So lately my rear brake just doesn't seem right. I seem to really have to press pretty hard to get some response. Without taking them off, they seem to have decent pad left (only 9000 miles). I went ahead and took the caliper off to really get a look. I loosened the pad pin then removed the slider pin and mounting bolt and pulled the caliper off the disc. If I didn't leave the pad pin in loosely threaded, the pads would have just fallen out on to the ground. Is this normal, or should the pads have been secured in some how? It's a 2015 model.

I did check the reservoir but I do not see any fill line to gauge if it's low. I also do not see any fluid leaking anywhere, which is why I am checking the pads.

 

Normal; the tabs on the front of the brake pads slide on each side of the silver torque clip and in to the notch on the caliper bracket when you install them. I'm sure you've already figured it out but be certain you use a 12 point socket or wrench on the pad pin; a 1/4" will cheat on HD's metric pad pin nicely

The rears are rather ineffective with only 2 pistons on one side, the inner pad sort of hangs out so the pads will wear unevenly with the outer/piston side pad wearing quicker. I've had better results with the rear brake using Lyndall #7257 Z+ and Gold+ pads and keeping the fluid fresh but your front brake is your primary weapon

 

Thanks TCC. I did figure it out this morning when I put the pads back on. Interestingly the pads are tapered from top to bottom (top being the thinner part). They do still have plenty of life left though. I agree they definitely aren't sensitive, but they definitely seemed stronger at one point. The fact that they are tapered the way they are I may take it in tomorrow because I don't know what that tapering means. I still need to take it for a spin after re-installing and I'll see how they feel. Thanks again for responding.

 

My rear brake is the same way. Its pretty much useless. It may be the weakest single brake I've ever seen. It reminds me of some of the old drum style brakes I had on some beaters back in the day.

Luckily the front makes up for most of it.

 

The only real solution on the HD rear brake is to keep your master bled and the fluid fresh and swap out the pads; I think of the rear pads not in miles but rather in time. I do practice slow speed motor officer parking lot exercises slightly dragging the rear; I also practice threshold braking, and I'm an absolute trail braker in the corners so I just see those rears as the price of doing business and change them out and bleed and flush the fluid the moment I notice a diminishing return on the rear brake.

Luckily Lyndall Z+ pads are inexpensive and work amazingly better than the OEM pads

 

TwoSpot~

Try some isopropyl alcohol and wipe down your rotor swept surfaces.

 

Get the 99% stuff, not the 70% stuff.

 

TCC, I got a little more out of it by adjusting the pedal. But I think I'm going to try the Lyndalls you use. I do practice slow speed exercises from RLAP. I don't do too much threshold braking practice but I need to start. Thanks for the pad recommendation!

 

I love setting up the 'Ride Like a Pro' courses and practicing, there's a large school parking lot near where I live. Threshold braking practice is an absolute life saver; nothing else you can do to the bike comes close to the reaction when you're under heavy braking; start out in a parking lot, just like in the MSF course. I've found 2 fingers on the front give me better control. As you become comfortable you can increase your speed and be in higher gears. Knowing you can truly stop your motorcycle is priceless

Here's where I've been getting my Lyndall Z+ #7257 rear brake pads. $41.76 shipped, Amazon and Powersport Superstore for the win!

Edit: Forgot to mention, the front pads are #7256 when you want to change them out...

 

All I ever find is 100 proof.....weird





I'm going to try this on my front rotor. I get some squeeling from it during lite braking.