Monster,
Going to be an awesome build!
Subscribed!

 

Holy **** how did you end up with so much more tq?! Are you running the stock tranny behind that thing? I was worried that the longer stroke wouldn't rev as fast but Kirby convinced me that the 1/4" difference really won't even be noticeable. The 124 should rev pretty well too

 

Was wondering about those numbers too, SAE or STD? Big numbers for sure!

 

SAE
When we started doing this build I wanted torque. I didn't care about hp but I knew with tq hp is going up to.
We built the engine form a computer program. It took days to get it. My guy was a engineer for HD at one point. His heads can not be beat, he is good.
It took 5 months of planning and build it.
The only parts inside that are HD is the crank and cam plate pretty much.
You can build a engine for hp or tq and make advancements in one part of the engine power. HP/TQ. All parts must work a s a team, each part compliments another so it can perform better. I am sure all of you know this.
I bought the bike just for this.

I am using a Baker OD 6 transmission.
I had one objective and I saved until I could do it, took some time.
I would be divorced if my wife found out how much it cost.
It really revs unbelievably quick. you just touch the throttle and it jumps to 3,000 3,500 rpms



I had a child hood dream and have been fulfilling it. When I decided to do this I also decided cost would not be consider. What it was is what it was. Most or really wouldn't spend this kind of money on a engine. My 2 wheel days are getting close to a end for me. I wanted one last hot rod bike. I do have a trike kit for it that I put on sometimes.
Most of us can build some serious engines. I have read here at some of these. Like the OP he is going to have a ball on his. I promote this. There comes a time when you have to just face it, your not as good as you use to be. So I subcontracted my build out with each person involved was one of the best at what he does.
Too much talk, I'm sorry.

 

Not too much talk! I kinda remember now an old post you made on the build but now I know more than then and this stuff is soooo interesting! Sweet build!

 

Well I've run into my first issue.. I had a feeling this was coming. My main shaft bearing inner race is too close to the transmission to get the removing tool around it. It's only .080 from the drive gear. Book calls for .100-.125. The removal tool is .116 thick where it needs to slide in. I had an issue like this on my buddies dyna when he grenaded the transmission and we cut it off with a small cut off wheel. Difference is, we replaced his gear set. I don't want to use a cut off wheel if I don't have to.. Is there a way I can get that mainshaft to slide out just a little bit? Baker needs to come out with a high torque IPB for the newer dynas already!

 

I didn't read through all 9 pages - don't know what you're planning for exhaust. I have a really nice D & D Boarzilla 2-1 on ebay right now. 1/2 the price of a new one. 500 shipped for forum members.

 

Pull the trap door cover. Loosen the input nut. Love tap on it. That should push it out far enough to get the tool on it.

 

I'm assuming your talking about the locknut to the left on the gear set right behind the clutch release cover . How do I hold the mainshaft from spinning? The book says 55ft lbs on that nut. I can put the trans in gear but I don't want to break anything. Think it will be ok? And I guess I'm going to need that sprocket locking tool to do it that way too. Guess I should just bite the bullet and buy one

 

Spin the clutch retaining but back on the shaft (left hand threads) and put a wrench on it. 1 3/16 I believe. Then loosen the other lock nut.