On my bike, I added the 2011 CVO Street Glide speaker boxes with 6.5” speakers and wired them as “rear” speakers using the rear speaker pin outs on the Harman Kardon head unit. Whether you run those speaker wires directly to the speakers or to an add-on amp, the HK rear speaker pin outs are easily accessible in the unused 35 wire receptacle on the back of the radio. That receptacle is “unused” on all fairing model Touring bikes as delivered by HD except the Ultras (EG, RG, and CVO Ultras) and 2011 CVO SG’s. With the introduction of the CVO SG speaker boxes, new four-channel amps, and the traditional tour pak speaker pods many add, accessing the rear speaker pin outs is a useful and pretty simple project.

For accessing the rear speaker pin outs, you only use four of the pin outs:

pin #1, right rear +;
pin #2, left rear +;
pin #24, right rear -; and,
pin #25, left rear -.

To make the connection to the pin outs, use the same part HD uses in the Ultra and in the expensive non-Ultra overlay harness (NUOH), $129 list. It’s HD part no. 72384-06BK; it’s a Tyco AMP 35 wire AMPSEAL connector. The wire ends use a “socket” (HD terminology; Tyco calls them “contacts”), HD part no. 72381-98, for inserting the wires into the connector. You can buy these parts separately, but a better alternative to save a few bucks is to buy the HD wiring harness used for the IPod and Navigation Interface Modules, p/n 69200033. Bought separately, the parts will cost about $30; buy the harness and you’ll spend $20 and it will come with the connector and three of the sockets. Buy a fourth socket, 72381-98 and you’ll have the parts you need (though I buy a couple of extra sockets for projects like this in case I make a mistake; they’re cheap and provide good job interruption insurance).

[Note 1: The NUOH is typically used for add-on audio accessories and is worth its high cost if you’re adding CB or intercom. But if you’re only adding a pair of speakers, spending $129 for the NUOH to add four wires is a waste of money IMO when a much less expensive alternative is available. A good example of excess expense is the XM module installation. HD says to buy the NUOH even though for the XM installation you will only be using one of the many connectors on the NUOH. Instead, you could fab the 35 wire connector described here to access the XM pin outs on the HK, add the mating connector for the XM module connection, and you’d spend less than $50, and have a lot less wiring to route inside the fairing. The same is true for adding rear speakers to a tour pak. Instead of buying the NUOH and the separate audio harness, p/n 77157-06, for $97 to connect from the NUOH to the rear speakers, you could fab your own 35 wire connector and run wires to mating connectors at the rear speakers for about $50 instead of spending $200 on wiring harnesses.]

The parts list for the 6900033 harness is in this link with pictures of the parts:

http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Media/downloads/Service/isheets/-J05181.pdf

[Note 2: If you already have the 69200033 harness or the NUOH on your bike, you won’t need to buy the connector, but you will need four of the sockets, p/n 72381-98, for the four new speaker wires; ditto for 2011 CVO SG’s.]

If you have the HD service manual for your bike, the appendix explains how to insert and remove wires from the 35 wire connector. If you don’t, Tyco provides the information:

http://www.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/bin/TE.Connect?C=10873&M=PPROP&P=&BML=&LG=1&PG=1&IDS=3 0348,63242,63243,63244,39495,30357,30333,30341,303 43,30555,30350,30351,30352,30545,30548,63137,63138 ,63241,63267,63261&N=19

Just click on the “Instruction Sheets” pdf link for detailed information.

Okay, so the pin outs on the HK radio have been identified; the parts needed to access them have been identified; and, the information on how to assemble the connector is in hand. For information on how to attach the sockets to the wires, UltraKla$$ic’s thread provides excellent information and pictures on the two crimps per socket that are required (and don’t worry about the fact that he’s using Deutsch brand connectors; they are attached in the same way as the AMP ones being used for this project):

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/477270-how-to-make-your-tourpak-on-your-ultraclassic-quick-detachable.html

Another excellent explanation on how to crimp sockets to the wires is in this link:

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html

The tool used in crimping the sockets is known as an open barrel crimper. They can cost from $10 to $300. The ones I’ve used are the Philmore WS26 ($9.99, purchased at Fry’s Electronics) and the Sargent 1028 ($25 available from Amazon and others). The Philmore tool will get the job done, but the crimps may need a bit of dressing (at least they did when I used the tool), while the Sargent tool, being articulated, seems to do a better initial crimp on both the conductor and insulator and the crimps need zero or minimal adjustment. Here’s a picture of the two crimpers—the Philmore on the left, and the Sargent on the right:



Of course, if you’re a “tool guy” there are more expensive alternatives that will do both crimps in a single squeeze. Another alternative is to simply take your wires and sockets and have a tech at the HD store or your local indy do the crimping for you. And I've read of guys soldering the wires to the sockets and using needle nose pliers; but, I've used the Philmore and Sargent tools to do many crimps that work. Choose the solution that works for you.

