Oh yeah, head work time
#21
01-22-2016, 11:52 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
Don't ever worry about hijacking one of my threads, great pics! Any tips on the order of doing things that might make the job easier? Can't wait to hear about your build. I almost kept my 57's, I have zero complaints with them, it was just suggested that the 574's would give me a bump in both hp and tq comparatively and I just figured in for a penny in for a pound!
Well, I have certainly learned a few things doing this so a few things over and above doing the cams, which you have done previously.
Once you take the heads off the bike, get some short lengths of plastic pipe about an inch or so long and stick them over the headbolts, then snug the headbolts down to keep the cylinders tight against the cylinder base o-rings.
I think your bike is a '14 or so, so you should probably get replacement breather assemblies (the new stamped ones). Also get new inlet manifold seals while you are at it.
Once you have the breather assemblies off, think about drilling out the oil return holes while you are in there which should result in less blow by from the breathers. I used a 2.5mm drill, but I have seen both 0.089" and 0.125" recommended by others here.
Some tools that will really help with the rear rocker box assembly and the intake manifold are a Yost intake manifold wrench, a long ball ended 1/4" hex socket and two Snap-On "dog bone" torque adaptors (FRDH141 and FRDH161). Also a small 1/4" torque wrench. Finally, a low profile 7/16" socket will also be extremely helpful. Getting proper torque on all the rear rocker box fasteners is a bit of a bugger without these.
Once you get the intake manifold off, you might also consider replacing the two left hand side allen bolts with regular hex head bolts as well. That'll make it easier to put it back together.
There will probably be lots of gasket material left on the cylinder tops that you will need to clean off. I used the plastic razor blades and some ultra fine scotchbrite for this. That mating surface needs to be nice and clean.
You will also need a 12 point, 1/2 socket for the cylinder head bolts. Maybe a breaker bar as well.
Consider fitting a set of "rocker lockers" or similar bushes to the rocker assemblies while you have it all open.
That's about it for now....I need to do my pushrods tomorrow then put the rest of the bike back together and see if she fires up.
Good luck and have fun! It will be interesting to compare numbers when we get both bikes up, running and tuned!
Last edited by adm; 01-23-2016 at 05:07 PM.
#22
01-22-2016, 12:20 PM
Hmmmm....tips...
Well, I have certainly learned a few things doing this so a few things over and above doing the cams, which you have done previously.
Once you take the heads off the bike, get some short lengths of plastic pipe about an inch or so long and stick them over the headbolts, then snug the headbolts down to keep the cylinders tight against the cylinder base o-rings.
I think your bike is a '14 or so, so you should probably get replacement breather assemblies (the new stamped ones). Also get new inlet manifold seals while you are at it.
Once you have the breather assemblies off, think about drilling out the oil return holes while you are in there which should result in less blow by from the breathers. I used a 2.5mm drill, but I have seen both 0.089" and 0.125" recommended by others here.
Some tools that will really help with the rear rocker box assembly and the intake manifold are a Yost intake manifold wrench, a long ball ended 1/4" hex socket and two Snap-On "dog bone" torque adaptors (FRDH141 and FRDH). Also a small 1/4" torque wrench. Finally, a low profile 7/16" socket will also be extremely helpful. Getting proper torque on all the rear rocker box fasteners is a bit of a bugger without these.
Once you get the intake manifold off, you might also consider replacing the two right hand side allen bolts with regular hex head bolts as well. That'll make it easier to put it back together.
There will probably be lots of gasket material left on the cylinder tops that you will need to clean off. I used the plastic razor blades and some ultra fine scotchbrite for this. That mating surface needs to be nice and clean.
You will also need a 12 point, 1/2 socket for the cylinder head bolts. Maybe a breaker bar as well.
Consider fitting a set of "rocker lockers" or similar bushes to the rocker assemblies while you have it all open.
That's about it for now....I need to do my pushrods tomorrow then put the rest of the bike back together and see if she fires up.
Good luck and have fun! It will be interesting to compare numbers when we get both bikes up, running and tuned!
Well, I have certainly learned a few things doing this so a few things over and above doing the cams, which you have done previously.
Once you take the heads off the bike, get some short lengths of plastic pipe about an inch or so long and stick them over the headbolts, then snug the headbolts down to keep the cylinders tight against the cylinder base o-rings.
