I recently changed my triple trees and fork sliders. Here are some pics. Note: to install fork seals you need a specialty tools that runs anywhere from $40 - $80. I made mine for under $5 with parts from a local hardware store. I used Burley 2" lowering springs and 2" shorter fork tubes.

Installing the new black slider is simple. Here are the parts. Bushing, washer, seal and retaining clip.



Here are the tools.

1.5" isd pvc pipe, coupling and a 2" pipe.



After you have reinstalled the dampner and springs into the slider and tube, place the bushing then the washer then the seal onto the fork tube.



Next, place the pvc pipe over the tube as shown. The 1.5" pipe should fit inside the slider.







Next, place the bottom of the slider on some towels and get a big hammer. This will take some effort to get the bushing in place. It took about 3 to 4 good hits. Once you see the grove for the snap ring your done. Make sure all sides snap into place.







After that, figure out how much oil your going to need. My preference is to use the Screamin Eagle Heavy Oil. Each tube will take 9 to 11 ounces depending on your model. The FL tubes take more. Lastly, don't forget to put the covers on the sliders before you install them back on the triple trees........

Now on to the Pro One Internal Fork Stop. With the front end removed, I used a Jim's Neck Race tool to pop out the lower bearing race. This tool comes in very handy. You can see how the part is split in half so you can put each piece inside the neck then slide the handle in and attach it. You can use a curved / bent screwdriver but it can be a PITA.





Here are the DNA Tribal Triple Trees that I picked up. Notice the internal fork stop and new race with the 1/4" extended part.



I cleaned the lower neck with carb cleaner then applied a chit load of Red Locktite to the race then installed it using the same tool I used to remove it.







Here is a shot of the front end installed.

 

Very Nice Work!! So did you use long or short travel for the fork stop?

 

I used the Long. No problems.

 

What about the ground wire? you leave off or relocate when reinstalled?

 

I was looking at this internal fork stop solution for my build I have going on. I was skeptical as to whether or not it would budge once pressed into the neck.

Does it seem sturdy with just the red loctite?

 

I just finished installing some new trees too, and that tool from Jims is the trick. I also used the internal fork stop from Pro-One but mated to some trees from HHI. The only issue I had was having to put .020" shim between the stop on the the lower tree and the lower neck bearing.

Sheers44, I left the ground wire off.

Incrediblah, The lower bearing cup/fork stop is a very tight fit and as in the before pixs, it's knurled. Add some red locktight and I don't think it'll go anywhere. As a thought on installing the bearing cup, it may make it easier to install by chilling it in the freezer but the condensation from warming up may hamper the locktight.

 

Story808 has this Kit and Tx_Outlaw ran it till he went too a springer front end. And JTMurphy has it too and not heard any complaints yet. Ha and I hope to have mine done by the weekend.

 

Great write up man... Wish I had this to look at when I did mine... lol

I left my ground wire off also!

 

Yup, left the ground wire off. I had to beat the lower stop on and like I cut 1 said it's knurled and I put a azz load of red lock tite on it. I think the only way it's going to move is if I end up in the ditch...knock on wood.....

 

I will be using the Red Loctite for sure on this install and no ground wire. I made my own Race installer if it works I'll post some pics. Can't wait to get this thing done and back in one piece!! Great thread thanks for the help you guys.