Hi folks,

It's been a while since any additions to the bike but with the heat of the new home (average temps over 100 every day), I finally got off my butt, ordered and have (almost) installed the titled unit. My pics of the install aren't as detailed as usual. That's the joy of working in a garage with these hot days, dripping with sweat and wanting to get done as quickly as possible vs. winter mods which seem to be fun in themselves!

EDIT, NEW WIRING FOR FAN CONNECTION FOR CANBUS BIKES ON PAGE 2-3

First off the cooler...

I opted for the Low mount and fan assisted Jagg 10 row oil cooler. I got a great deal shopping around, roughly $420 shipped. I decided on the fan assisted since I now deal with more traffic lights and volume than I did while in VA where all my riding was pretty rural.

The fan assisted unit is only slightly more complex than the standard in that you need to disassemble one of the pipe fittings and install a small metal splitter of sorts which the fan switch screws into. My understanding is that oil passes by the fan switch temp probe and if the oil is over 180 degrees then the fan turns on.

The cooler also has a wiring harness which piggy backs onto the rear brake connectors (by the reservoir) to power the fan. More on this later.

The instructions are pretty reasonable once you read them a few times but the photos suck. The kit comes with everything you need, including zip ties. The only exception is that you will need to buy teflon thread sealant (Permatex 592 or similar) needed to re-assemble the fittings noted above. I don't think you would require this if you were using the standard cooler.

I heeded the good advice of TinCupChalice, and bought some new hose and clamp fittings since he had some problems with the included ones. I'm sure they would have been fine but for $8 I figured I would get better clamps and hose.

Here is a stock pic of the kit since I forgot to take one. You can see the wiring harness and the little metal pipe splitter which are the different parts from the norm.




I started simply enough by jacking up the bike and removing the oil filter and clean up all the surfaces. I was able to keep the stock filter nipple.



Then you disassemble the Jagg adapter plate (front and back section), and install the back plate against your engine filter mount, pic below.

 

At this point you take the front plate of the adapter and remove the left hose fitting, screw the metal splitter in (use permatex high temp teflon thread sealant 59214), then thread the removed hose fitting into the splitter along with the fan switch.

NOW... be careful installing the fan switch, I mistakenly applied some pressure to the area above the hex flats and here's what happened! Bye Bye switch. I did this over labor day weekend so decided to continue with the install without the wiring.




The other thing you do with the front adapter plate is install this anti rotation devise (little silver bent piece of steel on the lower right of the adpater). Essentially you place this piece and then test fit the front plate onto the back plate with the anti-rotation device just barely touching the engine case, then you cinch down the rear plate in that orientation.

Once these steps are complete you can screw the front plate onto the rear one with the jagg gasket between the two.

 

Since I was continuing with the install I basically had to jump around the instructions a bit. Hoping that I wouldn't need to remove all the components once the new switch was received.

Quick note on that... Called Jagg when they opened on Tuesday. The person I spoke with (Zack), was super nice and didn't make me feel like a jackass for breaking the switch. He also sent me a new one at half price of retail ($15) and got it in the mail the same day. I received the switch yesterday. Great customer service!

At this point I installed the cooler itself. It's a pretty snug fit against the frame since the fan sticks out from the back a bit. I had also used some thread lock when installing my front motor mount so I needed a little heat to loosen the hex bolts so I could slide the cooler behind the washers, then tightened the bolts back to spec. From here on in things get pretty snug from a stubby working finger standpoint. Since I'm not doing the wires all that's left is cutting the hose and clamping them to the fittings. Trying to avoid tight bends. This went pretty smoothly so I re-attached the oil filter and topped up the oil by more than a few ounces (must have needed some anyway). First couple of rides were no more than 30 minutes but cyclinder head temp never went beyond 290 despite being over 100 ambient and a little traffic.










So as mentioned. I received the new fan switch yesterday. I was hoping to be able to unscrew the broken one and just put the new one on and attach the wires. No such luck, way too tight to get working in there so I had to remove the oil filter again. Of course, despite all the cleaning up when I removed the stub of the old probe oil came out that I needed to clean. getting the threads started on the new probe essentially by feel alone (really tight quarters) was good fun. once I got it started I added some more thread sealant and screwed it in a quarter turn at a time being uber careful with my wrench so as not to repeat my mistake of last week! Here you can see the new probe attached with copper prongs.



