103 cu. in. to 110 cu.in Modification
#1
103 cu. in. to 110 cu.in Modification
Hey everyone, I am new to the Triglide family, I just put my down payment on my 2011 yesterday. I am looking at doing some modifications based on a lot of the feedback I have read here (thank you all) to deal with the heat and lack of power.
One thing my dealer threw out to me was to bore out the 103 to 110 cu.in. Has anyone done this on the Tri-glide?
I am adding Vance and Hines exhaust system, SE air cleaner, and SE Stage 1. If I dont do the bore I was going to do the cams, would like to do Wood TW-555 cam but dont want to void warranty so will likely go with SE 255 or Se 259E.
Does anyone think the bore is a good idea.
One thing my dealer threw out to me was to bore out the 103 to 110 cu.in. Has anyone done this on the Tri-glide?
I am adding Vance and Hines exhaust system, SE air cleaner, and SE Stage 1. If I dont do the bore I was going to do the cams, would like to do Wood TW-555 cam but dont want to void warranty so will likely go with SE 255 or Se 259E.
Does anyone think the bore is a good idea.
#2
Welcome, I dont know anyone who has done the conversion to 110". The 103" TG has power you just need to nudge it a little with a few mods which also tie into heat reduction.
Our big complaint for power was on the '09-'10 models with the 32 tooth primary belt pulley which the MoCo finally addressed on the '11 models with the 30 tooth pulley change that most of us have done.
Our big complaint for power was on the '09-'10 models with the 32 tooth primary belt pulley which the MoCo finally addressed on the '11 models with the 30 tooth pulley change that most of us have done.
Last edited by icebite1; 03-11-2011 at 10:31 AM.
#3
#4
Hey everyone, I am new to the Triglide family, I just put my down payment on my 2011 yesterday. I am looking at doing some modifications based on a lot of the feedback I have read here (thank you all) to deal with the heat and lack of power.
One thing my dealer threw out to me was to bore out the 103 to 110 cu.in. Has anyone done this on the Tri-glide?
I am adding Vance and Hines exhaust system, SE air cleaner, and SE Stage 1. If I dont do the bore I was going to do the cams, would like to do Wood TW-555 cam but dont want to void warranty so will likely go with SE 255 or Se 259E.
Does anyone think the bore is a good idea.
One thing my dealer threw out to me was to bore out the 103 to 110 cu.in. Has anyone done this on the Tri-glide?
I am adding Vance and Hines exhaust system, SE air cleaner, and SE Stage 1. If I dont do the bore I was going to do the cams, would like to do Wood TW-555 cam but dont want to void warranty so will likely go with SE 255 or Se 259E.
Does anyone think the bore is a good idea.
The SE259e has some pros and cons. Pros, it will bite decent on the bottom end and carry through a much higher RPM range. Con, you have to replace pistons with high compression pistons, you have to change out the valve springs and it may give you warranty grief. Another con is due to the bump in compression your going to have issues with poor quality fuels.
My dad an I both ran the SE255 for around 7, 000 - 10,000 miles last summer and it did work quite well at getting the trike moving along. The down side was when we got into some bad fuel while out west and had to run octane booster so it would not ping.
#6
I'd dump the factory catalytic converter equipped head pipe in favor of either the Fuelmoto Jackpot head pipe or the Fullsac X pipe head pipe, then tune it with either the SEPST or the TTS. If your looking for a little more I'd swap out the SE255 cams with the Woods TW-555. I'd also swap out the factory oil cooler with either the Jagg 10 row or the Ultra Cool. I went to the Jagg 10 row and saw a nice improvement vs the factory oil cooler.
I'm sure you know when they do the 110 they have to remove the engine from the chassis and break it down so they can bore the spigots in the block to accommodate the 4" bore cylinders of the 110.
I'm sure you know when they do the 110 they have to remove the engine from the chassis and break it down so they can bore the spigots in the block to accommodate the 4" bore cylinders of the 110.
#7
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#8
IMO You should do things that can be done in process with each other (I didnt put that very well) ie: wrap the headpipe while you have it off, change cams while the pipes are off also if you plan to change them so you dont have to remove them again and so on.
Last edited by icebite1; 03-11-2011 at 02:53 PM.
#9
mods
I guess I knew the answer before I asked the question, I was just hoping for an EZ fix. The worst part of changing the cams is pulling the pipes so it's foolish to do it twice. I think the woods 555 cams look like the best that are currently available, are there any vendors that have a good price on these as well as a non-cat header or is Jamie at Fuel Moto the best route to go with everything ? ? ? THANKS AGAIN ! ! !
#10
I guess I knew the answer before I asked the question, I was just hoping for an EZ fix. The worst part of changing the cams is pulling the pipes so it's foolish to do it twice. I think the woods 555 cams look like the best that are currently available, are there any vendors that have a good price on these as well as a non-cat header or is Jamie at Fuel Moto the best route to go with everything ? ? ? THANKS AGAIN ! ! !