Choosing the right torque wrench...
#11
10-13-2015, 07:43 AM
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#12
10-13-2015, 08:27 AM
Elite HDF Member
I use 3 different "click type" CDI torque wrenches, not cheap but not Snap On expensive either. All made in the USA and have been great to use. The smallest 3/8" one is for in lbs(50 to 250), the middle 3/8" one is for the lower ft lbs(15 to 75), and the biggest 1/2" one is for the higher ft lbs(50 to 250).
I also have a small 1/4" little "torque" wrench that cost about $40 that has a scale from 0 to 60 in lbs that a needle points to as you tighten a small fastener.
I also have a small 1/4" little "torque" wrench that cost about $40 that has a scale from 0 to 60 in lbs that a needle points to as you tighten a small fastener.
#13
10-13-2015, 10:23 AM
#15
10-13-2015, 11:02 AM
Thank you all for your feedback. Seems to me I'll have to buy two now:
1. INCH-LBS for the smaller bolts (covers, cam chest, engine)
2. FT-LBS for the larger pieces (compensator, fork caps, wheels, etc)
As far as brands go, I've seen you recommended Craftsman, Tekton, and Pittsburgh...guess I'll stick to those. Snap On is just too rich for me, and it's not like I make my living out of this.
1. INCH-LBS for the smaller bolts (covers, cam chest, engine)
2. FT-LBS for the larger pieces (compensator, fork caps, wheels, etc)
As far as brands go, I've seen you recommended Craftsman, Tekton, and Pittsburgh...guess I'll stick to those. Snap On is just too rich for me, and it's not like I make my living out of this.
#16
10-13-2015, 11:04 AM
Cruiser
Thank you all for your feedback. Seems to me I'll have to buy two now:
1. INCH-LBS for the smaller bolts (covers, cam chest, engine)
2. FT-LBS for the larger pieces (compensator, fork caps, wheels, etc)
As far as brands go, I've seen you recommended Craftsman, Tekton, and Pittsburgh...guess I'll stick to those. Snap On is just too rich for me, and it's not like I make my living out of this.
1. INCH-LBS for the smaller bolts (covers, cam chest, engine)
2. FT-LBS for the larger pieces (compensator, fork caps, wheels, etc)
As far as brands go, I've seen you recommended Craftsman, Tekton, and Pittsburgh...guess I'll stick to those. Snap On is just too rich for me, and it's not like I make my living out of this.
#17
10-13-2015, 11:07 AM
Outstanding HDF Member
this is true with craftsman. I dont think it is as good as it use to be. Husky top end line (pros dont laugh) has become my go to tools when need. I have a ton of craftsman stuff but i got in all about 15 years ago
#18
10-13-2015, 11:29 AM
Cruiser
Agreed. Ive got a ton of older craftsman that I would put against anything in the world, but last year the local sears closed down and they had massive sales. I bought a ton of craftsman and was disappointed to say the least. Husky, Proto, Mac, Cobalt, etc., are all good options.
#19
10-13-2015, 11:38 AM
Torque Wrenches
The Marine Corps aviation squadrons calibrate their torque wrenches every 2 years. They always carry a sticker with the date it was done and the due date for the next. Maybe private aviation does theirs every 90 days but if that were the case you would need at least 2 of each size for each mechanic. Unless you use them for hammers or are throwing them at one another, that seems a bit excessive.
Dial type torque wrenches are cheaper but with them you always have to see the dial while pulling torque to know when you reach the proper level. I don't know if they hold calibration longer or not.
For those guys with the click type always run them down to the lowest torque setting on the wrench before storage.
#20
10-13-2015, 11:53 AM
Join Date: Jan 2011
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The Marine Corps aviation squadrons calibrate their torque wrenches every 2 years. They always carry a sticker with the date it was done and the due date for the next. Maybe private aviation does theirs every 90 days but if that were the case you would need at least 2 of each size for each mechanic. Unless you use them for hammers or are throwing them at one another, that seems a bit excessive.
Dial type torque wrenches are cheaper but with them you always have to see the dial while pulling torque to know when you reach the proper level. I don't know if they hold calibration longer or not.
For those guys with the click type always run them down to the lowest torque setting on the wrench before storage.
Dial type torque wrenches are cheaper but with them you always have to see the dial while pulling torque to know when you reach the proper level. I don't know if they hold calibration longer or not.
For those guys with the click type always run them down to the lowest torque setting on the wrench before storage.