you need 2 holes in each pod. 1 for the actual control and 1 for the wires to enter into the pod at the bottom. I would mount the passenger controls as low as possible in the side of the pod so as not to be in the way of the speaker magnet.
That was the plan. Those magnets on the BT are pretty big, so figured I would have to mount the controls low and as far back as possible. Took the ones out of the stock pods already, so have a good idea on how much space I will need.
always good to have pics and directions for others to follow here. look forward to it. -That's how I learned from everyone, including YOU! Thanks for what you have done to help everyone out on here.
nothing wrong with the stock head unit. If you're happy with it, use it. - I do actually like the stock for the most part, but would like it to have Bluetooth. May send out to Iron Cross in the near future to have the RCA's and Bluetooth added. Maybe next winter's mod after I am done paying for the most recent improvements.
OK-Went to begin the mods to the BT rear pods and can't get the darn grills off of them to take out the speakers and work on installing the rear controls. Looks like these things are jb welded in there. I didn't pry too hard as I didn't want to break anything, but they are on there very firmly. Anyone have recommendations on how to remove the grills without destroying them or damage the fabric on the pods themselves?
On a side note, these are very nice pods, much nicer than the stockers. Starting to re-thing cutting into them to install the controls, but really don't want to drop another grand on a new HU and Bluetooth intercoms to substitute at this point.
OK-Went to begin the mods to the BT rear pods and can't get the darn grills off of them to take out the speakers and work on installing the rear controls. Looks like these things are jb welded in there. I didn't pry too hard as I didn't want to break anything, but they are on there very firmly. Anyone have recommendations on how to remove the grills without destroying them or damage the fabric on the pods themselves?
On a side note, these are very nice pods, much nicer than the stockers. Starting to re-thing cutting into them to install the controls, but really don't want to drop another grand on a new HU and Bluetooth intercoms to substitute at this point.
Go ahead and jump in Mike. . . What's another grand? The wife can only kill you once. . . .LOL Those pods are too nice to cut up anyway.
OK-Went to begin the mods to the BT rear pods and can't get the darn grills off of them to take out the speakers and work on installing the rear controls. Looks like these things are jb welded in there. I didn't pry too hard as I didn't want to break anything, but they are on there very firmly. Anyone have recommendations on how to remove the grills without destroying them or damage the fabric on the pods themselves?
On a side note, these are very nice pods, much nicer than the stockers. Starting to re-thing cutting into them to install the controls, but really don't want to drop another grand on a new HU and Bluetooth intercoms to substitute at this point.
I just got mine installed last night and yea these things are nice. I ended up just tucking the old plugs and intercom outlet under the seat. Only thing I don't like is how tight the pods are on the seat but I guess that's the price you pay for having there enormous speakers. Have you buttoned up the fairing yet after installing the amp and speakers? Did it seem like either the amp or some of the wiring was interfering with bolting the outer fairing back on? I was able to get it back on but I did have to pull and push it around a little to get all the bolts back in
I just got mine installed last night and yea these things are nice. I ended up just tucking the old plugs and intercom outlet under the seat. Only thing I don't like is how tight the pods are on the seat but I guess that's the price you pay for having there enormous speakers. Have you buttoned up the fairing yet after installing the amp and speakers? Did it seem like either the amp or some of the wiring was interfering with bolting the outer fairing back on? I was able to get it back on but I did have to pull and push it around a little to get all the bolts back in
I did the same thing with my old plugs. Still have the bike stripped down, as I have been having to work late this week. Still toying with what I want to do about the pods and possibly a new HU before I button everything back up.
I did kind of test fit the outer fairing after I staged the amp and it seemed like it would go back on with no problems. I have the Scott Ezell bracket, which has a gap over the HU, so makes it even harder with that big azz wiring harness on top, and the fact that the BT amp is a little taller than the SS I had in there before. If I replace the HU, I will likely pull the bracket also as I won't need it anymore. Just struggling with giving up the intercom. I use my helmet in the winter commuting to work and usually listen to the morning AM station to get road and traffic updates, along with my morning news. Will lose that if I lose the intercom system. I could stream it on iHeart radio, but that chews up data on my phone, and not a big fan of streaming audio.
