How to Replace Idle Air Control (IAC) on 2007 EFI?
#5
07-31-2011, 12:08 PM
I chased intermittent idle and misfiring problems for over a year, changing the IAC, in-tank hoses and pressure regulator, and finally the TPS. The first two didn't help, or at least the second didn't and the first only for a short time, but after changing the TPS my bike has been running perfectly now for six weeks. That said, the IAC can be the source of idle problems, and if misfiring is part of the problem an in-tank leak causing a fuel-pressure reduction can also contribute.
Are you getting any random misfiring at cruising speeds? Is the bike throwing any codes? If no codes it doesn't mean much, as mine started throwing a TPS code only in the very last week after the bike became almost unrideable because of idle weirdness and misfiring.
The IAC costs about $40 and I would try this first. The manual says to remove the induction module, but you really don't want to do this unless you enjoy hassles, because this is a big one. You can remove the IAC if you have a Torx bit and ratchet that will negotiate the inside bolt. It must not only get in position but stay in place until the bolt is out, as it is Loctited and you'll probably need the ratchet for the full movement. IOW, you can't break it and then unscrew it with your fingers, or at least I couldn't. Mine was just the right size, but it is a very tight fit. You may be able to do it by taking a T-handle Torx wrench and bending it to fit, but I didn't have any of those at the time. I had to resort to that technique to remove the TPS. Nothing's ever easy. Watch the position of the IAC mounting plate as you remove it, as the manual has it shown in the wrong position and will add confusion when you install the new IAC motor. It only goes on one way, so that's a good thing.
You'll also need to raise the tank by removing the rear (1) and front (2) bolts, then blocking it up as high as it'll go. It would be wise to pull the fuel quick-release connector on the left side of the tank, as some have reported that fitting can break with more than light pressure.
The TPS was my problem, and it isn't easy to remove either. It's a $31 part and again the inside Torx bolt is the only hurdle to removing and re-installing. I had to buy a T-handle Torx set from Harbor Freight, then bend the tool on the end to fit. If you must replace either module I would buy some Allen bolts of the correct size to replace the Torx, as they would be much easier to remove with common tools like a long ball-end Allen bit. You don't need to raise the tank to remove the TPS.
Let us know how you fare and call again if you need more help.
Are you getting any random misfiring at cruising speeds? Is the bike throwing any codes? If no codes it doesn't mean much, as mine started throwing a TPS code only in the very last week after the bike became almost unrideable because of idle weirdness and misfiring.
The IAC costs about $40 and I would try this first. The manual says to remove the induction module, but you really don't want to do this unless you enjoy hassles, because this is a big one. You can remove the IAC if you have a Torx bit and ratchet that will negotiate the inside bolt. It must not only get in position but stay in place until the bolt is out, as it is Loctited and you'll probably need the ratchet for the full movement. IOW, you can't break it and then unscrew it with your fingers, or at least I couldn't. Mine was just the right size, but it is a very tight fit. You may be able to do it by taking a T-handle Torx wrench and bending it to fit, but I didn't have any of those at the time. I had to resort to that technique to remove the TPS. Nothing's ever easy. Watch the position of the IAC mounting plate as you remove it, as the manual has it shown in the wrong position and will add confusion when you install the new IAC motor. It only goes on one way, so that's a good thing.
You'll also need to raise the tank by removing the rear (1) and front (2) bolts, then blocking it up as high as it'll go. It would be wise to pull the fuel quick-release connector on the left side of the tank, as some have reported that fitting can break with more than light pressure.
The TPS was my problem, and it isn't easy to remove either. It's a $31 part and again the inside Torx bolt is the only hurdle to removing and re-installing. I had to buy a T-handle Torx set from Harbor Freight, then bend the tool on the end to fit. If you must replace either module I would buy some Allen bolts of the correct size to replace the Torx, as they would be much easier to remove with common tools like a long ball-end Allen bit. You don't need to raise the tank to remove the TPS.
Let us know how you fare and call again if you need more help.
Last edited by iclick; 07-31-2011 at 03:34 PM.
#6
07-31-2011, 03:14 PM
I chased intermittent idle and misfiring problems for over a year, changing the IAC, in-tank hoses and pressure regulator, and finally the TPS. The first two didn't help, or at least the second didn't and the first only for a short time, but after changing the TPS my bike has been running perfectly now for six weeks. That said, the IAC can be the source of idle problems, and if misfiring is part of the problem an in-tank leak causing a fuel-pressure reduction can also contribute.
Are you getting any random misfiring at cruising speeds? Is the bike throwing any codes? If no codes it doesn't mean much, as mine started throwing a TPS code only in the very last week after the bike became almost unrideable because of idle weirdness and misfiring.
The IAC costs about $40 and I would try this first. The manual says to remove the induction module, but you really don't want to do this unless you enjoy hassles, because this is a big one. You can remove the IAC if you have a Torx bit and ratchet that will negotiate the inside bolt. It must not only get in position but stay in place until the bolt is out, as it is Loctited and you'll probably need the ratchet for the full movement. IOW, you can't break it and then unscrew it with your fingers, or at least I couldn't. Mine was just the right size, but it is a very tight fit. You may be able to do it by taking a T-handle Torx wrench and bending it to fit, but I didn't have any of those at the time. I had to resort to that technique to remove the TPS. Nothing's ever easy. Watch the position of the IAC mounting plate as you remove it, as the manual has it's shown in the wrong position and will add confusion when you install the new IAC motor. It only goes on one way, so that's a good thing.
