What weight do you recommend and how much does it take and any seals or anything I need. Any any motorcycle shop should sell it right I should be around a couple tomorrow just not Harley one.

 

I can't speak to the weight if all you're going to do is change oil, but no seals necessary, just remove wheel, caliper, fender and fork tubes remove end cap and drain them, replace with new oil measured properly (remove springs, spacers, and washers when measuring oil).

Not sure if you got a chance to look at the link I gave you, but you may want to consider keeping your stock springs and simply going with the Ricor Intiminators, you can get them along with the oil and shipping for around $220. This would eliminate your brake dive and make for a MUCH better ride overall. Probably better than just changing the springs and requires the same amount of effort.

Do you have a shop manual, to get torque specs and such?

 

I installed Progressive Springs ($100 from Progressive Suspension) with new oil ($15) made a world of difference in reducing brake dive and improving the ride. Perhaps the Intimidator emulators would make it even better but I'm not looking to turn it into a track bike.

 

Last spring, I noticed that my front fender was hitting the top engine guard mount so I cleaned and rebuilt the front tubes. Twice. I made the mistake of using a generic aftermarket rebuild kit from a local metric dealer and both tubes blew the main seals within 10 miles of my garage. I ended up using HD parts like I should have done in the first place. I changed to 10 weight oil, and added about 3/4 inch preload. It handles much better and the sag is good, but there is still just a little too much dive on hard braking for my taste. Been waffling around new springs or Intiminators but I am leaning toward new springs before dampers. Either way, I am not looking forward to the fight getting that damn fork cap back on again...

 

I did look at the link and thought about buying them just want to make sure they are not going to be a waste. I do not have a manual that has all the torque specs so I guess I will have to shoot over to ebay and get one coming. I think I had the clymer manual already in watching so I guess will get one coming. I am just not sure if I should but the Ricor Intiminators or a 100.00 pair of progressive springs or change the oil and buy a set of adjusters. I would like to spend about 200.00 so figured I can do one of the three options.

 

Put in the Progressive springs and 10w Bel-Ray fork oil in the 02 Dyna. The forks feel like a brand new assembly.

 

2.5, 5, 7.5, 10, 12.5, 15

Lighter is faster, heavier is slower. Too heavy and the fork will not rebound on a rough road and pound to the point of collapse. Heavier is slower in and out.

Check your manual, weight and capacity is specified there for stock both dry and wet. You will be draining and filling a wet fork. there is a small screw at the bottom of the fork that can be removed to drain the oil. Volume is very critical, use Mom's measuring cup to get exactly what is specified. Replace the plug and pull the cap and pour it in then replace the cap. Just that simple if you don't have the cartridge type forks.

Again, check the manual and if it were me I would only go 2.5wt higher and try it.

 

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/oil-a...nd-models.html

This post suggests 20 wt and has wet and dry amounts for older bikes. Another post i found stated 15 wt was factory, I would get the manual and confirm wt before buying.

You said it only has a few k miles on it. Very unlikely that it has lost oil in a few thousand miles as the oil must come out at the top of the fork where the seal is around the fork tube. I would drain a fork into a measuring cup and replace with the exact same amount i took out.

 

I am not sure what is factory oil and if it has been changed I picked it up with 1429 miles but previous owner did all kinds of things to it he had rear shocks on as soft as would go and it would bottom out with my 150 pound *** on it. He also removed seat and installed one of them solo seats with the metal springs built in. So hard to say if he screwed with anything in front forks. Since he also added drag bars on it.

 

The oil is cheap and easy to replace, drain and refill with stock wt oil and test ride before making a radical change. I only say this because once I went to heavy and it was too heavy. Basically on a bumpy backroad the front wheel kept taking hits eventually the forks were bottomed out makingit tough to control on the bumps.