Too stubborn in that I still like some of that old technology and having a hard time giving it up.
I did the same thing with my old plugs. Still have the bike stripped down, as I have been having to work late this week. Still toying with what I want to do about the pods and possibly a new HU before I button everything back up.
I did kind of test fit the outer fairing after I staged the amp and it seemed like it would go back on with no problems. I have the Scott Ezell bracket, which has a gap over the HU, so makes it even harder with that big azz wiring harness on top, and the fact that the BT amp is a little taller than the SS I had in there before. If I replace the HU, I will likely pull the bracket also as I won't need it anymore. Just struggling with giving up the intercom. I use my helmet in the winter commuting to work and usually listen to the morning AM station to get road and traffic updates, along with my morning news. Will lose that if I lose the intercom system. I could stream it on iHeart radio, but that chews up data on my phone, and not a big fan of streaming audio.
Too stubborn in that I still like some of that old technology and having a hard time giving it up.
Did you test fit it with the RCAs plugged into the amp? I'm thinking that's what could be touching. They may be hitting the fairing or could be hitting the headlight bucket I'm not sure. I may try to pick up some 90* RCA jacks and see if that helps. I ended up putting it all back together so I may wait a couple hundred miles and pull it back off to see if anything is wearing on the fairing
I completed the install of the stock rear passenger controls in the BT rear speaker pods. I was a little nervous about doing it, but took a shot. I think it came out rather well.
I had to call Biketronics to find out how to remove the speaker grills from the pods, as I received them already assembled. Glad I did, because I was trying to pry the grill off under the plastic halo, which I found was attached UNDER the speaker. Would have certainly destroyed it had I not stopped what I was doing and called BT. The mesh on the grills has to come off by itself. They use an adhesive similar to windshield trim adhesive to hold the mesh to the halo. I used a jewelers screwdriver and inserted in in the edge of the mesh and gently pried up and worked my was around the grill to lift it off. Sorry, forgot to take pictures of doing this.
The pics are of the volume, PTT switch, but same procedure was used for the other side.
1. First thin I did was peel back the carpet liner from the inside of the pod, then took the mounting bracket from the stock control and marked a spot where I could ensure clearance of the speaker magnet. I then drilled a small hole from the inside of the pod-out, so that I could see where to line up the control switch housing from the outside of the pod.
2. Next, I lined up the outside piece of the control over the hole that I made when I drilled and marked the distance I would need to fit the switch housing through the pod.
3. Using a xacto knife, I cut a slit in the vinyl where the control switch assembly would need to go through the pod.
4. I used a drill to make a series of holes through the pod to make a cutout for the switch housing.
5. Because the stock pods are much thinner than the BT pods, I had to buy longer screws and some spacers to secure the switch housing to the bracket. I used #10 1 inch self-tapping screws, and used a dremel to cut off the tap ends of the screws. I used a couple of vinyl spacers between the switch housing and the metal bracket and fastened the switch housing to the bracket.
6. The connector for the wiring harness for the controls is way too big to fit through the small speaker hole on the pod, so I had to make a bigger hole. I used a 1" drill bit to cut out a hole in the same spot that the stock pods run the connector through. Before I drilled, I made small cuts in the vinyl in a + shape, and peeled back the vinyl a bit so that I could drill without tearing up the vinyl. This took a lot of work and I had to also cut out some of the foam lining in the pod.
7. I inserted the connector through the hole, and used the original trim ring from the stock pods to line the hole that I made.
8. I hooked everything up and put the control switch on the control panel.
9. For the left side pod, I also had to install the plug for the headsets. Again, the BT pods are much thicker than the stock pods, so this was a challenge. I didn't get good pics of this process, but here is how it ended up. You have to drill two holes to install the mount for the headset connector. I drilled them up underneath the pod, similar to how the stock pods are.
Both sides aren't perfectly the same, but overall, I was pleased with the final result.
09-17-2014, 08:45 AM
