Batwing Fairing Removal With Pictures

[Terry"TheTrollKiller"]

Most info here was taken from a post by Kess…..I simply added a few pics. TruBluUltra Paul Overview: There are 7 screws that need to be removed to complete this operation. Tools Needed: Torx 27 and the ratchet of your choice. At least a 6� extension is suggested. Torque Wrench Use a snap-on magnetic ratchet style screwdriver. You don't drop screws and it's a lot easier to reinstall without stripping out the insert. Optional: If possible, lift bike slightly so that front tire is suspended off the ground as you will be turning handlebars fully in both directions Prep: Cover Front Fender and Gas Tank to prevent damage Use old socks to cover spot lights Step 1: Locate three Torx Bolts on Top/Front section of fairing (Just under windshield) - Loosen but do not remove Step 2: While facing front turn handlebars all the way to the right. Use caution and make certain jiffy stand is fully engaged and in a locked position. Locate Inner Fairing bottom left screw and remove Step 3: locate Inner Fairing left center screw and loosen but do not remove Step 4: While facing front turn handlebars all the way to the left. Use caution and make certain jiffy stand is fully engaged and in a locked position. Locate Inner Fairing bottom right screw and remove Step 5: Locate right center screw and remove Step 6: Locate left center screw and remove Step 7: facing the front of the fairing remove top three screws – Suggest you remove center one last. Use caution and pull fairing slightly forward and remove windshield. Note: Use caution that windshield does not fall Note: Passing lamps will interfere with removal. Covering the lights with old socks will prevent scratching. Step 8: Reach behind headlight and remove connection with a side to side motion Option: At this point I chose to leave the fairing in place, speaker installation did not require removal and the fairing was very stable in this position Step 9: Use caution and remove fairing moving side to side for clearance – Note position of bottom rubber weather proofing To install fairing: Step 1: Re connected head light Step 2: Position fairing in place using caution that bottom weather proofing is in place and insert top center screw and lightly tighten it Step 3: Insert Inner Fairing left and right center screws and lightly tighten Step 4: Insert Inner Fairing bottom left and right screws Step 5: Install windshield and insert remaining 2 top screws Step 6: Once you are certain nothing is cross threaded tighten all screws…I used a hand driver to prevent overtorqueing and stripping the screws. Suggestion: Tighten two Inner Fairing center screws first, then the bottom two and then the top front (7 Total) What if – There have been many instances where the top three screws that hold the windshield on have been over tightened causing the brass insert to be stripped out. Use caution however if you strip the brass insert simply obtain Part# 16585-96 – The replacement part is threaded on the outside and is an easy repair

[08UltraRider]

Sorry, didn't mean to highjack this thread.

I'll post a new thread.

[CruzN]

There is one picture missing off the first thread.
Question: I have an 09 FLHT, I can't find the bolts reference in step three.
"locate Inner Fairing left center screw and loosen but do not remove "
I can only find the one in Step 2 picture with the white arrow.

Is that the one that holds the air deflectors ? Do you have to remove all of them

thank

[bcomes]

CruzN. I think you're looking for the screw inside the forks (from the riders's side). That's why you have to turn the steering all the way to the left and right. Otherwise you don't have a prayer of seeing these let along getting at them. There is one on each side. When you have a torx driver on it (mine are torx screws) the side of the driver will be touching the inside edge of the fork.

Yes, you have to remove the air deflectors too.

On a side note, I always put a fender cover on and put a small piece of plywood (6-8" wide by about a foot long) in between the forks and then just drop the passing lamps (the bracket and all) down onto that. It makes full removal of the faring much easier.

Brad

[FLHXterp]

Originally Posted by bcomes

CruzN. I think you're looking for the screw inside the forks (from the riders's side). That's why you have to turn the steering all the way to the left and right. Otherwise you don't have a prayer of seeing these let along getting at them. There is one on each side. When you have a torx driver on it (mine are torx screws) the side of the driver will be touching the inside edge of the fork.

Yes, you have to remove the air deflectors too.

On a side note, I always put a fender cover on and put a small piece of plywood (6-8" wide by about a foot long) in between the forks and then just drop the passing lamps (the bracket and all) down onto that. It makes full removal of the faring much easier.

Brad

Good answer but look at the date of the original question....

Me thinks he may have figured it out by now.

[bcomes]

Sorry...I've navigated vtwin forum for awhile but just recently returned to hd forum and must have gotten lost. I thought I was reading "new posts"....obviously not!

[dirkpit222]

Thx for the instructional..worked perfect! Tightened the mirrors so hopefully that solves my vibration issue!

[jay72]

Do you have to remove the aux head lamps and turn indicators to remove the front fairing? I just purchased the module that allows the aux lamps to remain on when the bright lights are on. It allows form manual control without regard to the position of the head l;amp switch, bright or dim. An where are the " inner fairing " screws. Also, am I to understand that the screws securing the wind deflectors on either side have to be removed as well? Might as well change the bulbs in the gauges while I'm at it, don't you think?

[UltraNutZ]

you do not have to remove the aux lamps and turns signals, however, take a cloth of some type and drape over the aux lamps so you don't scratch your fairing when removing it.

you do not have to remove the air-deflectors.

changing bulbs in the small guages is simply replacing the bulbs. the speedo and tach are ultra-tiny LEDS soldered onto the board. Not a job for the faint of heart and better left to the professionals.

there are 3 screws across the windshield on the outer-side of the fairing
there are 2 screws on the inside of the fairing (1 on each side) just above the wind-deflector
there are 2 screws inside the forks in front of the fuel tank. turn your handle bars to the left and right to see them.

[Scaredofrain]

Originally Posted by UltraNutZ

you do not have to remove the aux lamps and turns signals, however, take a cloth of some type and drape over the aux lamps so you don't scratch your fairing when removing it.

you do not have to remove the air-deflectors.

changing bulbs in the small guages is simply replacing the bulbs. the speedo and tach are ultra-tiny LEDS soldered onto the board. Not a job for the faint of heart and better left to the professionals.

there are 3 screws across the windshield on the outer-side of the fairing
there are 2 screws on the inside of the fairing (1 on each side) just above the wind-deflector
there are 2 screws inside the forks in front of the fuel tank. turn your handle bars to the left and right to see them.

It might be that in some cases, like mine, there is a need to remove them. No matter what I try I can to get the fairing past the lights.

A very helpful thread on the "how to" bye the way.