You'll also need to raise the tank by removing the rear (1) and front (2) bolts, then blocking it up as high as it'll go. It would be wise to pull the fuel quick-release connector on the left side of the tank, as some have reported that fitting can break with more than light pressure.
The TPS was my problem, and it isn't easy to remove either. It's a $31 part and again the inside Torx bolt is the only hurdle to removing and re-installing. I had to buy a T-handle Torx set from Harbor Freight, then bend the tool on the end to fit. If you must replace either module I would buy some Allen bolts of the correct size to replace the Torx, as they would be much easier to remove with common tools like a long ball-end Allen bit. You don't need to raise the tank to remove the TPS.
Let us know how you fare and call again if you need more help.
Are you getting any random misfiring at cruising speeds? Is the bike throwing any codes? If no codes it doesn't mean much, as mine started throwing a TPS code only in the very last week after the bike became almost unrideable because of idle weirdness and misfiring.
The IAC costs about $40 and I would try this first. The manual says to remove the induction module, but you really don't want to do this unless you enjoy hassles, because this is a big one. You can remove the IAC if you have a Torx bit and ratchet that will negotiate the inside bolt. It must not only get in position but stay in place until the bolt is out, as it is Loctited and you'll probably need the ratchet for the full movement. IOW, you can't break it and then unscrew it with your fingers, or at least I couldn't. Mine was just the right size, but it is a very tight fit. You may be able to do it by taking a T-handle Torx wrench and bending it to fit, but I didn't have any of those at the time. I had to resort to that technique to remove the TPS. Nothing's ever easy. Watch the position of the IAC mounting plate as you remove it, as the manual has it's shown in the wrong position and will add confusion when you install the new IAC motor. It only goes on one way, so that's a good thing.
You'll also need to raise the tank by removing the rear (1) and front (2) bolts, then blocking it up as high as it'll go. It would be wise to pull the fuel quick-release connector on the left side of the tank, as some have reported that fitting can break with more than light pressure.
The TPS was my problem, and it isn't easy to remove either. It's a $31 part and again the inside Torx bolt is the only hurdle to removing and re-installing. I had to buy a T-handle Torx set from Harbor Freight, then bend the tool on the end to fit. If you must replace either module I would buy some Allen bolts of the correct size to replace the Torx, as they would be much easier to remove with common tools like a long ball-end Allen bit. You don't need to raise the tank to remove the TPS.
Let us know how you fare and call again if you need more help.
#7
07-31-2011, 07:16 PM
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#8
07-31-2011, 07:18 PM
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I wonder if my TPS is going bad, my bike idles fine all the time, hot or cold, but lately it's been misfiring and stumbling on take off from a stop, then all of a sudden it'll run right and take off. Sometimes it sputters/misses real bad, sure seems like a defective TPS??
#9
07-31-2011, 07:52 PM
I wonder if my TPS is going bad, my bike idles fine all the time, hot or cold, but lately it's been misfiring and stumbling on take off from a stop, then all of a sudden it'll run right and take off. Sometimes it sputters/misses real bad, sure seems like a defective TPS??
1. Internal fuel leak in tank (hose or pressure regulator)
2. TPS
3. Fuel filter
4. Plug wires
5. Spark plugs
6. Coil
In order, I replaced #5, 4, 1, and 3 before linking the problem to #2.
#10
07-31-2011, 08:33 PM
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Is it throwing any codes? Mine started with intermittent but rare misfires, always at highway speeds under very light loads and never at WOT. It would do it, then work fine for weeks or even months at a time, but finally towards the end it started throwing P0122 codes (TPS open/low) and was running very poor. Misfiring can be caused by a number of things, and I hope you can find your problem quicker than I did, but it may require some trial and error. Here are some ideas:
1. Internal fuel leak in tank (hose or pressure regulator)
2. TPS
3. Fuel filter
4. Plug wires
5. Spark plugs
6. Coil
In order, I replaced #5, 4, 1, and 3 before linking the problem to #2.
1. Internal fuel leak in tank (hose or pressure regulator)
2. TPS
3. Fuel filter
4. Plug wires
5. Spark plugs
6. Coil
In order, I replaced #5, 4, 1, and 3 before linking the problem to #2.
I also bought a new fuel filter kit, so the hose and filter will be replaced this week. I'll do a ohms check on the wires, but I can replace them, I have some news ones here I was gonna put on.
Mine like yours runs great at larger throttle openings, it just happens at take off from a stop with small throttle input. I had a similar problem on a couple other non-HD FI bikes and it was the TPS, but different brands can have a similar problem but with a different cause.
This is my first fuel injected HD out of the 11 I've owned, so I figured I'd ask about this. Carb'd HDs run so darn good and never gave me any troubles. Oh well.......
Thanks for the good help and ideas, so this week I'll replace the fuel filter and hose and try it out. I want to do one thing at a time and see what happens so I know exactly what the problem was.
I just remembered, it's easy to check the TPS, you unplug them, hook up a meter and check the signal throughout the range by twisting the throttle slowly. If the meter is reading smooth thru the rotation it's a pretty good bet all is okay, if it goes dead or has erratic readings/spikes anywhere it means it's worn out.
Well I have some work to do I guess. Let the fun begin..