So at this point I connected the wiring harness to the probe and routed it back along the frame towards the rear brake connector where it draws it power from. Big challenge it was about 2 inches too short! So freaking bummed, figured I'd have to call Jagg in the morning and see if they make a longer harness. I think I'll do this anyway just to let them know. I tried every routing I could possible attempt, no go. Then I realized that I had my trusty soldiering gun and some wire from when I did my turn signal extensions so figured why not give it a shot. Cut the wire and soldiered them up. Once done, I realized that I don't have any electrical tape or heat shrink so I'm now stuck until I can get to the store to pick some up so I'll continue this afterwards and get some pics of the finished product.

 

Okey dokey,

Finished up the wiring today. pretty simple. Took a short ride in the 95 degree morning and the temp on the cylinder heads definitely seemed to climb slower. Didn't do enough riding to see if they would lower faster but with various traffic lights and such over a 10 mile or so ride the head temps never got above 305 at the end.

I'm not sure if the fan ever turned on, I couldn't hear it (why would I over the engine lol), nor could I feel anything when I put my hand in front of the cooler but for all I know the oil temp didn't get high enough. Not sure what the relation between oil temp and cylinder head temp is. If anyone else knows that would be awesome!

One little mystery that may or may not be related... When I installed the wiring my brake lights worked just fine and dandy. When I got back from my ride, the brake lights were on and would not go off. Figured I would check the switch in my brake lever later on. Went back to the bike a couple of hours later to move it into the garage (it had cooled), and the lights were fine. Maybe instead of turning on the fan it's turning on my brake lights?

Here are some pics but hard to see the wiring route. Essentially just zip tied to the underside of the frame leading to the brake switch by the rear wheel where you can see the piggy back connector.

 

Is it so bad where you're at with the drought that you can't even wash your bike

Well, except for the brake light thingy looks like you did a good job, other than that how's the west treating ya

 

I have a Jagg six row vertical cooler and the supplied hose and clamps were **** for sure.
I had them double clamped and one broke away and spilled hot oil all over my bike and I was going through the twisties and almost lost it.
I replaced the hose with stainless braided with high compression fittings.
Modified the cooler to accept 1/8 NPT.
I have the thermal adapter that opens when hot. No fan. No switch.
Using the stop I had to use a smaller screw head as the c'bore was blocked by the added stop and leaked so I used a(very slight) coat of loctite 518 flange sealer.
That worked.
One thing is when I first installed the adapter to the rubber ring gasket I didn't want to over tighten but after a year it vibrated loose and leaked slightly so after purchasing a rebuild kit I this time I tightened that adapter to the rubber allot better. No leaks anymore.
The nice part of compression fittings is being able to take the hoses off and drain the cooler as well at oil change time without disturbing the hose ends you would get with the stock supplied hoses.
I do like your fittings but you wouldn't want to disconnect them too much as it will eventually leak.

 

Strange that it would have you go all the way to the rear switch just for a ground. Something weird with the wiring setup.

 

SUEDE, great to hear from you!!

I hate to say it but it's been so freaking hot I've barely ridden and true enough I've only washed the bike once right after I got here and after trailering through rain and such!

Being out here had been a ton of fun other than being unemployed which I haven't been since 1986. I am enjoying the break though, spending time with the boy and family, riding the bicycle every morning. Starting to get a bit itchy though.

At any rate, going to wash and wax the mc tomorrow to get it all purty...

 

Thanks for the advice! I'll definitely look at braided lines and compression fittings at some point

 

Looks good! I'm glad you upgraded the oil line and clamps, as stilup also has said, they are not exactly high end and need to be changed out, the Jagg supplied line is 50 PSI rated and if you were to touch them with the bike hot and running you could feel they had swelled up, I think that was what was working the supplied worm gear clamps loose. After I went to the Gates 400 PSI reinforced transmission oil cooler line and fuel injection clamps there has been no issues after near 3k miles.

I've got several feet of AN-6 3/8" I.D. braided stainless steel line and AN fittings sitting here to upgrade the cooler to thermostatic adapter connections but with your and my oil cooler being a low mount I can't confirm the fittings are going to have enough clearance where the lines pass through the frame next to the voltage regulator, it's going to be real close I may have to do another rethink on that but I will at a minimum cut and install the stainless line and use some new #7051227 injection clamps, the Gates line is working great but the stainless line would look sweet. Using the injection clamps I agree with stilup, we won't be removing them to drain the oil cooler, had we used a vertical cooler there wouldn't be any issues with clearance on upgraded fittings.

I'll post up a new image when I change out the lines to the AN-6 stainless. I hope you can chase out your electrical gremlin, maybe he's afraid of water?