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My Andrews 30t Pulley Install

  #1  
Old 06-27-2010, 07:35 AM
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Default My Andrews 30t Pulley Install

Well I was going to go riding but since it's raining ***** outside I will hold off for a bit. so here goes.......
step 1-pull battery, then drain primary fluid. I drained all mine.
step 2-jack up and get secure. yes that is the 89.00 sears jack and a 2x4. works great for me.

step 3-pull outer primary

step 4-remove chain tensioner( I inspected it looked great with 7500 miles)

step 5-remove snap ring

step 6-remove clutch adjuster plate it will just pull out

step 7-mark the outside of the chain, I used a peice of wire but paint marker would be fine
step 8-remove clutch nut, this is left handed but not that tight, second picture shows the wedge in place



step 9-remove compensator bolt, that one was tight, kinda feels like it is breaking off, I suppose because of the compensator, it will flex, this is regular right handed

step 10-remove clutch basket and compensator

bare inner primary
 
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Old 06-27-2010, 07:36 AM
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step 1-gotta remove battery box to acsess the starter bolts


step 2-remove the starter bolts, there is two


step 3-remove the 5 inner primary bolts, you will need new one's they are sealing bolts and cost 12.00 from harley

step 4-remove the inner primary

step 5-remove primary nut locking plate two bolts

step 6-install the pilot bushing for the socket

step 7-remove lower belt gaurd, then install the final drive sprocket tool....now that dagum nut, this thing is tight, so what are going to do is say to yourself it cannot be that tight, then break every 1/2 drive breaker bar, or ratchet and then have to figure on how to get off. I had to use a electric impact, this gun had 550 ft# of torque in reverse and didnt hardly budge it, I beat on it for 10 seconds at a time 6 times before it came loose. then it took another minute or two bumping it before it came all the way of. this is right handed.

step 8- change pulley, super easy just pull off and replace, my belt was fairly loose.
step 9-clean theads, pulley nut, locking plate, and locking plate bolts, then apply new red lock tight. apply a thin layer of oil to the pulley nut on the inside face, what meets the pulley torque big nut to 35 lb, back off and then re-torque to 35lb. then make a mark and tighten and additional 45*. this makes it very tight!! then install plate and torque to 100 inch lb.

step 10- adjust belt, take the right and left axle loose and the the then adjust the two allen heads on back of swing arm, do them evenly. it took me 2.75 turns to get it set, this would be a good time to aling you bike.
 

Last edited by jshull; 08-25-2010 at 02:42 PM.
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Old 06-27-2010, 07:36 AM
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step 1-install new inner primary gasket, it snaps to the motor, has some tabs. I looked at the used one and you could probably reused it, i chose not to, better to be safe than sorry, then install inner primary, and finger tight the 5 sealing bolts. then go throught the sequence to tighten them to 25 ft pounds. then install the starter.

step 2- have some help. install the clutch basket and compensator, they are a little of a pain two people make it much better, slid it up on and flush, then clean the clutch nut and the compensator bolt. use some red lock tite and finger thread them on, tighten comp bolt to 100ft pounds, then back off a full turn and re torque to 140ft pounds, on to the clutch 75ft pounds, and dont forget it left handed threads!!
step 3-collapse the tensioner and put it in place, I cleaned the threads and blue locktited mine, I then torqued to 20 ft pounds. you can zip tie it while collapsed if you dont have three hands. i just happen to have four so I skiped that step. put the clutch adjuster plate back, and the snap ring.
step 4-I also installed a barnet heave clucth spring, if you made it this far it is very easy. remove the 6 clutch basket bolts change spring and tighten back up, i cleaned my bolts and blue lock tite'd them and torqued them to 100 in lbs. then adjust the clutch.

step 5-put the outer primary on, and pull the derby cover, tighten the bolts to 110 in pounds. tighten them in sequence in manual.
step 6-add primary and transmission fluid of your choice


step 7- button up and go!!!!!!
I would like to say this was fairley easy, my biggest tool was the manual, the manual is the best money i have spent on the bike, everything you need is outlined in it, made this super easy, I would suggest two people because it will make things easier, at least for removing/installing the clutch basket and compesator. I wa lucky enough to borrow the tools needed, he bought them at georges garage. I would highly reccomend this pulley, made in town riding/take offs great, 6th is now usable, it pulls hard in all gears, this is how it should have come from factory. the heavy clutch spring is well heavy, it sure grips, but you better have a hell of a left hand!!! anyway it has stopped raining so I am out!

p.s. staytuned I have andrews 54h and adjustable pushrods sitting waiting on some cash for bean @ big boyz so I get my heads done, 100hp 96" ya it can be done, and I will prove it soon!
 

Last edited by jshull; 06-27-2010 at 08:45 AM.
  #4  
Old 06-27-2010, 08:36 AM
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Subscribed . Great write up !!!!
 
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Old 06-27-2010, 08:49 AM
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Awesome write up.
 
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Old 06-27-2010, 08:58 AM
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great write up...thank you for taking the time...

part and tool list would be cool
 
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Old 06-27-2010, 09:00 AM
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AWESOME
 
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Old 06-27-2010, 09:22 AM
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Great pictures, great detail, does not come any better then this.
One question if you have the time. Picture 6. I assume the pilot bushing for the sleeve supports the long socket since the nut has such little support and you could get it off with an impact but you would need this support to support socket while you torque the nut tight?
 
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Old 06-27-2010, 09:30 AM
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Awesome, absolutely awesome, all of it man, well except maybe the sears red jack, but the rest of it was very nice, THANKS................
And enjoy that new ride
 
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Old 06-27-2010, 09:47 AM
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Thank you for this thread. Will come in handy in a week. Mike
 

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