Finally... project starts today
#11
04-11-2016, 09:27 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
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Thanks for your opinion Spanner. I've read several posts where the feet wore out much earlier than that... on 07 and up models... so you know, ounce of prevention kinda thing going on here...
So tell me, how do 'you' inspect the tensioner on the cam-to-cam chain? Or do you assume it's condition based on the condition of the crank-to-cam chain tensioner.
I guess I'm lucky I'm me, 'cause I like old skool, and all the jobs I do are 'proper'. I simply didn't want to pull rockers this time around. In a year or two when I do cams... I'll consider it, 'cause there may be head-work happening at the same time.
Cheers
So tell me, how do 'you' inspect the tensioner on the cam-to-cam chain? Or do you assume it's condition based on the condition of the crank-to-cam chain tensioner.
I guess I'm lucky I'm me, 'cause I like old skool, and all the jobs I do are 'proper'. I simply didn't want to pull rockers this time around. In a year or two when I do cams... I'll consider it, 'cause there may be head-work happening at the same time.
Cheers
1: Use a tiny mirror, like a dentist uses
2: The rear tensioner wears 30% faster than the front so if the front is halfway worn it is time to do them as the rear will usually be at 75%.
#14
04-15-2016, 05:55 PM
#15
04-16-2016, 06:56 PM
Calibers rebuilt and new pads.
R&R the rear motor mount.
Test fit the new rear hub/rim combination with only the rotor bolted on. Need to loosen/tighten some spokes and move the rim over 1/4", to center it in the bike. Looks like I'll have plenty of room to do that.
Another test fit tomorrow planned after dialing in some offset
R&R the rear motor mount.
Test fit the new rear hub/rim combination with only the rotor bolted on. Need to loosen/tighten some spokes and move the rim over 1/4", to center it in the bike. Looks like I'll have plenty of room to do that.
Another test fit tomorrow planned after dialing in some offset
#16
04-17-2016, 08:09 PM
Hub/rim centered now... good to go there.
Got the Predator VCS front mount installed. Nice looking and well built piece.. can't wait to try it.
(have I said lately, just how bad the stock Dyna's front mount sucks, this was #2 and had completely separated)
Also, for those that are curious, I did inspect the cam chain tensionsers... pulled the outer one off to give a good close look... only about 1/3 of the way worn... even with 63k miles on it.
EDIT: sorry about the sideways pics...
Got the Predator VCS front mount installed. Nice looking and well built piece.. can't wait to try it.
(have I said lately, just how bad the stock Dyna's front mount sucks, this was #2 and had completely separated)
Also, for those that are curious, I did inspect the cam chain tensionsers... pulled the outer one off to give a good close look... only about 1/3 of the way worn... even with 63k miles on it.
EDIT: sorry about the sideways pics...
#18
04-21-2016, 08:42 AM
Club Member
#20
04-22-2016, 12:43 PM
I would not worry about using adjustable pushrods. If installed correctly, they will be fine. However, I would not bother touching the cam chest until you were going to do the cam swap while you were in there. If you are going through the trouble of looking at the tensioners, then just swap in a set of cams while you are in there. I can tell you that when I swapped my cams last year on my 2010, my tensioners looked perfect so I kept them in there.