If you already have the NUOH on your bike as I did, you can simply remove the four wires for the rear speakers identified above from the 35 wire connector, and, using the technique described in the Tyco link above, use new sockets and wires, and reassemble the wires in the 35 wire connector. The four removed wires are simply taped off since they carry no audio signal.

Here’s a picture of the NUOH on my bike with the wires removed and new wires inserted (the yellow, pin out #1; and, green, pin out #2 wires in the upper left) for the rear speakers (the grounds in pin outs 24 and 25 are not visible):



Note: The NUOH has connectors for the left and right passenger controls located on the Ultra tour pak speaker pods that include the wiring for the rear speakers, and you could buy mating connectors to access the rear speaker signals in that way rather than directly at the 35 wire connector as described here. Rather than buy parts for two connectors to connect to the NUOH, I chose to simply access the rear speaker pin outs at the 35 wire connector.

The rear speaker pin outs are “live” so you will get a “normal” signal from them to the speakers; normal being the same signal the rear speakers on an Ultra receives. If you want fader control, you’ll need to take the bike to the dealer for the Digital Technician to be hooked up to your bike to turn “on” the HK radio’s fader function. If you don’t already see “fader” on your audio menu (e.g. bass, treble, etc.) you’ll need to have the dealer do this for you or send your head unit to Iron Cross Audio and they’ll do it for you:

http://www.ironcrossaudio.com/contact.html

If you are going to use the CVO speaker boxes, the part nos. for them, additional electrical connectors, etc. are in this thread:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/570604-2011-cvo-street-glide-speaker-boxes-installed-w-pics.html

Of course, you don’t have to use the rear speaker pin outs to run four speakers. For example, Hogtunes’ popular tour pak speaker kit w/amp doesn’t use the rear speaker pin outs, and guys use a single two channel amp with four speakers. But if you want to use the HK’s rear speaker signals, it’s pretty straightforward with readily available parts; crimping the sockets and assembling the connector are not difficult; and, the dealer charge for turning on the fader function shouldn’t be more than a ½ hour charge if any at all. So for about $50, you can use the rear speaker outputs of the HK and have fader control for that additional pair of speakers.

As I mentioned earlier, I’m not a tech or audio guy, but I’ve done a fair amount of audio mods to my bike and learned a few things along the way. If you have more/better information, please chime in. I’m no guru and this isn’t the holy grail of adding a pair of speakers using the HK rear speaker pin outs; just a way that worked for me.

Carl

PS: None of the information here is “new.” It’s either been posted before or readily available from HD and manufacturer’s literature. Consider this post more of a compilation of that information. If you don’t already have the HD Service Manual for your bike, you should IMO—it will be your best friend for projects like this and many, many others.

 

Excellent write-up and another good tech article...as always, Carl!

Thanks!

Steve

 

Thanks, Steve.

I edited the original post in a couple of minor respects.

It will be interesting to see what J&M provides in the way of wiring harnesses for their soon to arrive 500W four-channel amp, as well as what Paul Yaffe will provide for the kit he's going to provide with the Rockford Fosgate 300W four-channel amp that should be available very soon.

My main purpose in this thread is to explain the relatively inexpensive parts, tools, etc. needed to use the rear speaker signals from the HK head unit for those who want to add an additional pair of speakers (either in fairing lower speakers or tour pak speakers).

Carl

 

great info!

 

Hey Carl, good write-up. At the top, you show pin assignments but you have two left-rear negatives:

pin #1, right rear +;
pin #2, left rear -;
pin #24, right rear -; and,
pin #25, left rear -.

I assume pin #2 should be "+", right?

 

Correct; and thanks for a good "catch." I'll edit and correct.

Carl

 

For those adding a tour pak with HD speaker pods, the connectors at the pods have six wires in each. The rear speaker wires are:

1. Rt rear + = green;
2. Rt rear - = light green/brown;
3. Lt rear + = brown; and,
4. Lt rear - = white/brown.

To make your own mating connectors for the HD tour pak speaker pod connectors, use these part nos.:

1. 74106-98BK Pin Housing (need two), Black 6-way, $8.50; (Drag # 2120-0046 Black 6-pin Receptacle, incl. lock);
2. 74146-98 Pin Lock, 6-way, $.55 (need two, but the Drag kit comes with the lock); and,
3. 74190-98 Pin Terminal, $.50 ea. (need four); Drag 2120-0035 pk of 10 Male pins.

Carl

 

Great job on your post! I am looking into adding rear speakers on my 09 RG which has the c/b mod and intercom now but no rear speakers yet. I also want to add the passenger intercom for those times that the wife rides with me instead of riding her RKC or one of the grandkids is with me.

 

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Hey Carl, Excellent write-up. You just don't no how much this has help answer a lot of question. I was totally confuse at one point. But after looking over all the information that, I found this put everything together. It even helps me out with the installation of the Ipod Interface. I'm going to order the parts this week. Thanks