replaced front brake pads, then I lost all brake pressure. could not bleed for nothing. I used a vacuum pump on the bleeder, I could get fluid all the way through the line, through the caliper, but nothing from the master. so I bought a new master, NOPE still the same. I rebuilt the caliper, NOPE still the same. So I got a syringe and pushed fluid from the bleeder all the way to the master. I have pretty good brakes now. Could it be my line? Its stainless and "thought" that would be better than rubber. I was told actually its opposite. I don't know so I have to believe it I guess. any ideas???

 

Stainless wrapped brake line is better because some of the rubber brake line swell under pressure is minimized. Did you change your brake line the same time you changed your pads? If you did, you introduced air in your system. You did use the correct DOT brake fluid didn't you? My 02 and 05 Dynas use DOT 5 fluid. You could also put a heavy rubber band on the front brake lever overnight, the master cylinder will be open and air in the system usually goes up to the reservoir Check the fluid level and pressure in the morning. Sometimes this will work.

 

On my '03 Wide Glide I replaced the front caliper, brake lines, brake pads, rotor, and master cylinder; they still were crap. I could pull the lever almost to the grip under threshold braking. I always believed it was the DOT 5 fluid, I never got anything more than a spongy front brake lever; I did everything I could to get a decent front brake but it was still soft and squishy. To this day I believe it was the DOT 5 fluid, HD ran away from that stuff for a reason...

 

Apart from being exceedingly patient and persistent, I've had good luck removing the calipers from the bike and raising them as high as possible during bleeding to help that air float out.

Some things I've found helpful over the years...there is no one method I've found that works in all cases. (I've never tried pressure bleeding)
-Keep the reservoir cover in place during bleeding. (Check level often)
-Consider check valve bleeder screws when one-person bleeding.
-Try various speeds of press and/or release.
-Try a long pause at full press. (Press, pause, release)
-Try a long pause at full release. (Press, release, pause)
-Give it time. A night to rest seems to help the air coagulate. Might take 5+ sessions over a week...
-The two-person method (with a good partner and communication) seems to work best for me.

Silicone is a bitch. It holds on to air. I've done some casting with silicone and you have to put it in a vacuum chamber to get the air out or the cast parts come out porous.

 

Yes I've used vacuum pressure. Worked very well. Well the pump worked very well I guess. Just seams weird I guess. A harley tech told me he seen it numerous times a braided line will collapse before the rubber. I don't know so I guess I will believe him. The brake line is the only thing I didn't replace.
And for the dot 5, harley went to ABS brakes and dot 5 don't work with that.

 

Exactly. HD needed to move away from DOT 5 because it's aeroscopic and holds gas in suspension. I suspected it was that aeroscopic property of DOT 5 that contributed to the spongy front brake lever. You could bleed and bleed but the lever would not firm up.

 

This has always worked for me as well.

 

The strange thing about this is spongy brakes were never an issue with the single piston calipers. It became a problem when MoCo switched to the 4 piston calipers. I don't believe that DOT5 fluid is the primary cause.