2002 wide glide gas gauge
#2
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Never had one that was reliable and don't really understand why myself. I just know that I get about 40 mpg and when the trip meter says 160 miles on my 4.8 gallon tank I better stop real soon. Knowing I can't really get 4.8 gallons in it I know I probably have less than 30 miles left. I never took one out or looked at the parts diagram for it but what I have seen in the tank on a previous bike looked a crappy double rod and float system that becomes prone to sticking. My boat is the same way. My truck and car are seemingly accurate to almost the last ounce. Could be the small size of the tank on a bike coupled with endless sloshing or maybe the float system is oversized for the little space. I bet whoever develops one that is as accurate as a cars would sell a million of them.
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hetkehog (04-29-2016)
#3
You'll be better off using the tripmeter/ODO and deleting the entire in-tank float and arm assembly; it was the only solution I could come up with on my '03 Wide Glide.
I pulled the garbage out of the tank and cut it off, replaced the tank plug/plate, cut and capped the light wiring for the gauge cap, found some nice chrome covers and covered the fuel cap and the now dead fuel gauge cap; I was much happier then
As soon as I find the workaround on my '13 that junk is gone once again; a 'fuel gauge' has no business on a Harley but then again, I don't think fuel injection belongs on one either
I pulled the garbage out of the tank and cut it off, replaced the tank plug/plate, cut and capped the light wiring for the gauge cap, found some nice chrome covers and covered the fuel cap and the now dead fuel gauge cap; I was much happier then
As soon as I find the workaround on my '13 that junk is gone once again; a 'fuel gauge' has no business on a Harley but then again, I don't think fuel injection belongs on one either
#5
#6
Intermittent function points to an electrical problem. Could be the potentiometer on the sender, wiring/connections, or the circuitry in the gauge. I'd pull the sender and test the restance across the full range of travel first. Then double check all the wiring/connections. Last, source a known good gauge. The digital Kuyakyn gauge that came on my (used) worked pretty good. I didn't like its looks so I bought a used OEM analog to replace it. I haven't put it in yet, tho.
Personally, I don't care if it's a bit inaccurate. I just want it to appear to work. Besides, I can always adjust the float rod to get me accurate near the bottom of the tank.
Personally, I don't care if it's a bit inaccurate. I just want it to appear to work. Besides, I can always adjust the float rod to get me accurate near the bottom of the tank.
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