* HOW TO * under fifty bux *
#2072
01-04-2015, 12:58 PM
A bottle opener, find one you like, put it where you want. Invite your buds to the garage, mod the bike and crack cold ones. I found mine on amazon and put it my ECM cover on my street bob
Attachment 412316
Attachment 412316
Last edited by soldierbot; 04-02-2021 at 07:46 AM.
#2073
04-15-2015, 08:39 PM
1st Gear
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Sask Canada
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#2074
04-20-2015, 02:20 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Johannesburg South Africa
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#2075
04-21-2015, 08:17 AM
A bottle opener, find one you like, put it where you want. Invite your buds to the garage, mod the bike and crack cold ones. I found mine on amazon and put it my ECM cover on my street bob
Attachment 412316
Attachment 412316
#2076
04-28-2015, 11:03 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: USA
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#2077
05-01-2015, 01:08 AM
Does this still work?
Does this still work and will it work with dashcommand?? or are there any other apps it works with?
How to build a cable to connect your Harley to an OBDII Bluetooth Diagnostic Scanner.Prototype cost: $56.00. With the right cable: $44.00 plus my phone.
Use this with HarleyDroid, available at the Amazon AppStore/GooglePlay.
I've no idea if there's anything like it for the iPhone.
Lessons learned:
J1962F to open end 3' cable from obd2cables.com, ($9.95) instead of the 1-male to 2-female version I bought for $22.
I cheated and bought a one-male into two-female splitter, so if I screwed up I'd have another cable connector handy.
Cut the end off the cable, then strip the wire insulation off and separate the wires inside.
The colors in my cable didn't match the colors on the "standard" pinout, so I had to figure out which wire went to which pin.
You want pins 2, 4 and 5, and 16. See https://github.com/stelian42/HarleyDroid/wiki/HarleyDroid-cable for details.
Harley data port 16 pin J1979 connector
(ELM327)
------------------------------------------------
(x) 1 Not Used
2 ------------- ground ------- 4 and 5 (ground)
3 ------------- data ---------- 2 (J1850+)
4 ------------- +12V ---------- 16 (+12V)
Put your pins on the cables. I soldered mine, in addition to crimping, just because I'm **** that way.
Insert the pins through the soft-rubber seal, making certain that the right wire goes through the right hole. (Note the numbers) Push the pin in (using the wire) until it clicks, and the other end should be flush with the end of the connector.
Push the wedge connector into the hole in the end of the connector until it clicks into place.
The finished cable.
The port it needs to connect to is under the electronics cover on the left side of the bike, above the fuses but below the ECM (big) plug.
Like I said, use a longer cable, and dry-fit it before you cut. Mine is useless except for watching the tach spin up as I rev it on the stand. A longer pigtail, and you can route the cable through the electronics box and ziptie the ELM357 under the seat, in all the spare free space that's there.
The HarleyDroid site also provides a schematic and drawing for building an interface with a 9v battery backup, in case you want to start the log before you turn the power/ignition switch on.
I don't have the mount yet, but I'm thinking about mounting my Samsung Galaxy Nexus on the handlebars with a Ram mount. that will give me access to GPS, tunes, and a Tach/temp gauge ... and a camera, if I want video of the road going by. Useless around town, but knd of cool to have on the runs.
Use this with HarleyDroid, available at the Amazon AppStore/GooglePlay.
I've no idea if there's anything like it for the iPhone.
Lessons learned:
- Buy wire and the OBD connector parts from www.obd2cables.com. Hacking up a perfectly good cable just to "make sure I got the right end" was a waste. Buying the harley end (Deutsch) connectors from the dealer isn't bad.
- Make the pigtail longer. Much longer - it's easy enough to coil up excess, but it's danged difficult to stretch an extra inch out of it once it's soldered. Figure out the right length before you cut it off.
- Don't be afraid to ask questions. Editbrain gave me the crucial info I was missing to make it work on my 2011 FXDWG.
J1962F to open end 3' cable from obd2cables.com, ($9.95) instead of the 1-male to 2-female version I bought for $22.
I cheated and bought a one-male into two-female splitter, so if I screwed up I'd have another cable connector handy.
Cut the end off the cable, then strip the wire insulation off and separate the wires inside.
The colors in my cable didn't match the colors on the "standard" pinout, so I had to figure out which wire went to which pin.
You want pins 2, 4 and 5, and 16. See https://github.com/stelian42/HarleyDroid/wiki/HarleyDroid-cable for details.
Harley data port 16 pin J1979 connector
(ELM327)
------------------------------------------------
(x) 1 Not Used
2 ------------- ground ------- 4 and 5 (ground)
3 ------------- data ---------- 2 (J1850+)
4 ------------- +12V ---------- 16 (+12V)
Put your pins on the cables. I soldered mine, in addition to crimping, just because I'm **** that way.
Insert the pins through the soft-rubber seal, making certain that the right wire goes through the right hole. (Note the numbers) Push the pin in (using the wire) until it clicks, and the other end should be flush with the end of the connector.
Push the wedge connector into the hole in the end of the connector until it clicks into place.
The finished cable.
The port it needs to connect to is under the electronics cover on the left side of the bike, above the fuses but below the ECM (big) plug.
Like I said, use a longer cable, and dry-fit it before you cut. Mine is useless except for watching the tach spin up as I rev it on the stand. A longer pigtail, and you can route the cable through the electronics box and ziptie the ELM357 under the seat, in all the spare free space that's there.
The HarleyDroid site also provides a schematic and drawing for building an interface with a 9v battery backup, in case you want to start the log before you turn the power/ignition switch on.
