Cutting front turn signal cables
#1
Cutting front turn signal cables
Guys,
Been searching but haven't found an answer yet.
I have a nighster handlebar with the turn signals under the switch housing., with integrated risers on my street bob 2007.
Wanna relocate these signals on the lower triple tree with adapter bolts.
Now I already have alot of slack in the cables (no more apes remember?) and was wondering if I could cut the turn signal cables, about 10 inches long, starting from the light.
That way I could pull the cable through the switch housing, put the turn signal on the adapter bolt, reconnect the wires and ziptie it to the back of the triple tree.
Does this make any sense?
I'm in no way skilled on a technical base so if I'm wrong... bare with me please.
Thanks
Been searching but haven't found an answer yet.
I have a nighster handlebar with the turn signals under the switch housing., with integrated risers on my street bob 2007.
Wanna relocate these signals on the lower triple tree with adapter bolts.
Now I already have alot of slack in the cables (no more apes remember?) and was wondering if I could cut the turn signal cables, about 10 inches long, starting from the light.
That way I could pull the cable through the switch housing, put the turn signal on the adapter bolt, reconnect the wires and ziptie it to the back of the triple tree.
Does this make any sense?
I'm in no way skilled on a technical base so if I'm wrong... bare with me please.
Thanks
#2
Humm, when I cut my lines on this bike the indicator lines came right out of the switch housing. Ive relocated indicators on earlier models and the line came from the tank frame and ran all the way up to the grips. If yours are like that then you should be able to pull the wires out of the bars or unhook it from the bar clips running along the edge. Once you know where you want to relocate them you can cut off as much as you want and re-solder the line. I hope what I said doesnt cause confusion.
#3
Humm, when I cut my lines on this bike the indicator lines came right out of the switch housing. Ive relocated indicators on earlier models and the line came from the tank frame and ran all the way up to the grips. If yours are like that then you should be able to pull the wires out of the bars or unhook it from the bar clips running along the edge. Once you know where you want to relocate them you can cut off as much as you want and re-solder the line. I hope what I said doesnt cause confusion.
So if I cut here, I can pull the signal lights off the switch housing and the cut cable just comes out?
The signal cable is in the protective sock, so I'd just have to get it out, reroute it an reconnect.
My line comes from the tank frame and runs all the way up to the grips.
#4
I do not follow what you are trying to accomplish...are you wanting to move the turn signals from the handlebars to the triple-trees?
Cutting wires to re-route them should be the last choice and only if no other option is available.
The wires to the lights do not connect to the switches in the housing. You can pull the harness out of the frame and take out the wires by removing the contacts from the connector and pulling the light with the contact and wires attached out of the plastic sleeve and then re-route them anyway you want without compromising the mechanical and electrical integrity of the wiring. Reinsert the contacts into the connector, tie back the excess wiring, push the wiring harness back into the frame and you are done...
...that is the professional way...or you can go shade-tree amateur and cut/splice...
There are several kits out there with the mounting hardware for moving the turn signals to the triple trees...
Cutting wires to re-route them should be the last choice and only if no other option is available.
The wires to the lights do not connect to the switches in the housing. You can pull the harness out of the frame and take out the wires by removing the contacts from the connector and pulling the light with the contact and wires attached out of the plastic sleeve and then re-route them anyway you want without compromising the mechanical and electrical integrity of the wiring. Reinsert the contacts into the connector, tie back the excess wiring, push the wiring harness back into the frame and you are done...
...that is the professional way...or you can go shade-tree amateur and cut/splice...
There are several kits out there with the mounting hardware for moving the turn signals to the triple trees...
#5
Maybe not "professional", but if I'm shortening the wire route by more than a foot or so, I'd rather cut out the excess and solder in a nice splice to keep the loom clean and compact. When possible, I keep the factory crimps and connections undisturbed and just cut out a wire section, so only one joint per wire. I understand the need for service loops. That's not what I'm talking about. Absolutely keep at least 6" for service, but having huge doubled-over bundles zip-tied inline is just a pain if you're trying to keep things compact like in a custom. I suppose it's no big deal if you've got tons of dead space, though.
Amend to say I'd totally support not hacking up a wire harness that's still under warranty. I almost never have equipment new enough to warranty so that's not even a thing I consider most times.
Amend to say I'd totally support not hacking up a wire harness that's still under warranty. I almost never have equipment new enough to warranty so that's not even a thing I consider most times.
Last edited by cggorman; 12-22-2016 at 09:19 AM.
#6
So the cable is in no way connected in the switch housing? It only runs through it in order to go to the turn signal?
In that case i could cut it, pull it out of the housing, relocate and then reconnect the wires in the cable to the part that goes to the connector in the frame.
Shortening the cable in the proces.
In that case i could cut it, pull it out of the housing, relocate and then reconnect the wires in the cable to the part that goes to the connector in the frame.
Shortening the cable in the proces.
#7
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#8
#9
Professional job. (except for the allen-wrench tool. A modified hack-saw blade works better. )
No splices to cause problems later and no extra wire to tie back.
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