Jagg low mount fan assisted oil cooler installation
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Strange that it would have you go all the way to the rear switch just for a ground. Something weird with the wiring setup.
Agreed, waiting for a response from jagg. I'm hoping that it's as simple as maybe having plugged it into the wrong prong. Someone on another forum I posted on said that I shouldn't even be using the rear brake switch and to find my power elsewhere but I'm not particularly good at electrical so not quite sure yet.
Looks good! I'm glad you upgraded the oil line and clamps, as stilup also has said, they are not exactly high end and need to be changed out, the Jagg supplied line is 50 PSI rated and if you were to touch them with the bike hot and running you could feel they had swelled up, I think that was what was working the supplied worm gear clamps loose. After I went to the Gates 400 PSI reinforced transmission oil cooler line and fuel injection clamps there has been no issues after near 3k miles.
I've got several feet of AN-6 3/8" I.D. braided stainless steel line and AN fittings sitting here to upgrade the cooler to thermostatic adapter connections but with your and my oil cooler being a low mount I can't confirm the fittings are going to have enough clearance where the lines pass through the frame next to the voltage regulator, it's going to be real close I may have to do another rethink on that but I will at a minimum cut and install the stainless line and use some new #7051227 injection clamps, the Gates line is working great but the stainless line would look sweet. Using the injection clamps I agree with stilup, we won't be removing them to drain the oil cooler, had we used a vertical cooler there wouldn't be any issues with clearance on upgraded fittings.
I'll post up a new image when I change out the lines to the AN-6 stainless. I hope you can chase out your electrical gremlin, maybe he's afraid of water?
Would definitely like to see how that works for you...please keep me updated!
Just re-read the instructions, I guess the switch has a hot prong and a ground prong. Specifically supposed to attach to the hot one. Maybe I just need to switch which I'll do later today.
Not sure if I was on the ground if that would cause the problem of having the lights on all the time once hot.
Just re-read the instructions, I guess the switch has a hot prong and a ground prong. Specifically supposed to attach to the hot one. Maybe I just need to switch which I'll do later today.
Not sure if I was on the ground if that would cause the problem of having the lights on all the time once hot.
I was able to find the switch in the wiring diagram in my FSM. It says that one wire goes to ground and the other wire goes to the ECM. I used the multi-meter and one of the wires on my bike is definitely ground, and the other wire seems like a signal wire based on it's behavior(no voltage until the key is on, then it has ~12, but drops straight to 0 volts whenever the pedal is pushed.)
It appears to me that Jagg has not updated their wiring/instructions for can-bus bikes. Our bikes do not run 12v power through the rear brake light switch anymore like the previous models apparently did.
The fix should be pretty simple, you just need another fused 12v power source. Whether that means running a wire with a fuse holder straight to the batter, or through an existing circuit on the bike is up to you. Perhaps Jagg will have a solution that doesn't require you buying more parts since they haven't updated their product.
I was able to find the switch in the wiring diagram in my FSM. It says that one wire goes to ground and the other wire goes to the ECM. I used the multi-meter and one of the wires on my bike is definitely ground, and the other wire seems like a signal wire based on it's behavior(no voltage until the key is on, then it has ~12, but drops straight to 0 volts whenever the pedal is pushed.)
It appears to me that Jagg has not updated their wiring/instructions for can-bus bikes. Our bikes do not run 12v power through the rear brake light switch anymore like the previous models apparently did.
The fix should be pretty simple, you just need another fused 12v power source. Whether that means running a wire with a fuse holder straight to the batter, or through an existing circuit on the bike is up to you. Perhaps Jagg will have a solution that doesn't require you buying more parts since they haven't updated their product.
Thank you so much I really appreciate the help! I'm going to send this information as well so that they're aware .
Just as a quick update, the advice here was bang on. I've spoken to the good folks at Jagg and it seems as if they will need to update the method of powering the fan on the new canbus bikes. They were super nice and offered to work out the solution and send me the parts. It seems though that it won't be that difficult. I drove to the dealer in Palm Springs and ordered a Canbus power adapter. Not quite sure how I'll work it out yet but seems like it's going to be a pretty simple soldiering job. For now I've just got the wire for the fan zip tied to the underside of the frame.
Will update once I receive the adapter next week and get it in!
Just as a quick update, the advice here was bang on. I've spoken to the good folks at Jagg and it seems as if they will need to update the method of powering the fan on the new canbus bikes. They were super nice and offered to work out the solution and send me the parts. It seems though that it won't be that difficult. I drove to the dealer in Palm Springs and ordered a Canbus power adapter. Not quite sure how I'll work it out yet but seems like it's going to be a pretty simple soldiering job. For now I've just got the wire for the fan zip tied to the underside of the frame.
Will update once I receive the adapter next week and get it in!
Cool. I can't believe it's taken this long for someone to notify them. Either they don't sell many fan assisted, or there are a lot of guys out there with fans that don't turn on.
Cool. I can't believe it's taken this long for someone to notify them. Either they don't sell many fan assisted, or there are a lot of guys out there with fans that don't turn on.
You're right, the fellow I spoke to mentioned that they had not received many comments with problems. Probably the ones they did receive were of the various gremlin style. He was apologetic and definitely wanted to make things right. I appreciate that, but just want to make sure that they update for the others.
I'm hoping that this canbus Power adapter is a pretty simple thing
So as mentioned in the last couple of posts, FAN ASSISTED JAGG COOLERS SHOULD NOT BE HOOKED UP TO THE REAR BRAKE POWER ON CANBUS BIKES. Jagg has not updated this information in their instructions yet so my suggestion should you purchase one of these units is to follow up with a call to Jagg and get them to send you a longer wire harness along with any parts needed to splice into an available line. They are working on a permanent solution.
The one suggested to me by someone was the HD Canbus Electrical Connection Kit part number 72673-11. This has multiple pigtails that draw power from various lines i.e. direct from battery, when ignition is turned to accessories, etc. each pigtail can handle up to 2 16g accessory wires. Pic below
Of course I had to extend the wire since I was no longer going from the bottom of the downtube back along the rear brake pedal rod to the switch. I decided to go up the front of the frame alongside the clutch cable and under the gas tank into the cavity below the seat (nice and cluttered). The current canbus connection is located under the left side cover of the bike and I have my FP3 tuner attached to it.
Cut the previous end off the wire and prepped to soldier an extra 14 inches to ensure adequate length.
Last edited by robbyville; 09-30-2015 at 07:52 PM.
09-15-2015, 07:46 AM
I may have to do another rethink on that but I will at a minimum cut and install the stainless line and use some new #7051227 injection clamps, the Gates line is working great but the stainless line would look sweet. Using the injection clamps I agree with stilup, we won't be removing them to drain the oil cooler, had we used a vertical cooler there wouldn't be any issues with clearance on upgraded fittings. 
