Dyna Glide Models Super Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

High revs at idle

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 04-04-2015, 03:40 PM
deewright's Avatar
deewright
deewright is offline
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: newbury, England
Posts: 82
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default High revs at idle

I have a 2012 Dyna Wide glide, had some issues with the revs cutting out when stuck in slow moving traffic, and also the bike was revving a bit high, around 1300 rpm at idle, also it was running a bit rough in 5th and 6th gear.
The dealership changed the CP unit and this seemed to resolve all issues, and for the last couple of weeks the bike has run just fine.
Today on a 100 mile run the engine revs when slowing down did not drop below 1500 to 1700 rpm
At idle the revs were at about 1700, then suddenly dropped to about 1040, which is normal idle revs.
After returning home the revs are jumping about all over the place, anything from 1230 to 1750.
Any ideas before I go back to the dealership and suffer another day of them plugging it into a computer and insisting there are no fault codes. This happened with the CP unit, and they didnt bother taking it for a test ride, when I explained the problems I was having.
Thanks
Dee
 
  #2  
Old 04-04-2015, 03:59 PM
deewright's Avatar
deewright
deewright is offline
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: newbury, England
Posts: 82
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I have found a old post relating to High Revs, that sound about right.
It talks about a screw that needs Loctite and also mentions resetting the ECU.
What screw are they talking about.
 
  #3  
Old 04-04-2015, 08:46 PM
CJeep's Avatar
CJeep
CJeep is offline
Road Captain
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 592
Received 46 Likes on 41 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by deewright
I have found a old post relating to High Revs, that sound about right.
It talks about a screw that needs Loctite and also mentions resetting the ECU.
What screw are they talking about.
Are you talking about this thread:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...le-issues.html

If so, that does not apply to your 2012. But take some advice from that thread and others, and start by cleaning your IAC.

You need to make sure it opens and closes while spraying it with cleaner. Stuff a rag into the throttle body, and spay that guy while having the ignition on and moving the thumbswitch to run then stop a few times.

The above fixed my stalling so far.

Or the IAC or TP sensor have gone bad and need to be replaced. You can do both yourself and its not a lot of money.

Try cleaning, then replacing those parts before looking at the complicated stuff.
 
  #4  
Old 04-05-2015, 02:21 PM
deewright's Avatar
deewright
deewright is offline
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: newbury, England
Posts: 82
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

sorry to sound thick, but what is a IAC.
 
  #5  
Old 04-05-2015, 03:18 PM
deewright's Avatar
deewright
deewright is offline
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: newbury, England
Posts: 82
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

OK Guys I have done some research, and will get cleaning asap.
If I take the air filter off, and put a cloth over the throttle butterfly, I presume the port I will be looking to clean will be above and in front of the throttle butterfly. Will carb cleaner and turning the run switch on and off free this up?
I don't really want to go back to the dealership, I may kill someone there.
 
  #6  
Old 04-05-2015, 04:12 PM
CJeep's Avatar
CJeep
CJeep is offline
Road Captain
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 592
Received 46 Likes on 41 Posts
Default

Yes, the IAC - Idle Air Control (or Circuit) is located at the top (12 o'clock) of the throttle body. It's hard to see it moving, but when the fuel pump energizes, the plunger changes position - pretty sure it opens, and then closes when you turn it to stop.

Even though it is not as strong, I used MAP sensor cleaner on it, and some black goo did come off when sprayed, but MAP cleaner is less harsh to the sensor parts, although I don't thing the IAC actually senses anything, just opens and closes the a hole to allow the bike to idle.

I've done a handful of riding, with lots of starts & stops since I cleaned mine, and I have no idle issues. I suspect it will gum up again one day, and I'll clean it again. Remember the oil blow-by gets pumped into the throttle body - thanks EPA.
 
  #7  
Old 04-06-2015, 11:05 AM
deewright's Avatar
deewright
deewright is offline
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: newbury, England
Posts: 82
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Well, I cleaned the IAC as best I can, it was covered in black stuff.
Now its nice and bright. I could not see it move when I went from run to stop several times.
There is some improvement but the bike is still revving approx. 1250 at idle.
It runs well enough, but I think a trip to the dealership for them to look at it, as it is under warranty until June.
Just didn't want to go through grieve with them again, but I will not go any further with the bike.
By the way, no fault codes, what a surprise
 
  #8  
Old 04-06-2015, 12:20 PM
enodrano's Avatar
enodrano
enodrano is offline
Road Captain
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 600
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

I assume from your post data that you have a tachometer. If so, is it factory installed or aftermarket? Also, is just the tach jumping around or can you actually feel the engine rev? 1100 - 1200 RPM is not an unusual idle speed. Also the RPM is controlled by what gear you're in and how fast you're traveling at the time. Make sure when you're troubleshooting that the conditions are the same each time. You also do not mention if you have a tuner or not. If so, you may want to take it out of the mix or return to the factory map to see if that's causing your issue.

There are several other things that could cause a engine to rev or jump like you're experiencing.

Spark plugs are in bad condition or dirty.
Spark plug wires are in bad condition or not water tight.
Spark plug gap is incorrect
Dirt or water in the fuel system or filter (Common if you store your motorcycle with an empty fuel tank.)
Fuel vent system plugged
Dirty fuel injectors
Throttle cable is sticking
Weak Battery
Short circuited wires.
ECU/Tuner has a incorrect or corrupted map.

Your best bet right now since it's still under warrenty is to have the dealer look into it. Don't worry about hounding them becasue after June it becomes your responsibility.

Good Luck!
 
  #9  
Old 04-06-2015, 03:24 PM
Jetbob's Avatar
Jetbob
Jetbob is offline
Novice
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Idaho
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Might want to check throttle cable adjustment, and might sound dumb but make sure your throttle friction lock is backed all the way off.

Could verify it is not cable adjustment by making sure the throttle cam is bottomed on the idle stop on the throttle body
 

Last edited by Jetbob; 04-06-2015 at 03:27 PM.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
scotsport
Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel Injection
0
09-21-2013 03:43 PM
Cowpokey
General Harley Davidson Chat
39
04-25-2012 11:02 PM
scuba biker
Sportster Models
3
06-24-2010 12:51 PM
Sketz
Touring Models
3
02-19-2009 07:40 PM
Chief101
Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel Injection
7
10-15-2006 03:41 PM



Quick Reply: High revs at idle



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:27 PM.