I think your bike is a '14 or so, so you should probably get replacement breather assemblies (the new stamped ones). Also get new inlet manifold seals while you are at it.
Once you have the breather assemblies off, think about drilling out the oil return holes while you are in there which should result in less blow by from the breathers. I used a 2.5mm drill, but I have seen both 0.089" and 0.125" recommended by others here.
Some tools that will really help with the rear rocker box assembly and the intake manifold are a Yost intake manifold wrench, a long ball ended 1/4" hex socket and two Snap-On "dog bone" torque adaptors (FRDH141 and FRDH). Also a small 1/4" torque wrench. Finally, a low profile 7/16" socket will also be extremely helpful. Getting proper torque on all the rear rocker box fasteners is a bit of a bugger without these.
Once you get the intake manifold off, you might also consider replacing the two right hand side allen bolts with regular hex head bolts as well. That'll make it easier to put it back together.
There will probably be lots of gasket material left on the cylinder tops that you will need to clean off. I used the plastic razor blades and some ultra fine scotchbrite for this. That mating surface needs to be nice and clean.
You will also need a 12 point, 1/2 socket for the cylinder head bolts. Maybe a breaker bar as well.
Consider fitting a set of "rocker lockers" or similar bushes to the rocker assemblies while you have it all open.
That's about it for now....I need to do my pushrods tomorrow then put the rest of the bike back together and see if she fires up.
Good luck and have fun! It will be interesting to compare numbers when we get both bikes up, running and tuned!
#23
01-22-2016, 12:20 PM
[QUOTE=rauchman;14766401]
You and I both. Internally I'm hoping for around 115hp and similar in tq. May be a pipe dream though.
With the cams alone I was somewhere around 77hp (pre supertrapp 2:1)) and 100.8 tq. But I like to think that Chad's machine was reading low!
Sure thing, I'll let you know once done. I imagine they're in great shape, probably about 2000 miles on them, I'll let them go cheap to a person I know will use them appropriately 
QUOTE]
Thanks for the info. And yes, they will be used appropriately!!!!
Very curious to see what power gains are realized by the heads as I've been giving this serious thought myself.
Again thanks and all the best in your efforts!
QUOTE]
Thanks for the info. And yes, they will be used appropriately!!!!
Very curious to see what power gains are realized by the heads as I've been giving this serious thought myself.
Again thanks and all the best in your efforts!
With the cams alone I was somewhere around 77hp (pre supertrapp 2:1)) and 100.8 tq. But I like to think that Chad's machine was reading low!
#24
01-22-2016, 12:24 PM
Hmmmm....tips...
Well, I have certainly learned a few things doing this so a few things over and above doing the cams, which you have done previously.
Once you take the heads off the bike, get some short lengths of plastic pipe about an inch or so long and stick them over the headbolts, then snug the headbolts down to keep the cylinders tight against the cylinder base o-rings.
I think your bike is a '14 or so, so you should probably get replacement breather assemblies (the new stamped ones). Also get new inlet manifold seals while you are at it.
Once you have the breather assemblies off, think about drilling out the oil return holes while you are in there which should result in less blow by from the breathers. I used a 2.5mm drill, but I have seen both 0.089" and 0.125" recommended by others here.
Some tools that will really help with the rear rocker box assembly and the intake manifold are a Yost intake manifold wrench, a long ball ended 1/4" hex socket and two Snap-On "dog bone" torque adaptors (FRDH141 and FRDH). Also a small 1/4" torque wrench. Finally, a low profile 7/16" socket will also be extremely helpful. Getting proper torque on all the rear rocker box fasteners is a bit of a bugger without these.
Once you get the intake manifold off, you might also consider replacing the two right hand side allen bolts with regular hex head bolts as well. That'll make it easier to put it back together.
There will probably be lots of gasket material left on the cylinder tops that you will need to clean off. I used the plastic razor blades and some ultra fine scotchbrite for this. That mating surface needs to be nice and clean.
You will also need a 12 point, 1/2 socket for the cylinder head bolts. Maybe a breaker bar as well.
Consider fitting a set of "rocker lockers" or similar bushes to the rocker assemblies while you have it all open.
That's about it for now....I need to do my pushrods tomorrow then put the rest of the bike back together and see if she fires up.