I don't have the mount yet, but I'm thinking about mounting my Samsung Galaxy Nexus on the handlebars with a Ram mount. that will give me access to GPS, tunes, and a Tach/temp gauge ... and a camera, if I want video of the road going by. Useless around town, but knd of cool to have on the runs.
#2079
06-17-2015, 08:17 PM
Thought I'd share my plate and taillight. Both have been in place for a couple thousand miles.
All the hardware used if off the bike- free
Spray paint- I'm sure most of us have some
Hopefully I dont mess up the pictures, so here goes.
The plate bracket is the factory one, with the second half of the plate support taken off and painted black.
Mounted on the forward belt guard mounting tab, also reusing the bolt, washes and nut
Attachment 434277
Close up
Attachment 434278
Ran the wiring through the belt and up up the seat, ziptied it a wire running out of the ECM cover
Attachment 434284
As for the taillight, I only run that one light. Painted the housing and mounted it on the aft belt guard bracket. For the bolt I used a bolt from the front fender (i don't run the front fender) and cut it down to size and threw on a flat and lock washer i had laying around. Ran the wire down the swing arm and up along with the plate light wiring.
Attachment 434285
And the final product
Attachment 434286
Hope y'al enjoyed, and that the pics work
All the hardware used if off the bike- free
Spray paint- I'm sure most of us have some
Hopefully I dont mess up the pictures, so here goes.
The plate bracket is the factory one, with the second half of the plate support taken off and painted black.
Mounted on the forward belt guard mounting tab, also reusing the bolt, washes and nut
Attachment 434277
Close up
Attachment 434278
Ran the wiring through the belt and up up the seat, ziptied it a wire running out of the ECM cover
Attachment 434284
As for the taillight, I only run that one light. Painted the housing and mounted it on the aft belt guard bracket. For the bolt I used a bolt from the front fender (i don't run the front fender) and cut it down to size and threw on a flat and lock washer i had laying around. Ran the wire down the swing arm and up along with the plate light wiring.
Attachment 434285
And the final product
Attachment 434286
Hope y'al enjoyed, and that the pics work
Last edited by soldierbot; 04-02-2021 at 07:46 AM.
#2080
07-11-2015, 03:09 AM
Novice
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 15
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Luggage Rack Flag Holder
5 or so years ago I purchased a luggage rack mounted 3 small (6x9) flag holder from Mountain Motorcycles and it worked great but I wanted one that held 5 flags.
I went back to Mountain Motorcycles to see if they could make me one but there is a message on the website that it is closed due an illness of the owner (hope everything is ok).
I could not find anywhere to buy a similar multiple flag holder that mounted to the luggage rack and did not want to pay $50 to $70 each to get individual ones so I set about to make my own.
Here is the finished product, unfortunately I did not find this thread until after it had been built so did not take pictures during the build.
Here is how I built it:
1. I got some flat and round steel stock from Lowes and cut it to the lengths I wanted. 5 poles and a top and bottom flat stock part.
2. Drilled holes on the edge of the top flat stock for the rod/poles to fit in. Also drilled the 2 holes in the top and bottom flat stock for mounting to the luggage rack.
3. Threaded the top of the round rod for the top nut (important to do this before welding them to the flat stock)
4. Welded the rods to the flat stock at 90 degrees.
5. Smoothed out the welds, primed and epoxy painted the holder (if the paint does not hold up will strip it and have it chromed or powder coated)
6. Slide the flags on the poles using a zip tie at the bottom of each flag to prevent it from sliding all the way down the pole.
7. Put a rubber grommet and acorn nut at the top of the pole (the grommet or a flat washer is needed to prevent the flag from sliding over the acorn nut and blowing away, don't ask me how I know this)
8. Applied some foam rubber weather stripping to the flat stock to prevent scratching the chrome on the luggage rack and it is ready to mount.
Total Cost:
Flat and round stock from Lowes $10
Acorn Nuts $5
Rubber grommets $3
Zip ties, paint, bolts and weather stripping I had laying around.
For under $20 I now have the 5 flag holder that I wanted and it is easy to put on and take off as needed.
I went back to Mountain Motorcycles to see if they could make me one but there is a message on the website that it is closed due an illness of the owner (hope everything is ok).
I could not find anywhere to buy a similar multiple flag holder that mounted to the luggage rack and did not want to pay $50 to $70 each to get individual ones so I set about to make my own.
Here is the finished product, unfortunately I did not find this thread until after it had been built so did not take pictures during the build.
Here is how I built it:
1. I got some flat and round steel stock from Lowes and cut it to the lengths I wanted. 5 poles and a top and bottom flat stock part.
2. Drilled holes on the edge of the top flat stock for the rod/poles to fit in. Also drilled the 2 holes in the top and bottom flat stock for mounting to the luggage rack.
3. Threaded the top of the round rod for the top nut (important to do this before welding them to the flat stock)
4. Welded the rods to the flat stock at 90 degrees.
5. Smoothed out the welds, primed and epoxy painted the holder (if the paint does not hold up will strip it and have it chromed or powder coated)
6. Slide the flags on the poles using a zip tie at the bottom of each flag to prevent it from sliding all the way down the pole.
7. Put a rubber grommet and acorn nut at the top of the pole (the grommet or a flat washer is needed to prevent the flag from sliding over the acorn nut and blowing away, don't ask me how I know this)
8. Applied some foam rubber weather stripping to the flat stock to prevent scratching the chrome on the luggage rack and it is ready to mount.
Total Cost:
Flat and round stock from Lowes $10
Acorn Nuts $5
Rubber grommets $3
Zip ties, paint, bolts and weather stripping I had laying around.
For under $20 I now have the 5 flag holder that I wanted and it is easy to put on and take off as needed.
Last edited by soldierbot; 04-02-2021 at 07:46 AM.