Cam chain tensioners which way to go?
#12
#13
I have nothing to contribute other than your Wide Glide is awesome! I have a 2002 that just turned 20k so I'll be paying attention here. Good to see another guy with one of these older bikes planning for the long haul. I agree with leaving the 88 alone, they move the glide around just fine as they are. Good luck
Thanks Johnny,
I like carbs because I can work on them without a computer. As far as I can tell the older twin cams are better engines except for this issue. Just trying to find the best possible fix.
#15
I just had to rebuild my engine [link's on the signature] and I went for the Cyco cam tensioner replacements...so far so good. Teflon sounds fancy, maybe they last longer?
#16
Put the se hydraulic upgrade kit in it and forget about all the other crap. It's by far the best bang for the buck and will last a lot longer than the cams and lifters. Another thing you want to look closely at while you're there is the condition of the cams and lifters as well as the inner tensioner. It's pretty common for the hardness to be coming off the cams and lifters by that mileage, I'd replace them as well while you're in there.
Are both cam and crank sprocket bolts the same sizes (1/2")? It's hard to tell from the picture. If so it's got the old style cam and bearing. I'd make sure the cam bearing issue has been fixed also.
Are both cam and crank sprocket bolts the same sizes (1/2")? It's hard to tell from the picture. If so it's got the old style cam and bearing. I'd make sure the cam bearing issue has been fixed also.
#17
Replace them with these:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...oRQmXI-cgoM5fw
And replace the inner cam bearings as well and you'll be good to go another 50,000 miles at least.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...oRQmXI-cgoM5fw
And replace the inner cam bearings as well and you'll be good to go another 50,000 miles at least.
Could be me (or my computer), but the link above seems to be for gaskets?
#18
Put the se hydraulic upgrade kit in it and forget about all the other crap. It's by far the best bang for the buck and will last a lot longer than the cams and lifters. Another thing you want to look closely at while you're there is the condition of the cams and lifters as well as the inner tensioner. It's pretty common for the hardness to be coming off the cams and lifters by that mileage, I'd replace them as well while you're in there.
Are both cam and crank sprocket bolts the same sizes (1/2")? It's hard to tell from the picture. If so it's got the old style cam and bearing. I'd make sure the cam bearing issue has been fixed also.
Are both cam and crank sprocket bolts the same sizes (1/2")? It's hard to tell from the picture. If so it's got the old style cam and bearing. I'd make sure the cam bearing issue has been fixed also.
#20
Gear drive.
Like HD used since they started in 1903.
The part you guys are not catching is that all they material from tensioners is now debris in you oil system and motor. 30-40K is where they fail, some earlier, some later depending on type of oil used and riding style. So, its not really a matter of 'ifi as much as when. Inner cam bearings and gear drive, it will be an old twiin cam some day like panheads and knuckleheads are now. So, long as you can find CV carb slide diaphrams...or just run an S&S carb.
You motor will be smoother and have a better feel with gear drive cams.
Like HD used since they started in 1903.
The part you guys are not catching is that all they material from tensioners is now debris in you oil system and motor. 30-40K is where they fail, some earlier, some later depending on type of oil used and riding style. So, its not really a matter of 'ifi as much as when. Inner cam bearings and gear drive, it will be an old twiin cam some day like panheads and knuckleheads are now. So, long as you can find CV carb slide diaphrams...or just run an S&S carb.
You motor will be smoother and have a better feel with gear drive cams.