Anyone out there put a battery isolator and a second battery on the full dresser.

I frequently put the bike in ignition accesory mode to hear music and run air pumps, polishers, etc and worry how long I can go before the bike won't start due to power drain.

a battery isolator would allow the install of a second battery. during engine run, both batteries would charge. during non-run ignition accessory mode use, the accesories would run off the accesory battery, while isolating the main battery for engine start. once the engie starts, both batteries charge. Even if I drain the accesory battery, the engine will always start of the main battery.

I need to study the wiring on the bike to determine optimal install of the isolator.

Thinking of getting a gel battery and installing it in one of my side bags. The gel batteries won't leak battery fluid. I don't think I need a large battery for the accesory position.

need to find a charging system schematic to study optimal placement of the isolator.

SO, has anyone done this?

I'll post my findings as I move forward.

I'll be using a 30 amp continuous, 47 amp surge isolator about the size of a domino chip. I'll physically install the isolator in the space forward of the battery box, under the seat. Electircally, I need to review a schematic to determine the ideal electrical connection point back to the starter and accesory circut.

 

Ok, I reviewed the schematic.

looks like it will be pretty easy to add the isolator. I 'll come back and do a confirm, once I have done it.

the schematic shows the first connection from the voltage regulator goes to a copper stud. from the copper stud, a wire goes to the starter/batter circut. also from the copper stud, a second wire goes to the main fuse box, ig switc, etc.

so I'll start byt replacing the copper stud with the battery isolator. disconnecting all three wires from the copper stud. i'll connect the voltage regulator wire which used to go to the copper stud to terminal #2 on my isolator (charge terminal). i'll connect the starter/battery wire which used to go to the copper stud to terminal #1 on my isolator (main battery/starter position). and, i'll connect the main fusebox/accessory wire which used to go to the copper stud to terminal #3 on my battery isolator (accessory battery position). I'll need to add a new battery connection grade wire from terminal #3 on my isolator to my accesory battery pos terminal. I'll need to add a battery grade wire from my accessory battery neg terminal to ground.

 

Well in my case it is a little different, running a sidecar I have a full size Optima battery in the trunk of the hack. I don’t have an isolator and both batteries are hook together, running a 350 watt converter in the sidecar for electric blanket and laptop. Also when it is cold I have a full set of gerbring from the heated soles, pant liners, jacket liner, gloves. The young man that rides in the hack, who is wheelchair bound, has when it is cold, the pant liners and jacket, and then I run the electric blanket to keep him rather toasty, not a problem yet…….knock on wood. But would like to hear how your project turns out, with an extra battery in a saddle bag, might throw you a little off balance unless you weight the other with the same size load. Just a thought.

turtleman

 

I also want to do a before and after measurement of reverse current into the stator windings. There seems to be quite a bit of blown regulators associtated with folks using car battery chargers on their bikes. Regulators are semi-conductors all of which have reverse current leakage. The stator windings has ver low impedeance. A reverse current short ( low grade chargers have poor ripple filtering) would blow the semi-conductors in the regulator. The battery isolator would add two stages of reverse current gates inbetween the regulator and the primary battery (the battery likely to be involved in external recharing senerios).

 

I've only done that on a fishing boat. Got the isolator from J.C. Whitney. It is an easy hook up. three terminals on the isolator. center one is the positive lead from the alternator. Then connect one each to the battery positive post. Alternator charges both batteries and diodes prevent the batteries from feeding back. Works forever.

By the way all motorcycle battery makers recommend not charging a cycle battery over 1.5 amps. That is why most tenders are 1.5 amps.

 

Very interested in this project !!