80" Evo with open pipes, jet question.
#1
80" Evo with open pipes, jet question.
Got her running real good. As stated, ness big sucker and really short open pipes with torque cones, running the stock carb with a dynojet kit to work with it took a 170 main, 44 slow jet and I had to lower the clip or raise the needle by one slot. Runs awesome and absolutely not pops or sputter. Only one issue...... she's not as powerful as she used to be at faster speeds. I'm fine with that since this is just an around the town cruiser for me and my street glide is more for travel. Not to mention I'm getting way better gas mileage compared to when the dealer tuned it. Plugs look like new after about 150 miles. Everything else like timing and voes switch suggestions all checked out ok. Thanks for the help guys.
I'm terriible with carbs and had my dealer tune the bike for me 3 years ago when I finished everything else. It's the stock carb, I have the dynojet kit. My bike is a 1996 heritage with really short pipes, air cleaner and absolutely no other work. It ran fine when I got the bike back from tuning but I thought the idle was high. Anyway 3 years later it's running crappy. I suspect a leak at the manifold. Yesterday I replaced the manifold gaskets and while the carb was off I checked to see what jets they put in. Has 180/48 in it now. Directions with the jet kit call for a 170 jet but I assume with the short pipes a bigger jet was needed? Back to the story...... I left the carb as I found it (besides new gaskets for good measure) and it's all back together and buttoned up. I fired it up and now the thing feels more responsive at the throttle but it blows flames with a blip of the throttle. I haven't ridden it yet due to weather. It's definitely rich but why... was it tuned with a manifold leak and needed to be compensated.... are my jets too big now or should I just adjust the mix screw? If it helps I have joker machine pipes, they are short but have torque cones in them to increase back pressure. Any input would be helpfull.
I'm terriible with carbs and had my dealer tune the bike for me 3 years ago when I finished everything else. It's the stock carb, I have the dynojet kit. My bike is a 1996 heritage with really short pipes, air cleaner and absolutely no other work. It ran fine when I got the bike back from tuning but I thought the idle was high. Anyway 3 years later it's running crappy. I suspect a leak at the manifold. Yesterday I replaced the manifold gaskets and while the carb was off I checked to see what jets they put in. Has 180/48 in it now. Directions with the jet kit call for a 170 jet but I assume with the short pipes a bigger jet was needed? Back to the story...... I left the carb as I found it (besides new gaskets for good measure) and it's all back together and buttoned up. I fired it up and now the thing feels more responsive at the throttle but it blows flames with a blip of the throttle. I haven't ridden it yet due to weather. It's definitely rich but why... was it tuned with a manifold leak and needed to be compensated.... are my jets too big now or should I just adjust the mix screw? If it helps I have joker machine pipes, they are short but have torque cones in them to increase back pressure. Any input would be helpfull.
Last edited by Bradley Jones; 04-22-2015 at 05:14 PM.
#3
I'd have to look into this. I'm not really sure what you mean. Like I said I always send my carb issues to the dealer and this is my first time trying to figure it out. If it helps I've had a decent running bike for 3 years now until lately
#4
Fired it up today. Won't stay running on its own and when I can get it to run a little the plugs come out blacker than black and sooty not oily. Gonna order the 170 jet which was missing from the jet kit after I had it tuned and try that. Also going back to the stock slow jet and working my way up
#5
The collar (sorry I called it feral before and that's not right) is in upside down or perhaps missing. When you look into the carb throat its the bit on the bottom where the jet needle enters. it should be sticking up into the carb a little bit.
One good symptom of it either being missing or upside down is rich running at idle. If its missing then the plugs go black in about 30 seconds.
http://s58.photobucket.com/user/fran...ollar.jpg.html
One good symptom of it either being missing or upside down is rich running at idle. If its missing then the plugs go black in about 30 seconds.
http://s58.photobucket.com/user/fran...ollar.jpg.html
#6
Well I swapped the 48 idle jet for a 44 and now it fires right up and idles mint. Feels good with a few quick revs. Took it for a spin about 3 miles after it was warm and it starts to choke. Runs fine when I'm on the gas or when I'm holding the gas steady or getting on it but when I go to slow down it starts to sputter and pop. Any ideas? Also as soon as I pulled In the driveway I killed it so it didn't idle and I checked the plugs. Clean as a whistle. For the record it still has the 180 main with a 44 idle now. Not sure where my mix screw is cause I bought the ez screw and I admit I got a little into it and kept making adjustments. I may need to bring it all the way in and start over. Also this was all done with brand new plugs. I got two sets just to help tune the bike. Any input is greatly appreciated. I also noticed around 60 it sputtered a little but I didn't stay at 60 very long. I'm learning..... slowly but surely.
#7
The collar (sorry I called it feral before and that's not right) is in upside down or perhaps missing. When you look into the carb throat its the bit on the bottom where the jet needle enters. it should be sticking up into the carb a little bit.
One good symptom of it either being missing or upside down is rich running at idle. If its missing then the plugs go black in about 30 seconds.
http://s58.photobucket.com/user/fran...ollar.jpg.html
One good symptom of it either being missing or upside down is rich running at idle. If its missing then the plugs go black in about 30 seconds.
http://s58.photobucket.com/user/fran...ollar.jpg.html
Collar was good. I changed everything that could be replaced since it is almost 20 years old. All with factory replacements. But yes I check orientation of everything while it was apart.
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#9