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Low Rider S - Battery Trouble?

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  #21  
Old 01-20-2017, 12:45 PM
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I think that your whole problem stems from the fact that you never took the bike out for an extended ride over your one month hiatus or that you never kept the bike on a battery tender while the bike was sitting in a static position. I think that the security system on the bike drained the battery all the way down to nothing while it was sitting. And once the battery gets into that state of charge, the battery is pretty much now a door stop.
 
  #22  
Old 01-20-2017, 01:13 PM
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A new Harley alarm draws so little mAmp load when it goes to sleep, the speedometer head draws that small amout. That is truely little concern. The battery probaly was defective if the cable were not loose and the short OEM cables are big enough as. They will take way more load then see on a bike.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; 01-20-2017 at 01:15 PM.
  #23  
Old 01-22-2017, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
A new Harley alarm draws so little mAmp load when it goes to sleep, the speedometer head draws that small amout. That is truely little concern. The battery probaly was defective if the cable were not loose and the short OEM cables are big enough as. They will take way more load then see on a bike.

i agree, but if you keep the fob near the bike its gonna constantly keep checking and unlocking the alarm, as soon as i put the fob on the other side of the garage instead of my tank pouch my cold starts have been much happier
 
  #24  
Old 01-22-2017, 01:07 PM
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Reckon, ya gotta ride yer bike! A healthy battery loses 1% of charge per day. And that's for a "healthy" battery! Ya gotta "cycle" yer battery to keep it going.

Dudes that don't ride, buy 2 batteries per year. Don't be this dude.

Dudes that ride the crap out of their bikes, have batteries that last 7-8-9 years. Be this dude.

I know, I know, easier said than done. Just do what you can.

A battery tender helps but isn't a "cure."
 
  #25  
Old 01-22-2017, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
A new Harley alarm draws so little mAmp load when it goes to sleep, the speedometer head draws that small amout. That is truely little concern. The battery probaly was defective if the cable were not loose and the short OEM cables are big enough as. They will take way more load then see on a bike.
You'd be surprised just how much the security system will draw the bikes battery down over a 5, 6, or 7 week period of sitting still. It's not like a car battery than can go for a few months.
 
  #26  
Old 04-05-2017, 07:45 AM
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Default Battery Died after a short ride

I'm feeling the love in this thread. I can say that the stock set up on this bike struggles with starting the 110 after any battery drain. Just doing the V&H FP3 and pipe had me click the bike on as I loaded the map into the FP3. I started the bike after that 3 minute walk through working through the application set up and it BARELY started. Here is the startup video.


I have been riding the bike throughout the winter and it started no problem. Yesterday I took it 7 miles to get the 2017 inspection sticker done. I started it at that shop and rode it 7 miles back home. When I stopped at home I realized I had to be somewhere and tried to start the bike again. It labored and barely started. As I rode it down the street I decided to shut it off and see if it was just a fluke and tried to restart it while going about 30mph. No dice. I put the thing into 2nd at about 25mph and tried to bump start it. LOL Ya. No dice. The rear locked up like a stunt rider backing it in. I pulled the clutch and tried 3rd but ran out of speed and realized I now had to push my bike home about 1/4 mile. Dumb ***!

I think the drain on these 110's on start up is really are hard on the batteries and they don't recover from that deep drain of amps quickly. I'll be testing my battery today. I used to own a Buell and it was the same issue with it struggling to start. I finally put in a Shorai and the problems stopped. Lithium batt's have a much higher cranking amp. It lasted a long time as well. I may do the same if this thing continues to labor on start ups.
 
  #27  
Old 04-05-2017, 01:07 PM
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Sorry but I laughed at the summarized version of the original post. HA!
 
  #28  
Old 04-05-2017, 04:25 PM
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I ągree that the 110 is under "batteried" and under "startered" from the factory. It's the same starter as in the rest of the Dyna's only it's turning a bigger motor. I think that extra load draws extra power from the battery. I looked into the high torque HD starter, but it won't fit with ABS. I also agree that the parasitic draw is probably enough to kill the battery after a month. Dead flat, no, but no start maybe. Perhaps it was low when it was put away and the month was the nail in the coffin.

I finally got an outlet to use a tender a couple months ago and it really helps.

I put 12ga wires and a Yuasa battery in mine and while it doesn't spin like Tin Cup's seems to, it helped. Retarding the starting timing -4 deg on my map also has helped starting a lot. Hot starts are still tough, but I'm getting used to it.
 
  #29  
Old 04-06-2017, 03:02 AM
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It's cooled down a lot in Sydney so my hot start issues are not as bad, But I'm convinced these 110's are really underbatteried (is that even a word lol)

I ride probably 4-5 days a week too, on tender or not doesnt make a difference.

With the 117 it's even worse from all reports.
 
  #30  
Old 04-06-2017, 06:42 AM
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I'm starting to think the "S" is for Sucka. They need to come out with an "SS" or "**** Straight" version. Hard to believe HD didn't see any of these issues. All joking aside I'd be pissed and probably would sell it. Hell,their not even MY problems and I get mad just hearing about em. It's BS really.
 


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