Hi all,

You may remember I had ATF leaking into my primary and I took it all apart.

Gearbox leak was fixed (and some bearings replaced), is now back in the frame.

I decide to upgrade to a five finger clutch hub and also bought a diaphragm spring clutch release kit. However it did not come with fitting instructions..

So: new hub is on the bike, new hub nut used, clutch basket is also on, as is the belt and the plates/liners are in with pressure plate (flat side in) on top. Then the diaphragm spring? Which way should it bend? Then I guess pressure plate and put the bolts on the hubs to tighten the plate.

How far should I screw in those bolts (how much pressure do I put on the spring)? What is the precise sequence for adjustment and do the instructions in the manual still apply?

Appreciate all the tips/help I can get.

Cheers
Paul

 

Post a pic or the brand name so I can see which setup you have they are all different for adjusting , I most likely have paper for it .
TB

 

http://www.vtwinmfg.com/Instructions/18/18-0540.pdf

Above the (not very helpful) link to fitting instructions that supplier gave me. The pic is from the kit I got, it has some branding details on it (Sifton?).

I did mention to the supplier that mine is a stock 1978 FLH and I do not have the later manual, so no idea how the supplier thinks "refering to the manual" is actually gonna help me.

I have managed to put the whole thing together, the main issue I am guessing at is how much pressure to put on the spring whilst tightening the nuts, plus the exact sequence of assembly.

Any help appreciated!

Paul

 

McBoney, you get this assembled you have to promise to post pics (as you assemble and of the final assembly) and give us an evaluation of the upgrade...

That being said...from the 85-90 Softail manual

Diaphragm Spring Adjustment
Lay a straightedge across the face of the diaphragm spring. The spring should be within 0.010. If the spring is bowed outward (convex), the adjuster plate is moved to the next hole position for greater compression. If the spring is dished inward (concave) the spring is moved to the next hole of lesser compression.

If an adjustment is required, remove bolts by backing out each alternately 1/2 to 1 turn until spring pressure is relieved. Position adjuster plate at the mounting hole which will give the correct adjustment.

Reinstall bolts and tighten in a across pattern to 6.5 to 8 ft lbs. Adjust hand lever.

Assembly

Place steel discs and friction discs alternately over hub abd onto drum starting and ending with a steel disc.

Position hub and drum onto mainshaft.

Attach hub nut (left hand thread) 50 to 60 ft lbs

Stack pressure plate, spring diaphragm and adjuster plate against hub with holes aligned (NOTE: the convex side of the spring diaphragm must face out when reassembled)

Insert washer and bolts and tighten to 6.5 to 8 ft lbs.

One other thing they note also is the the retaining ring (circlip) must have the beveled edge facing outward upon assembly.

Adjust diaphragm spring

 

I run that same setup on my 93" you'll like it take's all the stupid out of a shovel clutch , no drag when hot and hooks up solid and finding neutral is sweet . Works the best if you have of those $20 Ram Jett nylon retainers instead of the little tin one & the coil springs to hold the hub bearings in .

Adjustment on those is simple , assemble everything as normal putting the plates in the big alum. pressure plate last , the spring plate goes on concave high side out and put on the smaller alum. spring retainer plate on to hold it centered make sure the fingers on the spring plate catch on the grove on the retainer . Put the spacers on the 5 studs with the nuts and tighten them down till the spring plate starts to compress . 1/2 to 3/4 turns each stud work them all down while using a straight edge on the spring plate and a .010" feeler gauge till the spring plate is flat all way around it's better to have a little rock on the straight edge than a gap you see or get the gauge into . Your done that simple .
There is a decent pic in the above post kinda showing this , not the same parts just procedure .

Pan4ever please educate my dumbazz on the proper way to post pics like that please I never get it right . I've got paper on most of the aftermarket parts for shovels the last 25yrs but no idea how to post in a forum like this and still have it readable .

 

Twitzed, I use photobucket and under the reply section the 'manage attachments'. The copy the image and upload. Wife showed me how to do it. Photobucket keeps you pic at about 84-90% so it is still readable.

Also was looking at the parts for this set up. Confirm it uses the stock shell and plates (steel and friction)? Looks like a pretty clean way to update and avoid most of the old clutch assembly/setup/adjustment problems.

 

Hands downs this is the simplest , cleanest fix for shovel 4sp. clutch headaches I've seen in 30yrs . You use either stock shell or belt drives ( I run dual belts ) with stock or Hi-po plates only addition is the Ram Jett retainer, gives you a 2 finger clutch . I've installed these on 74's up to my big azz 93" with no hick ups but I run a Kevlar 6 plate in mine , have a problem with too much happy hand on occasion . If you get the Sifton set up all the parts are very good quality not like most of the chessy china crap out anymore and that kit is available through V-Twin catalog

http://www.vtwinmfg.com/NewVtwinWeb/

page 505 part # 18-0540

I'm taking mine down in a couple of weeks to put a bigger tranny sprocket on and I'll do the picture thing and post some if interested .

Thanks for heads up on photobucket I'll go try and get educated , aside video games computers and I still doing the get to know you better thing .


PS ; I have good set up sheet from a different brand name kit I'll try to find and post it's simple stupid complete with pictures .

 

Twizted, would appreciate pics. Got a 56 pan project that would go with this set up.

 

For about $140 you open the box and see everything you just can't believe it's that's simple but it is . I've followed a few of your tips you've got skills you'll have no problem with this one take that on a bit of faith please . Post back as soon as I get started .

 

Hi all,

The way it is described means that a 0.010 gap will set the correct pressure across the spring. That is the main info I needed. Thank you very much for the explanations, it all makes sense now.

I have to say that the simplicity of this vs the old set up made me suspicious that maybe I didn't have all the parts but obviously it was designed that way.

Although I have already set the whole thing up I am still waiting for a clutch hub nut seal to be delivered (the bit that went wrong and set this whole thing off) so when I get that I will do the pic/description thing and post here. I have done this before on other forums (for cars) so should be OK.

This weekend hopefully!

Cheers
Paul