Found this which may help. Not a Shotgun but an air ride.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...uspension.html

 

I love the system.
I run it this way, I blow the shock up high and very firm, I then blow up the other side to lower it down about 1/2 an inch. If I feel like slamming it a little, I just continue to blow up the back side and lower it. On the highway, I raise it up all the way, but not as firm, and I dump everything on the backside out, except for a very little pressure to keep it from topping out and the bump that comes with that.. This gives an incredible ride, but not recommended in the twisties. For that, I stiffen up both sides pretty well, and the handling is as sure footed as it gets. No other air ride system can do this, and it seperates it from everything else.

 

Anyone here remember "Draggin Baggers" a few of us got screwed on those. However the shotgun shocks sound like they would be great.

IronHorse

 

Any updates on this ? Ive been looking at the SAS but I think Im leaning more towards the Shot gun after reading this. Great thread Chrome, and nice pics ..

 

I haven't riden a bike with any other system so I can't make a ride comparison but I am really pleased with the system. Seems to have addressed the glitches inherint in some of the others. Get's my vote and would recommend it without hesitation

 

From the pics, the compressor is not built in like the SAS ? I see the switches toggle type, are they 2 position switches as to where a push button would not work? I was thinking of using something more along the lines like what Raaaa used on his setup.

 

Well i just purchased a shotgun air ride for a $1000.00 new. I am also going to setup my switches differently. Hopefully i can get them located somewhere down low by my seat like "raaaaa's" set-up. We'll see. I'm not impressed by the look of switches drilled into my console.

 

Switches are momentary type. They work like this. Middle is off. Both switches up will raise the suspension as fast as possible as one switch in this sequence causes the compressor to fill the air cavity to raise the bike and the the other switch will open the cavity to push it down. After full height is reached put the switches back to the middle off position. To lower from here to a ride height move the switch furthest from you (if mounted like mine) down. You can stop and start at any position. Go to far down? just toggle this one up again to raise. Once you have your ride height, you could check for firmness by pushing up and down on the fender. (It will default to the softest rebound) Now you can change the firmness without changing ride height by putting switch closest to you in the up postion. The longer it is up the firmer it gets. Lastly, for effect I guess, you can dump all the air by putting both swithces down instead of lowering by the one switch method mentioned. The compressor is not built in like the SAS. It is stands alone and tucks under the shotgun. It's a very stock looking and stealth set up when installed. Almost a shame as the shock itself looks so good.

I don't know about other type of switches. Might want to check with JD on that and if it voids the warranty. The location on the dash is practical since this is a system that can work while the bike is in motion. Others can too I imagine but I would think you'll more than likely use this system more often in motion because you can adjust the rebound as you ride. I have a toggle switch mounted on the left side near my seat for LED's. Nice for on off but don't think I'd want to have these switches there. Just my opinion.

 

chromedome, sweet looking ride, i was curious if you have any more pics of the compressor, i too have done quite a bit of research and am looking to purchase this system when i get home in december. i have a different swingarm though for a RC Components Phantom 240 kit and its not a stock style. mostly i was hoping you had pics looking towards the front of the frame. does the compressor stick out past the transmission and if it does how faw.

 

I actually like them there only I would use the stock caps like the odometer switch....

I saw these recently and got to tell you these are a steel at $1000
especially because they are the all in one unit like the SAS system I have, plus %650 cheaper, nice.......

my switches are working great so far so if you do decide to go that route it's not a bad one