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LRS rear sprocket

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  #11  
Old 01-14-2017, 10:11 AM
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Do you have the HD SM for this LR-S, are you going to do the work yourself?
 
  #12  
Old 01-14-2017, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Suede Blue Man
Do you have the HD SM for this LR-S, are you going to do the work yourself?
Yes I'm going to do myself and I do have the shop manual.
 
  #13  
Old 01-14-2017, 01:28 PM
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Should be a snap then but I'm confused on what it is exactly you're doing?
 
  #14  
Old 01-14-2017, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Suede Blue Man
Should be a snap then but I'm confused on what it is exactly you're doing?
I am reducing the gear ratio.

I probably will never be on the interstate with this bike. Nor will I be doing anything with it more than short hops to a friends house, restaurant, bike night, etc.

Maybe a tune and test night at the Drag strip or a track day at Jennings.

It seems to me, why go to the expense and beyond the Compensator Sprockets if what I am wanting to do is achievable through those sprockets.

Plus it is less expensive, so to me, why bother with a Belt Sprocket (Secondary) change.

From all that has answered my thread I will not be able to gain what I want with just a rear belt pulley change, I will have to change the front pulley as well.

So, why not just do what I have researched with the Compensator Primary Sprocket to get the results desired?
 
  #15  
Old 01-14-2017, 07:21 PM
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Here is the difference in Speed/RPM:

Raises RPM to achieve maximum performance eliminating lugging of motor
Changes stock 1.352 gear ratio to 1.5333 gear ratio
- 4th gear 70 MPH @ 3620 RPM to New 4th gear 70 MPH @ 4500 RPMs
- 5th gear 70 MPH @ 3042 RPM to New 5th gear 70 MPH @ about 3750 RPMs
- 6th gear 70 MPH @ 2570 RPM to New 6th gear 70 MPH @ about 3250 RPMs
 
  #16  
Old 01-14-2017, 09:16 PM
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Can't say as I remember folks talking about changing the compensator, seems it's mostly done with the front and rear pulleys. I put on the 30 tooth for a Tri-glide front pulley, rear is still OEM. I'd also like to try the 70 tooth rear pulley but I don't think I want to shorten the top anymore either.
 
  #17  
Old 01-14-2017, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by HotRodNut
Here is the difference in Speed/RPM:

Raises RPM to achieve maximum performance eliminating lugging of motor
Changes stock 1.352 gear ratio to 1.5333 gear ratio
- 4th gear 70 MPH @ 3620 RPM to New 4th gear 70 MPH @ 4500 RPMs
- 5th gear 70 MPH @ 3042 RPM to New 5th gear 70 MPH @ about 3750 RPMs
- 6th gear 70 MPH @ 2570 RPM to New 6th gear 70 MPH @ about 3250 RPMs
For your use~ short, slow trips, this is ok. But for longer higher speed blasts, it's counter productive. It uses more fuel thus shortening your range. It heats up the engine unnecessarily, and it wears out the top end prematurely.

Can't really think of any "real world" benefits to shorter gearing.
(Unless your name is Peewee Gleason, and you make your living by posting low ET's on bikes for manufacturers...)
 
  #18  
Old 01-15-2017, 03:32 AM
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Sounds like a perfect Candidate for converting to a chain. Looks cool and makes swapping gears a lot less hassle. 👍🏻
 
  #19  
Old 01-16-2017, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by NORTY FLATZ
................
Can't really think of any "real world" benefits to shorter gearing....)

Quicker acceleration, more thrills, more smiles ....... nuff said.
 
  #20  
Old 01-16-2017, 05:46 PM
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I'd do the triglide 30T if I were you. Unless your looking to rip wheelies all the time, then go chain. Otherwise the belt setup is good.
 
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