RAKED FORK CUPS
#1
RAKED FORK CUPS
Whats up all----i was thinking of changing the triple tree..witha 3 degree rake,,but from waht i have been told,raked bearing cups would be better,beacuse you do not have to worry about the trail on the bike...i was woundering if any one have used these cups & how you liked them..& what the pro & cons of them are...thanks..oh by the way i have a04 superglide..
#2
#3
#4
RE: RAKED FORK CUPS
I'm pretty sure these will not work with 06 and newer Dynas because the cups are built into the neck. If the '04 has separate neck cups, then I think you'll be alright. The other thing that *might* be a problem is if your trees have some rake built into them. I *think* the raked cups are taller and if you have raked trees, the spacing between upper and lower must remain the same. Trees with no rake can be spaced differently without any problems.
I'm not 100%, just giving you some ideas of things to look into.
Kevin
I'm not 100%, just giving you some ideas of things to look into.
Kevin
#6
RE: RAKED FORK CUPS
I have a 04 lowrider. 3 degree cups and 2000 FXST front end with 3 degree raked trees. 2" overstock front tubes with progressive springs and lowered 1". The rake kit came complete with cups, bearings, and longer neck post.
1. The stock bearing races are installed directly in the neck.
2. You remove the races and install the cups where the races were removed from into the neck, this offsets the the new races and adds the proper angle, it also adds about 1" to the overall length of the neck.
3. I drilled into the sides of the neck post and added a couple of 1/8" roll pins to keep everything in one place.
4. You then install the new races.
5. Next you have to press the neck post out of the bottom tree and press in the new replacement post which is about 1" longer.
6. Reassemble and adjust fall away.
What I've learned?
1. 38 degree rake makes for a very stable bike on the interstate. But the front end is a lot heavier at low speeds. Not uncontrollable but takes a little getting used to.
2. The fork lock no longer works ( there is no notch machined into the replacement post). However, the next time I have the front end apart I plan on fixing that.
3. Because of the angle change, the handlebars are a bit lower and back. Also the top tree comes very close to the gas tank. As a result I was only able to add 1 1/2" lift to the gas tank.
I can not say about the fitment on any other bikes, but it was not too difficult on mine. I would also suggest access to a 10 ton press. If you use custom trees you will have to have a longer neck post either machined or provided by the manufacture of the trees. The pictures below show the cups up close (the chrome piece on top of the neck). Alo the stance. This is an older picture before I added 11 1/2" progressive 440's and lowered the front end 1". The stance is about the same except 1" overall drop in ground clerance.
Any questions?
[IMG]local://upfiles/6102/89C9E93D71024ED3B473578D07826FE0.gif[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/6102/CA9E845868C549A0A091653928F3C413.gif[/IMG]
1. The stock bearing races are installed directly in the neck.
2. You remove the races and install the cups where the races were removed from into the neck, this offsets the the new races and adds the proper angle, it also adds about 1" to the overall length of the neck.
3. I drilled into the sides of the neck post and added a couple of 1/8" roll pins to keep everything in one place.
4. You then install the new races.
5. Next you have to press the neck post out of the bottom tree and press in the new replacement post which is about 1" longer.
6. Reassemble and adjust fall away.
What I've learned?
1. 38 degree rake makes for a very stable bike on the interstate. But the front end is a lot heavier at low speeds. Not uncontrollable but takes a little getting used to.
2. The fork lock no longer works ( there is no notch machined into the replacement post). However, the next time I have the front end apart I plan on fixing that.
3. Because of the angle change, the handlebars are a bit lower and back. Also the top tree comes very close to the gas tank. As a result I was only able to add 1 1/2" lift to the gas tank.
I can not say about the fitment on any other bikes, but it was not too difficult on mine. I would also suggest access to a 10 ton press. If you use custom trees you will have to have a longer neck post either machined or provided by the manufacture of the trees. The pictures below show the cups up close (the chrome piece on top of the neck). Alo the stance. This is an older picture before I added 11 1/2" progressive 440's and lowered the front end 1". The stance is about the same except 1" overall drop in ground clerance.
Any questions?
[IMG]local://upfiles/6102/89C9E93D71024ED3B473578D07826FE0.gif[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/6102/CA9E845868C549A0A091653928F3C413.gif[/IMG]
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07-13-2009 09:21 AM