Dam it man! LMAO!!!

 

love that!!! Nicely done.

 

Some of wire ga and fuse sizes some of you guys are talking about sound like extreme overkill. Wire distances are much shorter than car application so low loss. We aren't running amps attached to huge subs that draw large amounts of power. The touring charging system alternator is like 45-50amps tops. Now if you're dimming your lighting running your amp hard that's another story

 

And that simple motorcycle can burn up mighty fast if:
- you have infused loads connected to the battery and something shorts
- you fuse a wire with a fuse rated in excess of the current capacity of the wire gauge.

And oh yeah...regarding a simple motorcycle. Look into a pre-Rushmore fairing. It ain't that simple. ...

 

Your point is relative regarding wire gauge...but not as far as properly sizing fuse to wire gauge.

 

You're absolutely correct Geezer. Thanks for sharing brother!

 

I used to run two amps. I ran #4 power and ground from the battery to the fairing, and added a 100a fuse as close as possible to the battery. Under the fairing I added two distribution blocks, 12v on one side and ground on the other. Coming off the power block I added a separate inline fuse to each amp rated at 30a, and used #8 to each amp. I have since deleted the second amp (PBR like yours) since the RZ4 3000D easily overpowers it and I couldn't hear the lids, so I tied them into the big amp. You should size your fuses based on wire size, not amp load, but there's no need to run anything larger than #8 to each amp and #10 would be fine since it's rated at 30 amps (the same size fuse in your PBR). Btw, the 4180 won't kill FM and is a better solution than two amps IMO.

 

I do agree that wire size is very important but I've always determined fuse size by current draw fella's. I guess I'm old school. Been doing it for years with no issues. I guess I always took for granted if I had a really powerful amp I'd go with 4 ga.or 0 ga. less powerful amps I used 8-10 ga. Those are the only gauges I've ever used. . lol.

IMHO -The fuse needs to handle the power that will flow through the cable under maximum operating conditions (full power) and no more (ideally). To determine the maximum amount of current that will be needed you will need to know the current draw of each part of the system that draws power from the main wire. For example, if you have two amplifiers that draw 30 amps and 50 amps respectively you'd want to use an 80 amp fuse.

That's been my rule of thumb fella's but you guys are probably right! I just never paid that much attention to it.

 

nineball...What is that setup for... (or in)!

 

that was part of a build i helped my neighbor do in a dodge neon kinda funny - while it was a nice neon (2005 in 2009) he had more in audio equipment than the car was worth (about $4000 car value). interior had all alpine type-x components (1 pair in the front ran active, one pair in the rear passive, a single tweet and mid for a center channel), a custom built 8" sub, two jbl ms-a1004 amps, a jbl ms-a5001 and a jbl ms-8.

he had always paid someone to do installs for him and wanted to learn for himself, so i supervised his little install. i showed him how to lay glass and make some basic enclosures and an amp rack, he did all the work and did a pretty good job for his first time with only instructions. i did most of the wiring and tuning. here are a few shots.









tweet pods to install over the sail panels in the door