oil out until it's 100 percent replaced by the new oil. I've never had the need to do that, though.
#3
Huh, I asked that same question elsewhere recently. Warm it up drain the tank. Pull the filter and leave it off. Put 2 qts in the oil tank. Start the engine and watch the oil come out of the filter mount, when it is clean oil coming out ( you'll see ), shut the engine and put the new oil filter on. You need some kind of oil catcher to receive the puking oil coming out of the filter mount. The new filter should have some oil put into it before you install it. Check the oil level and fill as needed. If you do not suspect issues or gas in the oil as I did, MP has got your answer. This filter off method worked for my FXR - no scavenger needed, just catch the filter oil or do the job over cat litter!
And keep an eye on the fresh oil in the tank, don't let it run dry while running w/out the filter. I only got about 4 ozs of dirty oil out before the clean oil came bubbling out. Turns out that I did not have gas in the crankcase, just a leaky carb.
And keep an eye on the fresh oil in the tank, don't let it run dry while running w/out the filter. I only got about 4 ozs of dirty oil out before the clean oil came bubbling out. Turns out that I did not have gas in the crankcase, just a leaky carb.
Last edited by Artlee; 04-20-2010 at 11:30 PM.
#4
Huh, I asked that same question elsewhere recently. Warm it up drain the tank. Pull the filter and leave it off. Put 2 qts in the oil tank. Start the engine and watch the oil come out of the filter mount, when it is clean oil coming out ( you'll see ), shut the engine and put the new oil filter on. You need some kind of oil catcher to receive the puking oil coming out of the filter mount. The new filter should have some oil put into it before you install it. Check the oil level and fill as needed. If you do not suspect issues or gas in the oil as I did, MP has got your answer. This filter off method worked for my FXR - no scavenger needed, just catch the filter oil or do the job over cat litter!
I'll keep this post for awile for others to read
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/oil-r...e-softail.html
Last edited by Rockrspud; 04-20-2010 at 11:43 PM. Reason: add to it
#6
Check on my last post I found an old post from HDF,I think that I'll do that change just leave my cooler conected and run till clear oil comes out
#7
After your oil change you could temporarily replace the drain plug dump another quart down it - wait a little while and pull the plug again to kinda rinse things out. Unless you had a lot of metal on the drain plug magnet I would not worry about it.
On a new bike or a new build I have always changed at 100 miles then 1000 then 2500.
On a new bike or a new build I have always changed at 100 miles then 1000 then 2500.
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#8
Fill with Gas, replace cap, shake bike side to side, start and run till it clatters loudly, put bike back on stand, pull oil cap back off, lay on floor, remove drain plug, light a cig while watching gas pour out...No Really man, dont do any of that.
#9
Pull drain plug, take off old filter, put on new filter, replace drain plug, fill with oil, go riding. You're done in 20 minutes, but be warned- the engine will only last about 200,000 miles doing it this way.
The other way: buy scavenger kit for $100+, suck out old oil. Remove filter, pour several quarts of expensive $10/qt synthetic into oil bag, start engine and blow out that last 1/4 oz of old oil. Kick self in nuts for pumping $10 worth of expensive synthetic oil onto garage floor and all over shiny bike. Spend an hour & a half cleaning floor and bike, cursing self loudly for not using hose to catch oil in drain pan. Fill filter partially with new expensive oil, then hold filter horizontally and install. Curse self loudly for spilling another $3 worth of expensive oil onto garage floor and front of bike. Spend another 20 minutes cleaning up mess. Kick self in nuts again for making same mistake twice. Tighten filter per spec. Reinstall drain plug, and add prescribed amount of oil. Go riding. Only took two & a half hours, two bruised *****, and your engine will no doubt thank you for all of its 200,003 mile life.
The other way: buy scavenger kit for $100+, suck out old oil. Remove filter, pour several quarts of expensive $10/qt synthetic into oil bag, start engine and blow out that last 1/4 oz of old oil. Kick self in nuts for pumping $10 worth of expensive synthetic oil onto garage floor and all over shiny bike. Spend an hour & a half cleaning floor and bike, cursing self loudly for not using hose to catch oil in drain pan. Fill filter partially with new expensive oil, then hold filter horizontally and install. Curse self loudly for spilling another $3 worth of expensive oil onto garage floor and front of bike. Spend another 20 minutes cleaning up mess. Kick self in nuts again for making same mistake twice. Tighten filter per spec. Reinstall drain plug, and add prescribed amount of oil. Go riding. Only took two & a half hours, two bruised *****, and your engine will no doubt thank you for all of its 200,003 mile life.
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aecs (08-07-2017)
#10
I never bother scavenging a new motor. What I do is change the oil at 100,500 and 1000 miles. By 1000 you have all the debris out. The 100 mile change gets the vast majority of it. BTW I only change the filter at 500 & 1000. After that there is really no metal on the magnet.