Hey everyone, I am new to the Triglide family, I just put my down payment on my 2011 yesterday. I am looking at doing some modifications based on a lot of the feedback I have read here (thank you all) to deal with the heat and lack of power.

One thing my dealer threw out to me was to bore out the 103 to 110 cu.in. Has anyone done this on the Tri-glide?

I am adding Vance and Hines exhaust system, SE air cleaner, and SE Stage 1. If I dont do the bore I was going to do the cams, would like to do Wood TW-555 cam but dont want to void warranty so will likely go with SE 255 or Se 259E.

Does anyone think the bore is a good idea.

 

Welcome, I dont know anyone who has done the conversion to 110". The 103" TG has power you just need to nudge it a little with a few mods which also tie into heat reduction.

Our big complaint for power was on the '09-'10 models with the 32 tooth primary belt pulley which the MoCo finally addressed on the '11 models with the 30 tooth pulley change that most of us have done.

 

Thanks for the feedback, is replacing the cam going to help me with low end torque. Reading some of the posts is looks like the SE-255 is good at low end and bad at high end. The SE-259E might be better but then you have to replace the springs and pushrods as well.

 

I'm not a huge fan of the SE 110 without some modifications to help cool it and make it live. You voiced a concern for warranty which the SE259e cam surely may impact the warranty, the installing dealer may warranty it but a dealer 1,000 miles from home may call HD before they perform work and HD may say no dice. Now this would only impact you if you had a power train related failure and they thought the cam install caused it. Pros of the SE255 is it bites real hard on the bottom end and pulls well until about 4,200 rpm, it will have less of an impact on the warranty. Con of the SE255 is it runs out of breath around 4,200 rpm, due to the early intake close 25 deg it will boost the CCP up to around 200 which could be an issue if you can't find good quality fuel.

The SE259e has some pros and cons. Pros, it will bite decent on the bottom end and carry through a much higher RPM range. Con, you have to replace pistons with high compression pistons, you have to change out the valve springs and it may give you warranty grief. Another con is due to the bump in compression your going to have issues with poor quality fuels.

My dad an I both ran the SE255 for around 7, 000 - 10,000 miles last summer and it did work quite well at getting the trike moving along. The down side was when we got into some bad fuel while out west and had to run octane booster so it would not ping.

 

Msocko3, What mods would you recommend to the SE110 for heat

 

I'd dump the factory catalytic converter equipped head pipe in favor of either the Fuelmoto Jackpot head pipe or the Fullsac X pipe head pipe, then tune it with either the SEPST or the TTS. If your looking for a little more I'd swap out the SE255 cams with the Woods TW-555. I'd also swap out the factory oil cooler with either the Jagg 10 row or the Ultra Cool. I went to the Jagg 10 row and saw a nice improvement vs the factory oil cooler.

I'm sure you know when they do the 110 they have to remove the engine from the chassis and break it down so they can bore the spigots in the block to accommodate the 4" bore cylinders of the 110.

 

Has anybody just changed the header pipe W/O changing the cams or is it best to do the cams, pipe and tuner and if you do these mods to a 2011 is there a BIG and noticeable gain in power or is it mainly going to reduce the heat ? ? ?

 

I did all of the stuff piecemeal, I think many of us in the begining did it that way because this was new. Anyhow you now have all our collective effort in front of you on this forum and should be able to form your own plan of attack. These mods all complement each other, so big as in all together or a little each.
IMO You should do things that can be done in process with each other (I didnt put that very well) ie: wrap the headpipe while you have it off, change cams while the pipes are off also if you plan to change them so you dont have to remove them again and so on.

 

I guess I knew the answer before I asked the question, I was just hoping for an EZ fix. The worst part of changing the cams is pulling the pipes so it's foolish to do it twice. I think the woods 555 cams look like the best that are currently available, are there any vendors that have a good price on these as well as a non-cat header or is Jamie at Fuel Moto the best route to go with everything ? ? ? THANKS AGAIN ! ! !

 

I'm a little biased since I bought slip-ons, AC, P.C. V, and SS headpipe from Fuelmoto. I'm sure they'd give you a good deal on the Woods 555 cam.