Good luck and have fun! It will be interesting to compare numbers when we get both bikes up, running and tuned!
Well, I have certainly learned a few things doing this so a few things over and above doing the cams, which you have done previously.
Once you take the heads off the bike, get some short lengths of plastic pipe about an inch or so long and stick them over the headbolts, then snug the headbolts down to keep the cylinders tight against the cylinder base o-rings.
I think your bike is a '14 or so, so you should probably get replacement breather assemblies (the new stamped ones). Also get new inlet manifold seals while you are at it.
Once you have the breather assemblies off, think about drilling out the oil return holes while you are in there which should result in less blow by from the breathers. I used a 2.5mm drill, but I have seen both 0.089" and 0.125" recommended by others here.
Some tools that will really help with the rear rocker box assembly and the intake manifold are a Yost intake manifold wrench, a long ball ended 1/4" hex socket and two Snap-On "dog bone" torque adaptors (FRDH141 and FRDH). Also a small 1/4" torque wrench. Finally, a low profile 7/16" socket will also be extremely helpful. Getting proper torque on all the rear rocker box fasteners is a bit of a bugger without these.
Once you get the intake manifold off, you might also consider replacing the two right hand side allen bolts with regular hex head bolts as well. That'll make it easier to put it back together.
There will probably be lots of gasket material left on the cylinder tops that you will need to clean off. I used the plastic razor blades and some ultra fine scotchbrite for this. That mating surface needs to be nice and clean.
You will also need a 12 point, 1/2 socket for the cylinder head bolts. Maybe a breaker bar as well.
Consider fitting a set of "rocker lockers" or similar bushes to the rocker assemblies while you have it all open.
That's about it for now....I need to do my pushrods tomorrow then put the rest of the bike back together and see if she fires up.
Good luck and have fun! It will be interesting to compare numbers when we get both bikes up, running and tuned!
You're the second person to mention the rocker lockers. I know they're reasonably priced, so guess I'll get a set as well.
#25
01-22-2016, 01:49 PM
4th Gear
Join Date: Feb 2015
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Good luck on the build, I have an 07 Bob that I want to take a very similar approach with. Looking at getting 574 cams this winter and bump it up to a 10.5:1 103 with headwork and possibly the 50mm SE tb this time next year. Love the bike by the way, I just convinced the wife that I need those bags! 
#26
01-22-2016, 02:11 PM
Good luck on the build, I have an 07 Bob that I want to take a very similar approach with. Looking at getting 574 cams this winter and bump it up to a 10.5:1 103 with headwork and possibly the 50mm SE tb this time next year. Love the bike by the way, I just convinced the wife that I need those bags!
good luck to you as well!
#27
01-22-2016, 02:19 PM
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#28
01-22-2016, 02:20 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
On the throttle body question, my head flow numbers are similar to Robby's at about 270 cfm on the intake.
I asked the guy that did my heads to measure the flow of the stock (48mm????) throttle body, and it tops out at about 245 cfm, so there is some restriction from the throttle body now and the heads can flow more air than the throttle body. How noticeable this would be in real life as opposed to on the flow bench is a different question as there are so many variables.
I am currently thinking about where to go with a new throttle body, what size etc. Currently torn between HPI and the SE 58mm versions - although I think 58mm one might actually be a bit too big and decrease velocity.
I asked the guy that did my heads to measure the flow of the stock (48mm????) throttle body, and it tops out at about 245 cfm, so there is some restriction from the throttle body now and the heads can flow more air than the throttle body. How noticeable this would be in real life as opposed to on the flow bench is a different question as there are so many variables.
I am currently thinking about where to go with a new throttle body, what size etc. Currently torn between HPI and the SE 58mm versions - although I think 58mm one might actually be a bit too big and decrease velocity.
Last edited by adm; 01-23-2016 at 05:10 PM.
#29
01-22-2016, 02:23 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
Awesome thank you so much!! I have a breather system already installed and thankfully the 1/4" torque wrench and ball ends. I will pick up the others that you mention.
You're the second person to mention the rocker lockers. I know they're reasonably priced, so guess I'll get a set as well.
You're the second person to mention the rocker lockers. I know they're reasonably priced, so guess I'll get a set as well.
On the torque adaptors, they are FRDH141 (7/16”) and FRDH161 (1/2”) - I got the part number wrong in the earlier post.