Rear caliper removal
#1
#2
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Take the two bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket off, it can be done by just removing the rear bolt and swinging the caliper up but it's easier if you take the caliper completly off. Also take the top of your fluid resivoir off and put rags around it to catch any fluid that will overflow when you push the piston back. Just a note, for around $50 you can get a Harley mataintance manual. worth the price.
#3
You loosen the rear brake master cylinder cover and insert a putty knife between the brakepad and rotor and ease the pad back and the pistons behind it will compress into the caliper. You do this to both pads. Then loosen and remove the pad pins.You will need a 1/4" 12 point socket to remove the pad pins. Pull out the pads and replace with new pads paying attention to the shape of the inner and outer pads making sure that you replace the old pads with the new one that are the same shape. Reinstall the pins and seat the pads by depressing the brake pedal. Check your fluid level and reinstall master cylinder cover. Where is Blackstone MA?
PS: Do yourself a favor and take a file and chamfer the leading edge of the new brake pads, usually 3 sides, the left, right and bottom. This will help in eliminating the possibility of your new pads squealing.
Last edited by soos; 03-16-2012 at 06:38 PM.
#4
-remove the caliper, do not let it hang by or stress the hose, if you need to leave it, use a piece of wire to hang it, or other wise leave it supported.
a satisfying brake job requires that you remove the pad, then give the area a good cleaning before the new pads are positioned, do not use metal tools to push the pad or on the brake rotor ( disk).
pushing the pistons back into the bore will displace fluid back toward the reservoir- or, I crack the bleeder valve and push the pistons in, closing the bleeder while under positive pressure to prevent air from entering the system.
This expels the dirtiest fluid
the pins need to be clean and lubed ( I think the H-D kit comes with new pins)
and an anti-squeak applied to the back of the pads.
brakes squeak when the pads vibrate in place, the RTV -like anti squeak will absorb or resist vibration
If you have not done a brake job on your car, you may want to get help
mike
a satisfying brake job requires that you remove the pad, then give the area a good cleaning before the new pads are positioned, do not use metal tools to push the pad or on the brake rotor ( disk).
pushing the pistons back into the bore will displace fluid back toward the reservoir- or, I crack the bleeder valve and push the pistons in, closing the bleeder while under positive pressure to prevent air from entering the system.
This expels the dirtiest fluid
the pins need to be clean and lubed ( I think the H-D kit comes with new pins)
and an anti-squeak applied to the back of the pads.
brakes squeak when the pads vibrate in place, the RTV -like anti squeak will absorb or resist vibration
If you have not done a brake job on your car, you may want to get help
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; 03-16-2012 at 05:00 PM.
#5
-remove the caliper, do not let it hang by or stress the hose, if you need to leave it, use a piece of wire to hang it, or other wise leave it supported.
a satisfying brake job requires that you remove the pad, then give the area a good cleaning before the new pads are positioned, do not use metal tools to push the pad or on the brake rotor ( disk).
pushing the pistons back into the bore will displace fluid back toward the reservoir- or, I crack the bleeder valve and push the pistons in, closing the bleeder while under positive pressure to prevent air from entering the system.
This expels the dirtiest fluid
the pins need to be clean and lubed ( I think the H-D kit comes with new pins)
and an anti-squeak applied to the back of the pads.
brakes squeak when the pads vibrate in place, the RTV -like anti squeak will absorb or resist vibration
If you have not done a brake job on your car, you may want to get help
mike
a satisfying brake job requires that you remove the pad, then give the area a good cleaning before the new pads are positioned, do not use metal tools to push the pad or on the brake rotor ( disk).
pushing the pistons back into the bore will displace fluid back toward the reservoir- or, I crack the bleeder valve and push the pistons in, closing the bleeder while under positive pressure to prevent air from entering the system.
This expels the dirtiest fluid
the pins need to be clean and lubed ( I think the H-D kit comes with new pins)
and an anti-squeak applied to the back of the pads.
brakes squeak when the pads vibrate in place, the RTV -like anti squeak will absorb or resist vibration
If you have not done a brake job on your car, you may want to get help
mike
That's the thing though I HAVE done many brake jobs on cars . It just looked a little different to me so I wanted to ask to avoid unnecessary agrivation
#6
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