New test results amp: Soundstream PN4.1000D available
#1
New test results amp: Soundstream PN4.1000D available
See sticky...
just wanted to point this out... some of you were curious.
This amp is now my #1 recommendation for low price/high power amp (replacing RZ4.2000 and/or SS 4.520 for sure) as it DOES fit in the fairing.
Actually the Power results are exceeding the TN4.900 / PPI 4.900 as well in a smaller footprint.
My thanks to my brother Gannicus for providing the amp.
Fairing will be closed, until winter (uhum - winter in Vegas) kicks in, no more tests.
just wanted to point this out... some of you were curious.
This amp is now my #1 recommendation for low price/high power amp (replacing RZ4.2000 and/or SS 4.520 for sure) as it DOES fit in the fairing.
Actually the Power results are exceeding the TN4.900 / PPI 4.900 as well in a smaller footprint.
My thanks to my brother Gannicus for providing the amp.
Fairing will be closed, until winter (uhum - winter in Vegas) kicks in, no more tests.
#2
There is a new "go-to" amp around these parts brother. The RZ4.3000D is awesome!
My quick thoughts to piggy back off your testing. I put the RZ4.3000D yesterday on a friends bike with a set of BT 7.1’s in the fairing, and HAT 6.5 Mirus in the lowers. And this thing was LOUD. 100% all 140w is legit on this amp. I found using just a tad of the HPF on the amp cleaned up some of the max volume distortion, similar to the 45hz cut off on the 4180. Is this amp a 4180, Arc 600.4, etc. not in clear crisps sound quality, but in volume absolutely! If you have an RZ4.2000D, imagine the same sound quality....but add 40-50watts of volume. Tough to beat for the price.
Installs, +1 on what you posted. You need some sort of bracket to raise it about an inch or so to get to squeeze between the fairing brackets, and without the gauges trimmed --- it fits, but be expected to push the fairing in shut. It’s a VERY tight squeeze, but worth the extra effort.
I got it for me to try out....but now it’s staying on my friends bike!! He liked it that much. Here are some tight squeeze pics.
My quick thoughts to piggy back off your testing. I put the RZ4.3000D yesterday on a friends bike with a set of BT 7.1’s in the fairing, and HAT 6.5 Mirus in the lowers. And this thing was LOUD. 100% all 140w is legit on this amp. I found using just a tad of the HPF on the amp cleaned up some of the max volume distortion, similar to the 45hz cut off on the 4180. Is this amp a 4180, Arc 600.4, etc. not in clear crisps sound quality, but in volume absolutely! If you have an RZ4.2000D, imagine the same sound quality....but add 40-50watts of volume. Tough to beat for the price.
Installs, +1 on what you posted. You need some sort of bracket to raise it about an inch or so to get to squeeze between the fairing brackets, and without the gauges trimmed --- it fits, but be expected to push the fairing in shut. It’s a VERY tight squeeze, but worth the extra effort.
I got it for me to try out....but now it’s staying on my friends bike!! He liked it that much. Here are some tight squeeze pics.
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#8
b. not sure how much Watts you want to push to your BT71's but pushing 400-500W per speaker... expect some speaker parts flying around your ears so better wear your full face helmed
I would not push more than 200W RMS to the BTs and then also cut off some low Freq. (~50 Hz; lower than that speaker will not really produce anyway). it will safe your speakers from "blowing up".
you can just run fromnt or rear channel, not use the ohter one. not going to kill anything and you would be "ready" for the future if you wanted to add speakers.
#9
a. do not bridge ("ever"), you will lose dynamics. Bridging is only for Subs.
b. not sure how much Watts you want to push to your BT71's but pushing 400-500W per speaker... expect some speaker parts flying around your ears so better wear your full face helmed
I would not push more than 200W RMS to the BTs and then also cut off some low Freq. (~50 Hz; lower than that speaker will not really produce anyway). it will safe your speakers from "blowing up".
you can just run fromnt or rear channel, not use the ohter one. not going to kill anything and you would be "ready" for the future if you wanted to add speakers.
b. not sure how much Watts you want to push to your BT71's but pushing 400-500W per speaker... expect some speaker parts flying around your ears so better wear your full face helmed
I would not push more than 200W RMS to the BTs and then also cut off some low Freq. (~50 Hz; lower than that speaker will not really produce anyway). it will safe your speakers from "blowing up".
you can just run fromnt or rear channel, not use the ohter one. not going to kill anything and you would be "ready" for the future if you wanted to add speakers.
Ahhh no luck then. I just know these speakers are capable of more than what the pbr300x2 is giving them. I guess I'm still saving for the BT2180 then. Thanks AAWAV
#10