Sportster engine sprocket removal
#1
08-14-2010, 09:00 AM
Sportster engine sprocket removal
I know a few here have changed their stator and I know how it goes. What I need to know is what size bolts did you use to pull your front engine sprocket.
(my clutch pack is already loose and ready to come off).
I have a rather large bolt collection and I went through every one and could not find one to fit.
I am also under the impression that the threads are on the bottom of the sprocket.
I see the puller (tool) listed for this is part number HD-97292-61. But to pull the sprocket you have to supply your own bolts. I have had no luck searching finding the size of the bolts used.
I have already made a puller and this is where I'm stuck. I need to get my parts ordered and I want to inspect the magnets on the pulley before I do.
Thanks.
(my clutch pack is already loose and ready to come off).
I have a rather large bolt collection and I went through every one and could not find one to fit.
I am also under the impression that the threads are on the bottom of the sprocket.
I see the puller (tool) listed for this is part number HD-97292-61. But to pull the sprocket you have to supply your own bolts. I have had no luck searching finding the size of the bolts used.
I have already made a puller and this is where I'm stuck. I need to get my parts ordered and I want to inspect the magnets on the pulley before I do.
Thanks.
Last edited by xFreebirdx; 08-14-2010 at 09:03 AM.
#2
08-14-2010, 01:17 PM
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You have to remove the rotor from the sprocket by pressing from the inside of the rotor.
You just need to loosen the bolt and the assembly should come off somewhat easily.
You can check the magnets without separating the rotor assembly.
According to my manual, the bolt is a one-time-use item.
You just need to loosen the bolt and the assembly should come off somewhat easily.
You can check the magnets without separating the rotor assembly.
According to my manual, the bolt is a one-time-use item.
#3
08-14-2010, 05:47 PM
You have to remove the rotor from the sprocket by pressing from the inside of the rotor.
You just need to loosen the bolt and the assembly should come off somewhat easily.
You can check the magnets without separating the rotor assembly.
According to my manual, the bolt is a one-time-use item.
You just need to loosen the bolt and the assembly should come off somewhat easily.
You can check the magnets without separating the rotor assembly.
According to my manual, the bolt is a one-time-use item.
Sorry it has taken so long to reply but the internet is still down at my house and I have to come to work to use the net.
You mean that the sprocket should just come off the shaft by hand? Here is a pic of what I mean. See the 4 small bolt holes on the sprocket. I'm talking about putting a couple bolts in them to pull it off the shaft. I'm not worried about seperating the sprocket and the rotor, just removing the assembly from the shaft. I have the big nut off the shaft so I'm not sure of the BOLT that you speak of.
Yes I have a manual.
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Last edited by xFreebirdx; 08-14-2010 at 05:50 PM.
#4
08-14-2010, 06:24 PM
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Sorry it has taken so long to reply but the internet is still down at my house and I have to come to work to use the net.
You mean that the sprocket should just come off the shaft by hand? Here is a pic of what I mean. See the 4 small bolt holes on the sprocket. I'm talking about putting a couple bolts in them to pull it off the shaft. I'm not worried about seperating the sprocket and the rotor, just removing the assembly from the shaft. I have the big nut off the shaft so I'm not sure of the BOLT that you speak of.
Yes I have a manual.
You mean that the sprocket should just come off the shaft by hand? Here is a pic of what I mean. See the 4 small bolt holes on the sprocket. I'm talking about putting a couple bolts in them to pull it off the shaft. I'm not worried about seperating the sprocket and the rotor, just removing the assembly from the shaft. I have the big nut off the shaft so I'm not sure of the BOLT that you speak of.
Yes I have a manual.
It still shouldn't be a press fit onto the shaft because it's splined - slight interference fit, maybe. The magnets in the rotor keep it from sliding off when you remove the nut.
If I had to guess, the bolt holes look like 5/16" to me. Maybe 3/8". It's got to be one or the other.
(I hate responding to mechanical questions because I always look stupid.)
#5
08-14-2010, 07:16 PM
Thanks for the help man, but the former owner of NRHS, Aaron (aswracing - XL Forums) helped me get it off. I'll quote his answers here. 
aswracing
XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
aswracing
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They normally slide off by hand. Is yours stuck?
I assume you took the big nut off, right?
The only ones I have trouble with, in terms of sticking, is on an S&S crank. S&S sprocket shafts seem to be a touch bigger and they like to stick. I have a 3 jaw puller with a lock ring and it pulls those right off.
But on stock cranks, they generally just come off by hand.
I assume you took the big nut off, right?
The only ones I have trouble with, in terms of sticking, is on an S&S crank. S&S sprocket shafts seem to be a touch bigger and they like to stick. I have a 3 jaw puller with a lock ring and it pulls those right off.
But on stock cranks, they generally just come off by hand.
I just looked at a front sprocket and the holes are not tapped all the way through. In other words the bolts come in from the inside (holding the rotor to the sprocket) but since the bolt holes are not tapped all the way, you're not going to be able to screw puller bolts onto the outside. The bolts are 1/4-20 but that does you no good.
The pulley I'm looking at though is the later model, 8 bolt unit. Your bike probably has a 4 bolt unit and I don't have one of those handy, it could be different and have the holes all the way tapped, but I doubt it.
They upgraded to the 8 bolt units in 2001 or so because Buells were shearing the bolts off. There was also a pretty important upgrade to the primary tensioner that you should do while you're in there, if yours is still the original. When the old thin unit fails it's really ugly.
But anyway, if you really need to pull that sprocket, get a good 3 jaw locking puller and be done with it.
The pulley I'm looking at though is the later model, 8 bolt unit. Your bike probably has a 4 bolt unit and I don't have one of those handy, it could be different and have the holes all the way tapped, but I doubt it.
They upgraded to the 8 bolt units in 2001 or so because Buells were shearing the bolts off. There was also a pretty important upgrade to the primary tensioner that you should do while you're in there, if yours is still the original. When the old thin unit fails it's really ugly.
But anyway, if you really need to pull that sprocket, get a good 3 jaw locking puller and be done with it.
#6
08-14-2010, 07:32 PM
Cruiser
#7
08-14-2010, 08:07 PM
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#9
06-03-2012, 05:32 AM
Cruiser
Sorry if this thread is already closed, but would you mind telling me what you ended up doing here? Did you just buy a 3-jaw puller and take the sprocket off or what? I ran into this same problem the other day when I was trying to change out the stator in my 02 model 1200. The book doesn't say **** about it either...