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True track or predator

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  #21  
Old 02-27-2017, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by adm
But also, some (many?, most?) people have no wobble whatsoever on their Dynas. Myself included.

Having said that, when my stock mount shows signs of wear it will be replaced with a Predator.
+1 My bike ran laser straight before the wreck. The mounts are still 1999 originals. I'm planning on replacing them while I've got it torn apart. Predator up front. I don't like the design of the tru track. It's ugly. Not sure about the rear yet.
 
  #22  
Old 02-27-2017, 12:09 PM
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I installed True track front and rear, and the Front made the ride feel more solid, then I installed the rear just for piece of mind, in my opinion, I would snap up the true track front the op has for sale, as you cannot buy True track front only, they are sold in pairs, however you can by Sputhe front and rear only, and in my opinion both work as well, then the Predator well I have mates who swear by it if you need to change Motor mount on the front.
 
  #23  
Old 02-27-2017, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by F86
Interesting. I never noticed this before.
I think it may be new because I also don't recall seeing this when I was researching it in the fall.
 
  #24  
Old 02-27-2017, 01:55 PM
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Do "extended shocks" allow more compression travel that could have the swingarm hit the standard bracket? I can't think of anything else that would warrant a change.

(Howard is building me some slightly longer shocks with like 93mm stroke...but soft springs so my laden ride height will remain stock. I wonder if this become an issue for me...)
 

Last edited by cggorman; 02-27-2017 at 01:58 PM.
  #25  
Old 02-27-2017, 05:19 PM
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FWIW I have a predator up front on MY '13 FXDC and it made a very positive difference. I have tried to contact Sputhe to buy just the rear a blue million times and even got someone there on the phone, one time, after calling at LEAST 100x's. Told me to send an request via email, sent around 2 dozen over the course of a few months and never once got a single response. For those of you running a Sputhe, where did you buy it?
 
  #26  
Old 02-27-2017, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by cghorr01
FWIW I have a predator up front on MY '13 FXDC and it made a very positive difference. I have tried to contact Sputhe to buy just the rear a blue million times and even got someone there on the phone, one time, after calling at LEAST 100x's. Told me to send an request via email, sent around 2 dozen over the course of a few months and never once got a single response. For those of you running a Sputhe, where did you buy it?
I bought mine directly from Alan Sputhe in 2012, Alan is a remarkable engineer but he is not a young man, I dont know if its the end of the line yet, but I haven't been able to get ahold of him either, my advice is if you can find a used set buy it. Classic American speed parts from the master's hand.





: Mike
 
  #27  
Old 02-27-2017, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by billib1954
I wouldn't upgrade the mounts on a 2014 motorcycle, wait until the stock one wears out.
Why wouldn't you worry about 14? Did something change on that year?
 
  #28  
Old 02-28-2017, 03:32 AM
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Thanks for all the input !
So far I'm still getting used to the bike, but I do push it and high speeds is normal, frequently hit 80-100, I want to keep the bike stock ride height. I know it'll never corner like my old gsxr but I want it to corner as good as possible.
I was looking into the predator because I can see the rubber on the stock mount " squishing " out around the metal plates almost like it's collapsing.
But then I thought of just replacing the stock mount and adding true track or posi trac which in my mind would help with keeping the mount from sagging as well.
 

Last edited by 14fxdl103; 02-28-2017 at 03:56 AM.
  #29  
Old 02-28-2017, 05:42 AM
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Please correct me if I am wrong, but I don't understand how it is even possible for the Sputhe or the True-Track front mount to prevent any type of sag. They are both a two piece mount system, one part connected to the solid frame the other connected to the mount at the solid engine mount point with the isolator between the points and both points are connected via a stabilizer link. This stabilizer link would prevent side/side movement of the front of the motor in the frame because it doesn't expand or contract once tightened. But, how would the ball joints on the lolly pop ends prevent any up/down movement caused by sag from the worn out rubber in the isolator?


I can see the minimal sag prevention that the Predator offers, once the rubber isolator in the Predator mount goes, the most one might get is an 1/8"-1/4" drop before the top part sits on the lower part, then one would have a simi-solid mount.
 

Last edited by blueangel73; 02-28-2017 at 05:44 AM.
  #30  
Old 02-28-2017, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by blueangel73
Please correct me if I am wrong, but I don't understand how it is even possible for the Sputhe or the True-Track front mount to prevent any type of sag. They are both a two piece mount system, one part connected to the solid frame the other connected to the mount at the solid engine mount point with the isolator between the points and both points are connected via a stabilizer link. This stabilizer link would prevent side/side movement of the front of the motor in the frame because it doesn't expand or contract once tightened. But, how would the ball joints on the lolly pop ends prevent any up/down movement caused by sag from the worn out rubber in the isolator?


I can see the minimal sag prevention that the Predator offers, once the rubber isolator in the Predator mount goes, the most one might get is an 1/8"-1/4" drop before the top part sits on the lower part, then one would have a simi-solid mount.
With the Sputhe or True Track the goal is to control the chassis movement and that's all. the isolators are consumable items like tires, isolators control vibration and maintain chassis alingment as long as the isolators maintain their shape, as they fail the first thing that's affected is chassis alingment. I believe that the front isolator has a lifespan of about 12K miles, the rear about 24K miles and should be replaced at that point before they fail, after all you don't ride your tires till they go flat...

: Mike
 
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