So I just changed the oil in my primary for the first time on my new to me '03 Super. I consulted the service manual, which said,

"Pour 26 oz of primary chaincase lubricant in through the clutch inspection cover opening. The primary chaincase lubricant level is acceptable when lubricant is visible in the bottom of the chaincase with the motorcycle standing upright."

So I poured 26 oz of primary chaincase lubricant in through the clutch inspection cover opening. No primary chaincase lubricant visible in the bottom of the chaincase with the motorcycle standing upright though, in fact, no lubricant was visible in the chaincase at all.

So I added some more primary chaincase lubricant in through the clutch inspection cover opening until the primary chaincase lubricant level was visible in the bottom of the chaincase. ... with the motorcycle standing upright of course. It wound up being about 36 oz of primary chaincase lubricant total.

So now everytime I pull the bike out to ride it I get this horrifyingly loud and unpleasant clunk when I first put the bike into gear. Didn't do that before.

I am using Mobil 1 10w40 motorcycle oil, which was recommended so as to avoid any friction modifiers, and was supposed to be the correct viscosity.

That damn oil costs ten bucks a quart.

Drain some out and have faith in the manual?

 

You fill it to the level is at the bottom of the diaphragm spring. Sounds like your bike is old enough you still have a primary chain inspection cover and you used that instead of the derby cover ( clutch inspection cover they were calling it). You overfilled. Drain immediately and pull derby cover and fill to bottom of diaphragm spring. They should have a little pic in the manual showing the level.

 

this is what I use and how much …. works for me.
Primary
Valvoline ATF type D or F
32oz

 

What slydog said.

 

Yep. The old gal has a chain inspection cover, but ... Nope. Looking at things through the derby cover.

It does appear that the oil level is around the bottom of the diaphragm spring... where it's supposed to be according the wisdom of the fora.

 

I'm clueless when it comes to this too, there's no room in the damn to see the oil level period,, I don't even know what they are talking about when they say clutch spring, if you fill it to the only part of the clutch you can see then that is way more than 28 ounces. the picture in the manual is completely worthless. I just put about 28 oz in mine, I have no idea what the level actually is,,


stupidest design, why doesn't cheap *** Harley just put a slight glass in like every other manufacturer I don't know,, you buy a $4,0000 250 cc ninja and it has a site glass for the oil level..


maybe this is why I seem to have a little trouble getting mine into neutral.


I guess you could try sticking a tooth pick or something in there to try & read the oil level.


I only use the dealer stuff in the primary, just so I know nothing will mess up the clutch.

 

Guys just go to youtube put in harley oil change it will show you step by step how to do anything you need to do to service your bike many vidios to look at for just about anything.

 

Last drain and refill I used 26oz. I fill a empty gear lube bottle and use that to fill the primary. Use a little flashlight and its easy to see. You can use a zip tie end, piece of wire,etc to double check its where you think it is. Should never exceed the 28oz unless the outer cover has been pulled. Either way 36 is too much.

 

Owners manual and SM for the '03's called for 26 ounces. I used a pre-marked measuring cup to pour the Valvoline SAE 30 through the inspection window using a small funnel. 36 ounces is way too much and you're going to have issues finding neutral,shifting and have some general unpleasantness with the primary.

You guys with inspection covers have got the best of all things. You can actually ADJUST your primary chain I always adjusted the primary chain and clutch at every primary fluid change. I'd open the inspection and derby, make the adjustments with the bike cold then button her up and take her for a nice ride to warm everything up then I'd dump the fluids in all 3 holes. At that point you only need to remove the inspection cover again, keep the derby in place.

If you're having problems finding neutral or shifting issues adjust your primary chain and clutch COLD, follow the SM procedures and it will be on the money. If you use the correct amount of lubricant, keep the clutch and primary consistently adjusted you'll be surprised how smoothly you can find neutral and shifting will be much improved, no sight glass needed or concerns about how much lubricant is in the primary, you'll know it's right by the feel.

Me, I miss the old way of doing things, I've got no love for the current HD primary auto adjuster with no inspection cover, that's HD being cheap, and my next upgrade is to replace the stock automatic tensioner unit with a Baker Attitude manual adjuster, might as well replace the stock compensator with the Baker unit while I'm in there, I'll just have to pull the primary cover to make the primary adjustments, oh well...

 

Well I put the bike back on the jack and took another look at things. I drained the oil out and refilled the primary with 26 oz of oil. If I shine a flashlight down in the clutch cover hole, I can just barely see the oil.
The loud clunk is now conspicuously absent.

Learn something new every day.

Thanks for the advice.