Highest handlebars on Street Bob with STOCK cables etc
#1
#2
I went with the with Fred Codlin Bonanza II's. They are the tall ones. I think they are advertised as 15", but from the base of the bars to the peak at the top I measured 16". I had to move the clutch cable to the right down tube and route it on the right side of the neck and up through the middle of the apes. Re-routed the front brake cable till I was happy and I left off the little clamp on the back of the upper tree. Took a hammer and flattened out the 90 degree bend in the throttle cable and covered with heat shrink. Been running like this since 2008 and 20k miles with no issues and still all original cables and wiring. Oh and I got rid of the idle cable.
#5
Why, because it's one less cable visible. How, is to loosen it at the brass adjustment. Pull the intake off and unhook it from the throttle body. Cut the zip tie on the back bone right side (might need to lift the tank or slide it back, it's been a while). At the throttle grip unscrew the controls. Remove the idle cable from the grip and just pull it out of the grip housing. Then adjust the throttle cable accordingly. The shape of the grip will press against the housing inside as a natural stopper, so no the grip doesn't spin like some have tried to tell me before.
The idler cable brings the throttle body valve back to zero if the spring was to break. IMO if that throttle body spring broke I know where my clutch is and kill switch. Some are concerned because you can use that idler cable as a main throttle cable if the main one broke on the road. Personally if I was that full of what ifs I would tow a trailer behind the bike with gas cans, spare tires and so forth. So I went with less cables!! Been running like this since 2008 and never had any issues.
The idler cable brings the throttle body valve back to zero if the spring was to break. IMO if that throttle body spring broke I know where my clutch is and kill switch. Some are concerned because you can use that idler cable as a main throttle cable if the main one broke on the road. Personally if I was that full of what ifs I would tow a trailer behind the bike with gas cans, spare tires and so forth. So I went with less cables!! Been running like this since 2008 and never had any issues.
Last edited by JaronB; 10-21-2014 at 08:51 PM.
#6
Why is because it's less cables visible. How, is to loosen it at the brass adjustment. Pull the intake off and unhook it from the throttle body. Cut the zip tie on the back bone right side (might need to lift the tank or slide it back, it's been a while). At the throttle grip unscrew the controls. Remove the idle cable from the grip and just pull it out of the grip housing. Then adjust the throttle cable accordingly. The shape of the grip will press against the housing inside as a natural stopper, so no the grip doesn't spin like some have tried to tell me before.
The idler cable brings the throttle body valve back to zero if the spring was to break. IMO if that throttle body spring broke I know where my clutch is and kill switch. Some are concerned because you can use that idler cable as a main throttle cable if the main one broke on the road. Personally if I was that full of what ifs I would tow a trailer behind the bike with gas cans, spare tires and so forth. So I went with less cables!! Been running like this since 2008 and never had any issues.
The idler cable brings the throttle body valve back to zero if the spring was to break. IMO if that throttle body spring broke I know where my clutch is and kill switch. Some are concerned because you can use that idler cable as a main throttle cable if the main one broke on the road. Personally if I was that full of what ifs I would tow a trailer behind the bike with gas cans, spare tires and so forth. So I went with less cables!! Been running like this since 2008 and never had any issues.
That makes sense, it would definitely look nicer without the two cables running down, thanks for the explanation.
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