I installed new bars on my FXDLS, Wild1 Psycho's 8" rise, thinking there would be enough slack since I was using 3" riser extensions on the factory 5" risers, but I guess the stock 5" risers are a little short. My clutch cable, while ok, is a little tight for my liking. On full right lock, it pulls pretty tight. Granted I don't do full lock much, but I don't want to rip it out. So I think I need to install a longer cable. I expect I only need 4 or so inches, but I'll probably go 8" over stock to give it a little slack.

Question is, how tough is the job. Looking at the manual it doesn't seem to complicated, with the biggest hassle being the potential need to drop the pipes. I read somewhere that you can grind down an allen wrench to fit, but then getting a torque wrench on will be tough too.

Any thoughts?

And, anyone know the length of the stock Low Rider S cable?

 

8" over stock is a lot. Too much slack looks goofy, in my opinion. I ran a string along the length of the cable, taping it occasionally to hold it in place, then measured the string so I knew how long my cable was.

Changing the cable isn't hard at all. Worst part as you suspected is removing the exhaust to get the trans cover off (you might not need to with your exhaust, but I'm guessing you will)

Go with Barnett cables.

 

Not tough at all. I can't remember if I needed to pull the ball and ramp to get the cable off the yoke, tho. I seem to recall that snap ring being kind of a big beast. No big deal if you have the right ring pliers, obviously.

Don't forget the cover gasket and cable o-ring.

 

its an easy job, im running +8 with my 14" apes and its a perfect fit.

 

Might as well install an MRC clutch arm extension while you have it apart.

 

I just did mine, pretty easy.(one man job) You'll lose all the tranny fluid when you pull the cover,, and stuff some rags under the cover when you take it off, even with the fluid drained there's still a couple of tablespoons full trapped in the cover that will spill (messy). And you'll need a decent C-ring pliers,, a cheap one isn't tough enough for the big C-ring(Retaining ring) holding the ramp in place.

 

I can get a regular socket on 4 of the 6 bolts, but the bottom two will need a cut off Allen key, which means no torquing. Which I don't like. But check this out!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A32R3TUZ3HYUGD

Pretty neat. Since its direct drive I expect the torque value would be constant. If I could get the right size hex key in there it would probably work. But I'd probably end up pulling the pipes anyway.

But this afternoon when I came home I poked around under there and already gave about an inch of play by moving the cable routing a bit. I may try disconnecting the cable and routing it between the downtubes. If I can get another inch, I may not need to replace it. Nice.

 

also just did mine, and i'm a complete idiot- so you should be fine. but what JohnMn said is truth. I bought a cheap pair of snap-ring pliers from Lowe's and well, they snapped.

 

To prevent this I roll the bike (both tires) on a 2x4", then lean it over on the kick stand.
The fluid shifts to the left side, shouldn't be too much mess, works for me anyway when I swapped cables.

 

I did that anyway, I didn't like the way HD routes it crossing under the frame. I moved it to the right side above the cross brace. Then drilled a 1/4" hole in the cross brace for a small bolt and used this kind of cable clamp to hold it down and away from the voltage regulator;
http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/vinyl-dipped.php
Got one at the hardware store for a $1.89, the cable crosses over cleanly and you can still use the factory position/clips for the adjuster,, you can even twist those around a little bit to change position of the cable and give it a better angle.
Gonna be one heck of a bend though, trying that with the cable still connected to the cover//?
I don't think your torque issue with two bolts will be too big a deal, those bolts are only inch pounds and your getting to be a wrench,, you'll be able to go by "feel" using the other bolts torque value as a guide